[J-Quad]

Fellas,

It's a '95, 2.5L, 5-speed. Just the other day I went to drive it and it wouldn't start - just crank. I came back to it later that same day & it started just fine.
(Note: the Check Engine Light did NOT come on.)
I figured since it had been over a year since it had a tune up, this was a sign... So I replaced the sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, distributor cap, rotor and fuel filter.
The 2.5 then seemed happy - and ran fine......for about a week or so.

Then last night will cruising leisurely & calmly (~40mph) down a back (gravel) road, just taking in the cool evening air, the engine just died. I down shifted and popped the clutch, but no go. We happened to be a the top of a slight hill, so my wife & I pushed it & got it rolling down the hill. With the key on, I shifted it to 2nd, and popped the clutch a number of times - not even a puff. At the bottom of the hill, the engine cranks over just fine, but there's no spark at the plug wire. It was time to get out the strap and call a friend.....

I do NOT have a code reader.. maybe it's time to buy one. My Haynes manual says to test the coil....
Where would you start your diagnosis?

Thanks in Advance for any and all help!
J-Quad

[RustyzChopShop]

i sometimes have the same problem.

[ddrongowski]

Check the camshaft position sensor connector (it is the 3 wires that come out of the distributor), make sure it is fully connected. I had to zip tie mine together as the plastic lock had broken. Also check the camshaft position sensor connector (it is on the drivers side in the engine compartment, the sensor is on the top of the transmission above were the flywheel would spin, the connector is on the intake manifold. Both of those sensors would stop spark (from personal exprerience).

[J-Quad]

Originally Posted by ddrongowski

Check the camshaft position sensor connector (it is the 3 wires that come out of the distributor), make sure it is fully connected. I had to zip tie mine together as the plastic lock had broken. Also check the camshaft position sensor connector (it is on the drivers side in the engine compartment, the sensor is on the top of the transmission above were the flywheel would spin, the connector is on the intake manifold. Both of those sensors would stop spark (from personal exprerience).

Thanks for the reply, ddrongowski!

Well, as you suggested, I followed the three-wires coming out of the distributor over to the first connection, appoximately 6 inches away, it was kinda looped around & behind the distributor. It seemed to be intact and secure. I found what I believed to be the second three-wire connector fastened to the intake manifold on the driver's side of the engine, then it leads down to the transmission. It also appeared to be intact and secure. Do both of those connectors lead to/from the same Camshaft Position Sensor?

Now I did NOT pull either of them apart and then re-attach them.... should I?

I guess I'll remove the coil and test for proper primary resistance...or ?

Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

Thanks in Advance, Guys!
J-Quad

[ddrongowski]

Originally Posted by J-Quad

Thanks for the reply, ddrongowski!

Well, as you suggested, I followed the three-wires coming out of the distributor over to the first connection, appoximately 6 inches away, it was kinda looped around & behind the distributor. It seemed to be intact and secure. I found what I believed to be the second three-wire connector fastened to the intake manifold on the driver's side of the engine, then it leads down to the transmission. It also appeared to be intact and secure. Do both of those connectors lead to/from the same Camshaft Position Sensor?

Now I did NOT pull either of them apart and then re-attach them.... should I?

I guess I'll remove the coil and test for proper primary resistance...or ?

Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

Thanks in Advance, Guys!
J-Quad

No, the camshaft position sensor is under the distributor cap, and the wires go to the ecu.


The crankshaft position sensor sits off center (on the drivers side) above the flywheel (it is bolted to the transmission bell housing) and also goes to the ecu.


Couple of other things to check is the power fuses, fuses under the dash, and the connector to the firewall connector plug and the connector to the ECU.

[J-Quad]

Ahhh,,, the second sensor is the CRANKSHAFT position sensor.... gotcha.

Hey, the diagram & pic are a big help for me! A Thousand Thanks!

Well, I've already checked out the power fuses in the 'fuse box' next to the battery. No fuses or relays visibly smoked.

I will check the fuses under the dash, and the connector to the firewall connector plug and the connector to the ECU.

THANKS!!

j-Quad

[idaholtby]

You do not need a code reader to check for stored codes. If you have a no start condition, then you should have codes stored that will likely point you to the problem. Check for codes by cycling you ign sw off/on, off/on, off/on, and stay in the on position (do not go to start). The check engine light will then flash any codes that are stored. Typically 12,33,and 55 are stored in a properly running rig and should be ignored.

[J-Quad]

Fellas,
During my inspection of the visible connectors at the firewall and the fuses under the dash (although I couldn't see much of the connection to the ECU since it's located mostly behind the windshield washer reservoir), I noticed that the rubber-coated coil had a split in its bottom. It was about 2" long and 1/8" wide, so I figured that was a bad thing. Although it may not be my immediate problem, it isn't a good thing to just ignore, as it would likely allow water/rust to infiltrate the coils internal wiring. So I removed the coil and replaced it with a new coil from the auto parts store. Still nothing - just cranking.

I tried the horn and it works.
I pulled the ASD relay and substituted it with the horn relay, nothing - just cranking.
I pulled the fuel pump relay and substituted it with the horn relay, nothing - just cranking.

By now the battery was starting to become worn down, so I put the trickle charger on it.

I disconnected the coil two-wire plug and checked for power (with a 12V test light). Both wires indicated no power with the key on or off.

I turn on the key and don't hear the fuel pump. Although fuel does spurt form the fuel test port (shrader valve?) I wouldn't say it's 40psi worth....

A friend comes over and suggests that his '94 Ford F150 just had similar symptoms and it turned out to be some sensor located within his distributor.

I would have to guess that this would be the camshaft position sensor, as depicted in ddrongowski's diagram above?

idaholtby,
I did as you suggested and cycled the key switch from off/on, off/on, off/on and stayed in the on position during the third cycle but not to the start position..... No CEL flashing, no codes indicated. Nothing but the "BRAKE" light coming on/off during the on/off cycling.

Like most of us - I don't want to start throwing parts at it...like some sensor in the distributor, and I sure don't want to spring for a new ECU (!$$!) if it isn't the problem either.

So....... Guys,,,,,, what else can I check/do to find the problem?

J-Quad

[tazme695]

Do yourself a favor and replace Crank position sensor! Watch the gap when dropping in the new one! it should not touch the flywheel!

[Bigboyky]

When you did the key on/off, did the Check engine light come on? If not then it sounds like the computer.

[J-Quad]

Originally Posted by Bigboyky

When you did the key on/off, did the Check engine light come on? If not then it sounds like the computer.

Thanks for the reply, Bigboyky!

Nope. I've not seen the CEL come on for quite some time regardless of key position.

If I recall correctly, with my Ford Ranger, it comes on when I turn the key to 'start' then when the engine starts, the CEL goes out.....

Is a computer a common failure?

Yeah, it is a '95 and it does have 108K miles on it...

J-Quad

[J-Quad]

Originally Posted by tazme695

Do yourself a favor and replace Crank position sensor! Watch the gap when dropping in the new one! it should not touch the flywheel!

Thanks for the reply, Tazme695!

Would a bad CPS not throw any codes and not be indicated by the CEL?

J-Quad

[idaholtby]

Your CEL light should come on when you first turn the ignition on. This indicates that the lamp is good and the ECM is powered up. I would check the lamp first. (PO may have removed it to make an easier sale)
A bad CPS should store a code, but if the CEL lamp isn't working, how would you know it? There is a known ECM failure to were the capacitors go bad and the ecm is slow to power up. This is normally seen in cold weather, and is slow to power up, the CEL will not light initially so the fuel pump doesn't get power, but after a few moments, the CEL will light up, fuel pump relay engages, and the rigs will start. I doubt this is your issue though. Other ECM failures to where the CEL never comes on is very rare, however possible. Check the lamp first and go from there.

[J-Quad]

idaholtby,
How do I go about checking the CEL lamp?
Do I need to pull the dash apart then change the bulb?

J-Quad

[idaholtby]

Yes, remove the dash and check the lamp. Ensure the contacts for the lamp socket have a good contact to the lamp while you are in there.