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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Ammo Can Storage Guide
I thought i would share my latest modification. If you like to drive topless you'll be keenly aware of not being able to leave anything in your jeep or it will get stolen. I also needed somewhere to store my new bottle jack since after lifting the vechile my stock jack wouldnt reach, and also my hand tools. This is my solution and im pretty happy with it.
![]() I bought two US Army Surplus Ammo cans from Ammolock.com but you can get them from anywhere and make something similar work. The fat50s measure (6 7/8” x 8 5/8” x 12 5/8”). I was going to mount both of these in the back of the YJ with two bolts through the floor and two through the sides. I dont have a rear seat so this works out nicely. I shouldnt have to say this but drilling holes in your vehicle is perminant and risky. You attempt any of this at your own risk. Start by Drilling some holes in the Box. ![]() Get out your bolts, i have lots of fatty ones laying around. ![]() Place the ammo can where you want it and drill some pilot holes with a small bit using the holes already in the ammo can as guides. Make sure there is nothing important underneath where you intend to drill. ![]() I have cut-pile replacement carpet and getting the bolts through was a pain in the ***, thin chisel works better than a drill bit for this. Then mark with a construction crayon or something the location of the side holes to be drilled (again using the ammo can as a guide) ![]() Screw off the shroud in the wheel well and pull the mudgaurd away from the wall you're going to drill through then drill from the inside. If you can avoid drilling through the gaurd layer it will be that much more polished with hidden bolts. ![]() Use washers on both sides, you may need to use the nut to pull the bolt through if you're using short bolts then redo it with a washer. This is what it looks like attached. ![]() It was a little bit harder than it looks here, the underside on the passenger side has a reinforcement plate that makes getting the bolt through difficult, and other small annoyances. ![]() As far as security goes its lightweight, someone with bolt cutters or a hacksaw is going to get the top off fairly easily. But its much better than just leaving things out in the open.
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Next time you're at Lowe's check out elevator bolts. Like a carriage bolt but with a wide, thin flat head. They help keep the interior of your box obstruction free and makes it easy to clean or cover with carpet or some other liner. Good job.
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#3 |
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Member
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Seems like you could just put two holes in the bottom and bolt it to where the factory rear seat brackets bolt, no?
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#4 |
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Registered User
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do you have a problem with the lid clearing the fender wall?
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#5 |
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Hillbilly Member
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my buddy did something similar except he mounted his cans up on the fender wells because he still uses a back seat and then he herculined the tub and boxes it turned out awesome.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I am actually in the process of putting together the same deal, but on the wheel wells like Tobias mentioned. For anyone else that intends on doing the same thing, I have found this particular box (the Fat50) to be a bit too tall if you roll a sport cage. It fits so perfectly, but upon swinging the top open, you either have to mount it front forward (in which case you can only open about half way), or front backward but about 4" of the back of the ammo can is sitting off the wheel well. I have a friend who has some old cans that are about the same dimension as the Fat 50, with a few less inches in height...which will allow for the full-swing when having the front of the can pointing to the rear. Anyone know? I want to say they were .22 rounds, oddly enough...
I am actually going out to measure now: standard (non-fat) 50 cal's are a bit smaller at 12" L x 6" W x 7" T....not much, but may be enough to clear.... |
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#7 |
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Head Brewmaster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ocean Beach, San Diego, CA, California
Posts: 3,539
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Just 2? I'm getting to be known as the Ammo can king around here.
First off those big ones do make a great center console. I just cut the brackets off one side of the lid and welded some piano hinge to it to make it a flip top. ![]() ![]() I have 4 on my drivers side rear fender well. Holds spare parts, fluids, one for my air hose and such, one for my High Lift base and a few winch accessories. For the lock bar I just used some flat aluminum. You can't open the 2 middle cans at all when the lock bar is in place ![]() Got another one mounted to the floor right next to my seat for my mechanics gloves, winch controller, beef jerky, emergency water, glow sticks, and camp TP ![]() and I don't have pics but I have another one mounted at the back next to my big tool box that holds my tow strap and a few d-rings, and another mounted where you put yours with tie downs, hand cleaner, rags etc in it
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92 YJ. High Output 4.0L Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods My RigRater Score: 682RRv1.0 with a BOA of 13.47 I'm now doing custom bumpers and lift installs in So-cal |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Oh man. I love it. Those boxes seem to fit very nicely. Are those still standard 50 cal's on either side of the small middle boxes atop your wheel well? And you think those will still open (on the wheel well) with sport cage?
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#9 |
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Head Brewmaster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ocean Beach, San Diego, CA, California
Posts: 3,539
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yeah the big ones are standard 50cal boxes. They open fine for me and i have that cross bar on my family style cage.
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92 YJ. High Output 4.0L Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods My RigRater Score: 682RRv1.0 with a BOA of 13.47 I'm now doing custom bumpers and lift installs in So-cal |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Nice. Found a guy today that had 2 50 cal standards and 1 20mm can (that's the big center console one, right?...the 17x7x8 give or take?) and I'm going to stop by later tonight to lay everything in and make sure it fits!!!
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#11 |
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Registered User
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I was thinking the same thing. I think that would be more tamper proof also. But, great job if i didn't use my back seat i would be all over it
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1990 YJ = The Toy/ My Daily Driver 1996 XJ= Wifes Daily Driver www.Impact-FabWorks.com Impact-FabWorks Facebook Please fill out your profile, It helps us help you!!! |
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#12 |
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Head Brewmaster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ocean Beach, San Diego, CA, California
Posts: 3,539
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yeah the center console can is a 20mm can. I did have to use some scrap steel i had laying around to make some "feet" (for lack of a better term) for the back of it since the tranny hump slopes down. otherwise it wouldn't have sat level
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92 YJ. High Output 4.0L Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods My RigRater Score: 682RRv1.0 with a BOA of 13.47 I'm now doing custom bumpers and lift installs in So-cal |
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#13 |
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ISO 9001 Compliant
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20mm can
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. . "The right to be heard does not necessarily include the right to be taken seriously." —Hubert Humphrey . If you live within wheeling distance of San Diego county, click here |
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#14 |
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Head Brewmaster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ocean Beach, San Diego, CA, California
Posts: 3,539
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was wondering when you were gonna chime in Jeff.
I got the idea of using the big can for a console from him, but I went a slightly different route with the mounting method I used
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92 YJ. High Output 4.0L Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods My RigRater Score: 682RRv1.0 with a BOA of 13.47 I'm now doing custom bumpers and lift installs in So-cal |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Hey guys;
Got all the goodies today and got my business mounted up. I haven't put in the 20 yet, as I've got an old-school cobra 25 ltd cd on the way and am going to incorporate that into the center console, as well as fab a little "tray" that hangs from the top one way or another so I have a little bit of organization in there. I did pick up two standard 50 cal boxes...left one alone as I liked the stencil and the drab on it...the other I laid down a quick splash of white for medical crosses on the front, side, and top. On the back I used a military stencil that says "MD." I'm going to keep all my first aid kit and medical supplies in there, use the other one for a tool chest, than keep the 30 under the hood for my belt, conditioner, few spark plugs, etc. etc. I snapped a few shots as I went. I used just some self-tapping bolts, I am probably going to take this all down in 2 weeks when herculiner goes in and bring some fat bolts or elevator bolts up through the wall and into it so it's a bit more secure. I intend on the rattling going away when herculiner goes in as well... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Headed out to get my Hi-Lift Jack and mount it as well! Woot!!! |
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