[Reverb]

I'm going to renew the head bolts when I do the 4.0 head conversion. I've found some ARP bolts that state they are for 258's, but they say they are 1/2 inch. Aren't all 258's 7/16?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-112-3601/

[Reverb]

Where can I get replacement bolts from? I've looked at Quadratec and Morris 4x4 and cant find any.

[nickdestfino]

hesco has every thing you need. dont waste money on arp ****. my head came from clearwater cylinder head off ebay. Awesome company, no complaints. Couple things to watch for. You'll need 1x1x1/4 washers for installing the header with factory intake manifold. You run different plugs. I don't have the plug number in front of me , but can get it if you need Depending on the setup you run pushrod length comes into question. I had to grind the inner corner of the factory intake manifold to clear the header tube. You won't the the big power gain till you ditch you BBD carb. The head is a major improvment though, worth every penny. Hope this helps.

[Reverb]

I'd forgotten about hesco. Going to keep my weber and stock manifold until next month then I'll get a holley and offy or Clifford intake.
Going for the comp cam and 4.0 push rods.

[nickdestfino]

I ran the weber 38 dgas with cam with the head conversion. the thing runs awesome. not sure which holley your planning on running, but I had a 500chm 3 barrel at one point that would flood on almost any incline. had to go back to factory till I got the weber. Running injection modeled after the 93 now.

[nickdestfino]

500 cfm i meant sorry

[Reverb]

Was it the comp cam 250/258? What length push rods did you use? Seems to be a bit of a gray area as clearwater keeps telling me to use 258's but other people tell me to use 4.0's as the pre-loading would be off.

[nickdestfino]

I used the stock push rods from the 4.2 . Can't remember the specs of the cam I'm running. The numbers for the cam look familiar. It was something I bought off ebay it's been a couple years and can't find the cam card. When you run the injection the computer resets its perimeters depending on the feed back it's receiving from the various sensors. Regardless of the modification the computer will adjust itself. I can say I researched this to no end and in the end it's no where near as complicated as it seemed. If you were anywhere close I'd let you drive mine to see how it runs. I did this in a day with the assistance of some beer and my brother.

[nickdestfino]

Benny at hesco is a wealth of knowledge on the specifics of this swap. I contacted him numerous times through my build. he will back up what I'm telling you as far as the parts and ecm for the injection go.

[Reverb]

Originally Posted by nickdestfino

Benny at hesco is a wealth of knowledge on the specifics of this swap. I contacted him numerous times through my build. he will back up what I'm telling you as far as the parts and ecm for the injection go.

Thanks dude. I'll contact him and ask a few questions.

[Reverb]

So, nobody stocks the standard head bolts apart from the dealership - and they want $8 a bolt!! ARP is cheaper!

[Smtty58]

Early 258s were 1/2" bolts, the changeover to 7/16 was around 1980.

[4.7stroker]

I cleaned and reused my old head bolts, if there is no visable damage reuse them.
It is not like the engine is making 400 hp it will be just fine.

Dwayne

[nickdestfino]

Hesco didn't have the bolts in stock? I have to disagree with stroker. Once a bolts been torqued to spec. and has been through countless hot and cold cycles you stretch and stress the steel. I've had a head bolt snap on me wen I was learning to work on motors. Don't even question it, you want even crush on your head gasket to insure proper performance and longevity of the project.

[nickdestfino]

It's one of those things where the bolts are probably fine , but for 50 bucks why chance it