AX-15 Internal to External Slave Cylinder Clutch line write up - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 11-14-2011, 03:35 PM   #31
humboldtcorrado
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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sorry to bring this back from the dead, but...

i'm getting ready to order my clutch line and adapters, but advanceadapters suggested to me on the phone that i get the 60" line because on the YJ's, the line routes over the brake booster... Some people on this thread state the 42" line is not long enough, and others say the 42" is perfectly fine. I don't want the hose real tight and strained, but i don't want an extra 18" of braided stainless line looped up under my rig either.

can i get some clarification on this before i place my order? i don't have a body lift or anything, so that's not an issue...

thanks!

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Unread 11-14-2011, 03:47 PM   #32
bigredcherokee
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@humboldtcorrado

From my original pictures it look like I ordered a 42" line and from what I can see from the second pic it looks like I ran it under the break booster. I will check for you when I get home I'm on the motorcycle today.
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Unread 11-14-2011, 03:48 PM   #33
Leans93
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I run the 42" line and I have a 1" body lift and mine fits fine. I also run it under the brake booster.
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Unread 11-14-2011, 04:21 PM   #34
humboldtcorrado
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awesome guys - i appreciate the quick responses. looks like i'll be good with the 42".
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Unread 08-03-2013, 12:27 PM   #35
fishadventure
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Resurrecting an old FAQ thread here I know. I learned a lot from this thread - thank you. Hoping for clarification on the clutch hydraulic hose:
Quote:
Originally Posted by pat8942 View Post
JMO but $75 for a hose and 3 fittings seems a little steep, for a few more dollars ($120) you could buy a pre-bled slave/master assy. and eliminate any headaches of air in the system.
I agree- $75 seems a bit tall. It would seem (since this is a common upgrade) that a simple adapter fitting for the slave-to-line would be made by someone? Is this available to anyone's knowledge? The braided line looks nice and is an upgrade over stock, but then again if it gets damaged it doesn't sound like NAPA on a Sunday afternoon could help me...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredcherokee View Post
...about the hose was that I wanted to reduce the number for breaks in the line so to ward off any other points of possible failure. I could have taken both lines and cut and spice them with presss fittings but I didn't want to run the chance of a leak or the plastic breaking...
So this is a plastic hydraulic line? It isn't plastic over woven metal over silicone core? So a collar/crimp/barb fitting isn't available?

I understand limiting the "points of failure" but I was hoping to stick with auto-parts-store availability for as much as possible for everything I can't weld, modify, or fabricate out of my tool box. If I didn't have a budget and/or I was racing I would just order two like OP did and be done with it.

Parts availability: Makes me wonder if I couldn't make up hardlines out of brake line and use an over-the-counter flexible brake line from body to the bellhousing. I have bulk line and double- and bubble-flaring tools. I am making up a binder of my parts, part numbers, and donor sources for future reference so maintenance/breakage issues won't require reinventing the wheel LOL and I am trying to stay away from custom or one-off parts like I said.

Newbie questions- I hope I don't sound too ignorant here. Just planning for my 4.2 install into my '91YJ in a couple of weeks.
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Unread 08-03-2013, 12:47 PM   #36
19Mike95
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Man I wished i had read this sooner... Never had owned manual transmission and learned to put a master And slave in in about 45 minutes. And about a 30 minutes the second time the hardest part is gettin the darn pins out. But a nail and a hammer works charms for that
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Unread 03-12-2014, 08:54 PM   #37
metalflake
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Thanks for the info and great pics. I have new master and slave cylinder but since it seems there is still air in the line (bled twice) then I must need that hose. Hard to find for 1991 Yj. I'll be calling Advance Adapters first thing in the morning. Hope to let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.
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Unread 11-14-2014, 06:51 AM   #38
YJRob89
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Trying to revive an old thread. I perform an internal to external slave swap on my 1989 jeep yj. I installed a new clutch for a 1989 jeep yj, new bearing, fork, bearing retainer, and bell housing from a 1995 wrangler, and a new master/slave kit. Now I cannot put the jeep in gear while it is running. I thought it was the new master and slave so I bought another but I still have the same issue. Both master/slave were for 94-95 wrangler. Any ideas what could be wrong? I here and feel the bearing touch the forks when I use my fingers and feel it touch even when I press the petal but it does not engage the or disengage the clutch?
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Unread 11-14-2014, 08:18 AM   #39
bigredcherokee
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Take the slave Cyl off leave the hose connected just unbolt it from the bell housing. Point the pushrod to the ground and slowly pump it leaving the push rod pointed to the ground if possible; it helps the air move up the line. Have someone ready up top with break fluid to watch for air bubbles and add fluid if needed.

I think you may have air in the line still.
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Unread 11-14-2014, 12:16 PM   #40
YJRob89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredcherokee View Post
Take the slave Cyl off leave the hose connected just unbolt it from the bell housing. Point the pushrod to the ground and slowly pump it leaving the push rod pointed to the ground if possible; it helps the air move up the line. Have someone ready up top with break fluid to watch for air bubbles and add fluid if needed.

I think you may have air in the line still.
Thanks for the response. I'm going to bleed it like you mention today there actually is a good YouTube video on how to bleed these precharged systems by perfection.

Last edited by YJRob89; 11-14-2014 at 12:33 PM..
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Unread 11-15-2014, 04:10 PM   #41
YJRob89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredcherokee View Post
Take the slave Cyl off leave the hose connected just unbolt it from the bell housing. Point the pushrod to the ground and slowly pump it leaving the push rod pointed to the ground if possible; it helps the air move up the line. Have someone ready up top with break fluid to watch for air bubbles and add fluid if needed.

I think you may have air in the line still.
I bled the line today I did get air out of the line but I still have the same problem with the clutch not disengaging.

The bearing makes contact with the forks, when installing slave i need to push really hard to get it in and bolts started. I make sure the pushrod is in the correct recess on the fork. I measured 2 inches from fork recess to edge of bell housing when bearing contact pressure plate. Slave cylinder pushrod goes out to 3 1/4 inches. What am I missing?
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