AX-5 5th gear clip & collar repair without trans removal - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 143 Old 03-20-2012, 09:50 PM
Opihi59
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Ummmm, that'll buff out.................

As far as tranny goes, take a good look at whatever detritus comes out of the main case. If you don't have metal frags, then likely it is okay in there, especially if you can run thru the gears. Sounds like you did though if you were running it before. Replace those gears, and run it like you stole it. Actually, you did pretty much steal it at $300. I think you meant to post this photo as well. Make sure your shift hub slides between 5th and reverse smoothly, and replace those 2 gears. I'd replace the clip with new, but you can decide on whether or not you want to spring for the collar featured in this thread.




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #77 of 143 Old 03-20-2012, 09:56 PM
stompjrkz400
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ok, ive got the 2 gears ordered, i looked it over to check for more gear chunks, they all stayed in the back ( that i can see ) other than 5th the transmission was smooth, shifting to fast i would have a grind in lower gears, but i believe that was a clutch problem, before you think i stole the jeep for that price look this picture over, but im not complaining, the day i brought it home, i drove it out of a farmers field, where it had been sitting for 6 months, i lost the brakes, but then i decided to drive it up the pipelines, with the rear shackle basically rotted off the frame it somehow managed to hold up, so im excited to have it, thanks for the info and good nite.


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post #78 of 143 Old 03-20-2012, 10:08 PM
Opihi59
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Looks good to me. You can get new frame repair parts, start a new thread on that and I'm sure folks will chime in with all the various sources for these pieces, or you can replace whole frame from a Junk yard, or get pieces there. Welcome to the forum.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #79 of 143 Old 03-21-2012, 02:30 PM
stompjrkz400
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i need to replace everything on the frame, from the rear of the spring perch back, so im either going to fab it with 2x4 square stock, or find a junk yard frame, problem is yj's get torn apart so fast in the junk yard, there impossible to find ( where i live atleast )
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post #80 of 143 Old 03-23-2012, 08:45 PM
stompjrkz400
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5th gears in, hope i got it right, took me an hour to figure out where the stuiped lock bearing goes, .... good thing for a manual
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post #81 of 143 Old 04-04-2012, 10:29 AM
Bshearer25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJake View Post
That picture of my ground away gears will haunt me in my sleep for days to come
I know it's been a few years since your post, but I thought I'd share this and make you feel a little better about your gears. It doesn't look as bad in the picture as it really was. Half of the gear was completely shaved off. Also, the shaft had burn marks/grooves in it.
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post #82 of 143 Old 04-04-2012, 10:36 AM
stompjrkz400
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thats nasty! how did you get all the gear chunks out?, im worried that im going to put mine in and its just going to catch a stray piece and tear it apart again.
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post #83 of 143 Old 04-10-2012, 11:58 AM
Bshearer25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stompjrkz400 View Post
thats nasty! how did you get all the gear chunks out?, im worried that im going to put mine in and its just going to catch a stray piece and tear it apart again.
magnet and VERY careful cleaning! Just make sure you clean everything very good.
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post #84 of 143 Old 04-10-2012, 12:03 PM
stompjrkz400
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Thanks, thats how i did it then , then i filtered the old oil and flushed it through the trans a few times
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post #85 of 143 Old 05-16-2012, 08:55 AM
Matt The Hammer
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I finally got into my transmission. I lost 5th gear over 10 years and around 100k miles ago. Wasn't sure what I'd see in there when I opened it up. I have the 5th gear lock ring kit to install.

The instructions posted here made opeing it up pretty easy. I pulled the transmission out (doing the clutch too), so I'm working on a table.

When I opened the case, I was amazed to find 5th gear in mint condition. The snapped C-clip was in the bottom of the case in the oil that looked clean as ever (no brass, no water, just darker than when I installed it).

But I have a question. When pushing the 5th gear back into place, it kinda won't go all the way into place. It's binding up with the counter gear below. I'm afraid to push it too hard or tap it. It looks so good, it would break my heart to damage it now. Is there a trick to getting it back in place?

Here's the pictures - note that the brighter silver between the gear splines is just flash glare. The splines are all in amazing condition:




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post #86 of 143 Old 05-16-2012, 10:03 AM
stompjrkz400
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pulling the syncho is not hard, when i did my gear i changed both, it slides into place very easy without it.
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post #87 of 143 Old 05-16-2012, 10:52 AM
Opihi59
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Tap it on, there is a certain degree of interference fit. Make sure the splines on the inside of the gear didn't get rounded over somewhat from "idling" on the shaft, if so, they may need to be flied/ground off some. Very hard steel, so it can be difficult to do this. When you tap it on, stand the transmission up on end, use a wood block as a drift and drive on that. Don't concentrate on one point, move your drift around to alternate sides, etc. Make sure you rotate the shafts to keep the meshing teeth from binding against eachother. It should go on.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #88 of 143 Old 05-16-2012, 10:56 AM
Matt The Hammer
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Thanks. The inner splines seem ok. I could work it about halfway on with just finger pressure and rotating the shafts. I'll tap it on after work. Can't wait now for overdrive...

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post #89 of 143 Old 05-16-2012, 08:59 PM
Cherokid
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Is this my problem?

Hey All,
I think this may be my problem. Given the symptoms tell me what you think. Gears 1 thru 4 all feel normal. 5th has a heavier vibration than the others that varies heavy then light, heavy then light but only under load. If I'm in 5th and using engine braking 5th feels like the other gears. The "light" vibration in 5th under load is still heavier than the other gears. My jeep is a 4 cyl so ax5. Also worth noting, his jeep is 2 months new to me (an '89) and when I bought it I didn't notice any problem with 5th. After spending some time driving it I noticed a very slight vibration in 5th. After I removed the track bars it became VERY noticeable. I'm taking it camping this Summer loaded down with gear, mt bikes and God willing my sailing canoe so I don't want this to grenade half way across the Central Valley. Opinions appreciated!

Thanks,
Cherokid.
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post #90 of 143 Old 05-17-2012, 08:11 AM
Matt The Hammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
Tap it on, there is a certain degree of interference fit. Make sure the splines on the inside of the gear didn't get rounded over somewhat from "idling" on the shaft, if so, they may need to be flied/ground off some. Very hard steel, so it can be difficult to do this. When you tap it on, stand the transmission up on end, use a wood block as a drift and drive on that. Don't concentrate on one point, move your drift around to alternate sides, etc. Make sure you rotate the shafts to keep the meshing teeth from binding against eachother. It should go on.
This worked well. Thanks.

Would you know if you're supposed to use silicone when reassembling the case? I used a thin bead and torqued the case bolts to spec (27 ft-lb). I didn't fill the case yet, so if needed, I can open it again and scape out the silicone.

Googling - half say yes, half say no. The case had silicone when I opened it up. The FSM didn't make it clear about using it or not. Actually it mentions a gasket between the intermediate plate and the case.

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