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Unread 10-06-2005, 06:57 PM   #1
sentinal02
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Anyone use Loctite thread repair?

The story: noticed the jeep getting louder, so i figured the header pipe loosened up again. no big deal, been here, tightened that. Well, no dice. hmmm, ok, start hunting (this is sooooo much easier without the mechanical fan constantly blowing air around, lol). anyway, closer inspection reveals the lower front bolt on the exhaust manifold is loose, hence the really annoying exhaust leak noise. ok, go to tighten it up and as you may have guessed by now, all i get is spin spin spin. turns out someone fitted this hole in the past with a helicoil and i guess the vibrations finally finished off what little purchase it had left. guess that explains why that bolt was different the last time i did the manifold gaskets. Well, as it stands now I've got a loose manifold and a hole that's all but drilled smooth. I really don't want to take the whole manifold side of the engine apart to get my drill in there to retap the hole (9/16" course threads will thread in with a bit of tension, so i'd have to go at least 5/8" if i retapped) and the helicoil sizes i've found local are either too small (closest is the same size that was in there and is now too small) or would require more drilling to make it fit. anyway, I did find this product from Loctite that is supposed to act like an epoxy to refresh the threads. ie coat the bolt with this chemical, coat the hole with that one, thread in, let set, torque to spec. It says right on the box, good to 128 ft-lbs, +300°F. Now, my thinking is what have i got to lose, only $7. if it fails i'll be drilling, but hey, give it a shot right? just wondering if anyone's used this stuff before with any success?

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Unread 10-06-2005, 07:36 PM   #2
ginsy
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Sorry for this news, but I've worked at Loctite for the last 27 years. The thread repair will work fine at other things, but exhaust manifolds get much hotter than 300 degrees. You are going to be stuck with mechanical repair methods.
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Unread 10-06-2005, 08:22 PM   #3
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginsy
Sorry for this news, but I've worked at Loctite for the last 27 years. The thread repair will work fine at other things, but exhaust manifolds get much hotter than 300 degrees. You are going to be stuck with mechanical repair methods.
yeah, i kinda figured that. though the hole is actually in the head, not the manifold itself so i think i'll still give it a shot. not like i'm out big bucks if it doesn't hold and i'd just be back to square one anyway.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 10-07-2005, 10:32 AM   #4
Wif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal02
yeah, i kinda figured that. though the hole is actually in the head, not the manifold itself so i think i'll still give it a shot. not like i'm out big bucks if it doesn't hold and i'd just be back to square one anyway.
can you not retap the hole using an extension to get you in there ??
I'm positive the way you've suggested will NOT work .. vibration, heat, and sods law won't allow it to happen.
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Unread 10-07-2005, 11:23 AM   #5
Wildwil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal02
yeah, i kinda figured that. though the hole is actually in the head, not the manifold itself so i think i'll still give it a shot. not like i'm out big bucks if it doesn't hold and i'd just be back to square one anyway.
Hrmm the bolt holds the manifold to the head so it is touching the manifold and touching it at the hottest spot right where the hot gasses comes out. Also if you do try this and it dosen;t work when you go to drill you will have more crap in the hole in your way to have to drill out.
On another note if you have had a leak like that for a while 9 times out of 10 your gasket is blown out also so you will need to take every thing loos to put a new gasket in place.
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Unread 10-07-2005, 12:22 PM   #6
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Jeepster
can you not retap the hole using an extension to get you in there ??
I'm positive the way you've suggested will NOT work .. vibration, heat, and sods law won't allow it to happen.
the problem isn't getting the tap in the hole, it's getting a drill in there to get it reamed out to the right size for the new tap. i don't have a right angle drill with a 1/2" chuck, which is what it would take to have even a remote chance of getting in that hole without dismantling the whole right side of the engine. Wild raises a good point on the gasket though, but the gasket is only a few months old (had a leak in the rear that i let go too long as it tore the gasket to shreds, so i may end up replacing it anyway.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 10-07-2005, 02:44 PM   #7
Wildwil
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Well you could go to walmart get a drill (be careful to keep it in good shape) once your done it with if you want to get your money back take it back in the box with reciept. Think of it as a loan a tool program. They will take any thing back with the reciept just about.
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Unread 10-07-2005, 03:04 PM   #8
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildwil
Well you could go to walmart get a drill (be careful to keep it in good shape) once your done it with if you want to get your money back take it back in the box with reciept. Think of it as a loan a tool program. They will take any thing back with the reciept just about.
i have the right angle drill, but it's only got a 3/8" chuck. i can't find a bit in the right size for a 5/8 or 9/16" tap that will fit a 3/8 chuck. they're all half inch. looking in the local hardware store, they didn't have a RA with a 1/2 either so i seriously doubt walmart will have one. which means i need to use the 1/2" chuck drill that i have as well, but to do it i need to get some room in there. looking at it, i MIGHT be able to get it in there if i just remove the airbox and PS pump. but before that I've come up with one other thing to try. metric threads are somewhere between the 9/16 and the 5/8 diameters so i'm thinking i might be able to get an M14 bolt to thread in there liberal application of cutting oil and the willingness to lose a bolt or two cutting the new threads. gotta wait for the rain to stop and I'm gonna give it a shot.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 10-07-2005, 03:09 PM   #9
Wif
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or you could do what I did some years back .. grind the shaft (carefully to remain round) of a larger drill bit to fit the 3/8 chuck .. I still use this bit to this day ..
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Unread 10-07-2005, 03:49 PM   #10
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Jeepster
or you could do what I did some years back .. grind the shaft (carefully to remain round) of a larger drill bit to fit the 3/8 chuck .. I still use this bit to this day ..
hmmm, that might be option B. good thinking put it in the drill backwards and run it against a grind stone to keep it as even as possible.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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