[2yjs4me]

Can anyone tell me what the 2 lines that go into the Bellhousing on the drivers side are. I suspect that these are the speedo and tach cables, but they look kinda like brake line so I'm a bit confused. I just picked up this YJ and the speedometer did not work and the tach does. One of these lines is severed clean off (no sign of the other end) and the other line is rusted and I can't get it loose. So I figured that the one that was severed went to the speedo. Since I'm removing the Trans, it's gotta come off.. Any help would be appreciated.

[4.7stroker]

Those lines are for the clutch.
One from the master cylinder to the internal slave cyl, the stub is where you would bleed the system.
The tach is electronic and the speedo is towards the back of the tranny on the drivers side.

Dwayne

[2yjs4me]

Thanks, actually I figured that out prior to getting back to this thread but I appreciate it anyway. Would you happen know the procedure for bleeding the clutch line? I'm waiting on the Climer that I bought off ebay.

[H3RTCH]

Originally Posted by 2yjs4me

Thanks, actually I figured that out prior to getting back to this thread but I appreciate it anyway. Would you happen know the procedure for bleeding the clutch line? I'm waiting on the Climer that I bought off ebay.

If you want, I can write on here what it says in my Haynes Manual...

[chondamx]

Option one: with partner--partner depresses clutch pedal, you open bleeder screw and alow air/fluid to escape, retighten screw, partner releases clutch. Repeat until all air is out of line and a steady stream of fluid is present when bleeder is opened.

Option two: Buy a vaccuum bleeder and follow the instructions.

Option three: Connect long plastic tubing to bleeder nipple and run it into a container partially full of brake fluid--make sure the line is an inch or two underneath the fluid level. Open bleeder, depress the clutch and find something to keep it held against the floor until all air is out of system.

With all of these methods be careful not to allow the fluid level to drop too low in the master cylinder or you will have to start over, good luck.

[4.7stroker]

Originally Posted by chondamx

Option one: with partner--partner depresses clutch pedal, you open bleeder screw and alow air/fluid to escape, retighten screw, partner releases clutch. Repeat until all air is out of line and a steady stream of fluid is present when bleeder is opened.

Option two: Buy a vaccuum bleeder and follow the instructions.

Option three: Connect long plastic tubing to bleeder nipple and run it into a container partially full of brake fluid--make sure the line is an inch or two underneath the fluid level. Open bleeder, depress the clutch and find something to keep it held against the floor until all air is out of system.

With all of these methods be careful not to allow the fluid level to drop too low in the master cylinder or you will have to start over, good luck.

You forgot option 4.
Gravity bleed.
Just fill the res to the top, crack the bleed nipple and let it drip till you see no more air then then tighten the nipple.
I gravity bleed clutches and brakes, it works most of the time and is very good at removing all of the air without making more bubbles.

Dwayne

[chondamx]

This is true, i gravity bleed the clutch on my miata, however, its never worked on an internal slave AX15 for me, though. So as you can imagine, I didnt bother listing it

[2yjs4me]

thanks all. I've been using Option 1, seems to work well.. I do like the Gravity idea though, I may try that on my other toys..