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Unread 07-27-2014, 05:40 PM   #1
04WJny
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antiwrap trac bar

Im in the middle of fabbing up a ruffstuff antiwrap bar and dont want to proceed untill im 100% sure with what im doing. I have an 87 YJ SOA on stock 5 pack leafs and a tummy tuck. I built a crossmember to mount the shackle that came with my antiwrap kit but im unsure where to mount it. I have read that the best setup Is to keep the antiwrap bar long and low. My crossmember is a few inches forward of the leaf spring eye, I hope thats long enough. Ive read that the center line of the axle and the heim joint should be parallel to the driveshaft, is that true? Ive also read that it shoul be lower to prevent antisquatting

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In the process of putting in an 8.8, d30, 4.10's, SOA, and a homemade belly up skid
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Unread 08-10-2014, 10:15 AM   #2
Burlbook48
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Wow, no one replied to you? Here's a thread bump.

There is a lot of contradictory advice out there about anti-wrap bar design. Problem is, with our YJ's we are kinda stuck in where you can place it, and not sacrificing ground clearance. Unless you are going to move your muffler, it's gunna have to go on the driver's side. Shackle down means it's a rock magnet, shackle up means it's got more anti-squat.

Best I can tell you, with SOA and a stock 5-leaf, you are better off with one than without one. They work. Otherwise, you are looking at bent springs and a busted driveshaft u-joint.
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Unread 08-10-2014, 10:53 AM   #3
JeeperDon
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If you do the math on the forces, it would be better to have the bar on the right side of the Jeep, but that is nuts to get done with the muffler there. Mine is on the left side.

Your shackle position sounds long enough, but you didn't mention where side to side you put the shackle mount. My shackle mount is on the back edge of my (me fabbed) skid plate. Try to keep the whole bar as close to the middle as possible. My inner rear bracket is as close as I could weld to the carrier housing. I even slightly angled the bar so the shackle is even more toward the vehicle center.

As time passed and the springs settled, I revisited things to be sure the bar was not forcing the axle up or down while the Jeep is just parked. I like a nice neutral position, just slip the bolts in.
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Unread 08-11-2014, 06:49 PM   #4
Bong_Holyeo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04WJny View Post
Im in the middle of fabbing up a ruffstuff antiwrap bar and dont want to proceed untill im 100% sure with what im doing. I have an 87 YJ SOA on stock 5 pack leafs and a tummy tuck. I built a crossmember to mount the shackle that came with my antiwrap kit but im unsure where to mount it. I have read that the best setup Is to keep the antiwrap bar long and low. My crossmember is a few inches forward of the leaf spring eye, I hope thats long enough. Ive read that the center line of the axle and the heim joint should be parallel to the driveshaft, is that true? Ive also read that it should be lower to prevent antisquatting
I hope this helps, this is my ruffstuff antiwrap bar kit that i put together. I mounted mine to my barnes4wd skid plate not much further forward than what you describe.





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Unread 08-11-2014, 07:33 PM   #5
87TPIYJ
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You want to get the crossmember as close as possible to the skid. I looked all over and read before I finally installed mine. Longer and lower is always better. I also read leaning the Shackle back just a hair lowers the instant center. I have the exact same set up as you (TT, SOA, except I am using the crown HD (6 leaf) springs. I used 1/4" plate to drop the crossmember below the frame though so it is the lowest part of my underside. I figured it was close enough to the wheels not to be a big issue. The crossmember is bolted to the plate with some flanges I made. Here is some pics.







Note ruffstuff's supplier sent them wrong size bolts for the shackle and they went out in a few kits. They have since sent me the right length. So just check yours. Also I positioned the crossmember farther back so I could rotate the mounting tabs farther forward to lower it as much as possible without sacrificing length. Length is your most important variable. Closest to the pumpkin as you can get as well. Obviously I had 0 room in the passenger side. Hope this helps.
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Unread 08-11-2014, 08:10 PM   #6
Burlbook48
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Bong_Holyeo--- You used the larger bar for the bottom piece.

87TPIYJ--- You used the larger bar for the top piece.

Not calling either of you out, but Ruff Stuff sells the kit with the "larger bar" (2" diameter) labeled as the "lower bar" and the 1.75" bar labeled as the "upper bar".

How did you guys decide on which location to use the larger bar? Wouldn't it be stronger to deal with rock contact? Also, seems like the larger bar needs to be ground concave not only to fit the bushing housing, but the sides also need to be ground back to fit between the moon pieces that are also welded to the bushing housing.

Just asking. I'm in the process of building the Ruff Stuff kit to fit my new D60 rear axle , and I didn't want to assume anything before grinding everything to fit together.
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Unread 08-11-2014, 08:47 PM   #7
JeeperDon
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The lower bar is under compression when working, while the upper bar is in tension. The lower needs to be stronger/larger to not flex and bend.
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Unread 08-12-2014, 05:50 AM   #8
87TPIYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlbook48 View Post
Bong_Holyeo--- You used the larger bar for the bottom piece.

87TPIYJ--- You used the larger bar for the top piece.

Not calling either of you out, but Ruff Stuff sells the kit with the "larger bar" (2" diameter) labeled as the "lower bar" and the 1.75" bar labeled as the "upper bar".

How did you guys decide on which location to use the larger bar? Wouldn't it be stronger to deal with rock contact? Also, seems like the larger bar needs to be ground concave not only to fit the bushing housing, but the sides also need to be ground back to fit between the moon pieces that are also welded to the bushing housing.

Just asking. I'm in the process of building the Ruff Stuff kit to fit my new D60 rear axle , and I didn't want to assume anything before grinding everything to fit together.
Well they say one thing and then show pictures of the exact opposite.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWKIT.html
I never thought about it, but I did mine on top because most of the pics I saw floating around the internet had the top bar with the heim and the bottom angled in to the top. Also if I ever streched it would be easier to cut the bung out sleeve and make it a little longer. I can see the argument either way. Really I think you would be hard pressed to bend the bottom unless you bashed it on a rock. If you are worried about that then a couple of gussets should take care of any worries. So really I think it is up to you.

As far as grinding the larger piece. All you need to do is notch it to fit the bushing sleeve. I tacked everything together first. Then welded it all up so my welds around the DOM would not interfere with the crecent shaped pieces. Make since?
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Unread 08-12-2014, 08:44 AM   #9
JeeperDon
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Make sure your axle welds are strong. The axle brackets of the first one I did (and I'm just a home/garage welder) years ago just plain broke off. I got another bar kit a couple yrs ago and had buddy weld it on, a certified welded on a crew that builds those huge water tanks that whole towns use. That one tore out a bit at the top curve of the axle weld, which made the bottom points of the axle brackets actually bend inward and dent the axle tube a smidge.

I ended up repairing that myself. I put a 1/4" think 2"x2" plate (whatever the width dimension is to nicely fit between the brackets)at the rear side of the top points of the brackets. That way there is a full 2" wide welded edge to the axle tube that would have to be pulled out for the top of the bracket to separate again. Point is, go back to my first sentence.
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Unread 08-12-2014, 08:48 AM   #10
04WJny
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I want to thank everyone for the replys. However, i finished the antiwrap bar last week and had so.e time to test it out at Topless for Tatas last weekend. It worked great! Ill post some pics of what i did so i can hopefully help some others.

I purchased the standard antiwrap bar kit from ruff stuff as well as a length of 1.75" x .250 wall tubing long enough to reach across my frame. I purchased 2 pieces of 1/4" x 12" x 4" hot rolled steel strip from lowes for my crossmember brackets.





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2004 WJ I6 4.0L DD
1987 YJ I6 4.2L Weber 34 DGEC carb, 4in RC, Custom 1 inch BL,Custom Steering box skid, homemade rear bumper with tire carrier, 33x12.5x15 KM2's on
Cragar Soft 8's, and a few other things
In the process of putting in an 8.8, d30, 4.10's, SOA, and a homemade belly up skid
[CENTER][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/sloooooow-blue-yj-build-1234350"]My YJ Build[/URL][/CENTER]
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Unread 08-12-2014, 09:05 AM   #11
JeeperDon
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Ryan, You should find the Long Island Off-Road guys. My old east coast club and I wheeled with them all over the northeast for 14 years until I moved out west.
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Unread 08-12-2014, 10:17 AM   #12
04WJny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
Ryan, You should find the Long Island Off-Road guys. My old east coast club and I wheeled with them all over the northeast for 14 years until I moved out west.
Thanks Don,

Ill have to reach out to them. Ive been wanting to join a club like that for a while so i can try out some different trails. Im pretty sure one of my friends joined a little while ago. Thanks!
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2004 WJ I6 4.0L DD
1987 YJ I6 4.2L Weber 34 DGEC carb, 4in RC, Custom 1 inch BL,Custom Steering box skid, homemade rear bumper with tire carrier, 33x12.5x15 KM2's on
Cragar Soft 8's, and a few other things
In the process of putting in an 8.8, d30, 4.10's, SOA, and a homemade belly up skid
[CENTER][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/sloooooow-blue-yj-build-1234350"]My YJ Build[/URL][/CENTER]
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Unread 08-12-2014, 08:29 PM   #13
Burlbook48
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John, Ryan, Thanks for the replies.

Don, as usual, you added something everyone else missed. Point taken on the welds. In fact, the top of the welds on my D44 anti-wrap bar's axle brackets were ripping in the exact spot you mentioned, and they were done by a pro shop.

I'll be adding reinforcement to mine like you mentioned.
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