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Unread 11-25-2009, 12:02 PM   #91
bgredjeep
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Regardless of the shape of the shackle, the shackle itself does not bend (or at least I hope not). The effect on a straight shackle is the same as a boomerang. The pivot is still a straight line so it would not have any effect.

The only thing a boomerang shackle does that a straight shackle does not is offer additional clearance to avoid limitations in the shackles movement (ex. for the rear frame crossmember in the rear), or an anti-kickback capability to avoid the shackle inverting after droop travel in the front.

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Unread 11-25-2009, 12:11 PM   #92
Wac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
Regardless of the shape of the shackle, the shackle itself does not bend (or at least I hope not). The effect on a straight shackle is the same as a boomerang. The pivot is still a straight line so it would not have any effect.

The only thing a boomerang shackle does that a straight shackle does not is offer additional clearance to avoid limitations in the shackles movement (ex. for the rear frame crossmember in the rear), or an anti-kickback capability to avoid the shackle inverting after droop travel in the front.
I see... by the looks of mine in the pick... they could invert fairly easily I would think with a bunch of droop??? Your thoughts??? I may go with boomarangs just for this reason...

My original intent was to get more of the shock from a bump transferred to the spring/shackles rather than straight up into the frame/cab. guess I can't get that out of my head yet! Thanks!
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Unread 03-24-2010, 01:02 PM   #93
squarelight94
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Ok i tried to figure it out for myself by reading through this but I'm just lost.

I get that Yj stock shackles are 4" eye to eye, the OP said longer shackles add lift that equals half the difference in length from 4" and the new shackles. Another post said he had 2" lift shackles. So if I'm doing my math correct, he must have 8" shackles eye to eye. This cant be right.

I'm trying to buy boomerang shackles but I cant seem to find the right ones. In addition I have pro comp springs. Currie and MORE sell 4 3/4 length booms eye to eye. Which is cool...cept I measured by shacks right now and there 5 3/4" eye to eye. So again if I'm doing my math right, my current shacks are giving me .085' lift.

I need booms, but I'm thinking if I get 4 3/4" booms that it'll actually lower the rear. Maybe my springs are saging? Please help

(would have included pictures but I couldn't re-size them.)
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Unread 03-25-2010, 09:27 PM   #94
Barrio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squarelight94 View Post
Ok i tried to figure it out for myself by reading through this but I'm just lost.

I get that Yj stock shackles are 4" eye to eye, the OP said longer shackles add lift that equals half the difference in length from 4" and the new shackles. Another post said he had 2" lift shackles. So if I'm doing my math correct, he must have 8" shackles eye to eye. This cant be right.

I'm trying to buy boomerang shackles but I cant seem to find the right ones. In addition I have pro comp springs. Currie and MORE sell 4 3/4 length booms eye to eye. Which is cool...cept I measured by shacks right now and there 5 3/4" eye to eye. So again if I'm doing my math right, my current shacks are giving me .085' lift.

I need booms, but I'm thinking if I get 4 3/4" booms that it'll actually lower the rear. Maybe my springs are saging? Please help

(would have included pictures but I couldn't re-size them.)
I have 1" boom shackles from RC.
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Unread 03-25-2010, 10:55 PM   #95
squarelight94
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Originally Posted by Barrio View Post
I have 1" boom shackles from RC.
Did you use the bolt sleeves you already had? I see the RC's dont come with them
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Unread 03-25-2010, 11:40 PM   #96
Barrio
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Originally Posted by squarelight94 View Post
Did you use the bolt sleeves you already had? I see the RC's dont come with them
yep, that and lube!
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Unread 10-18-2011, 08:55 AM   #97
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I get that Yj stock shackles are 4" eye to eye, the OP said longer shackles add lift that equals half the difference in length from 4" and the new shackles. Another post said he had 2" lift shackles. So if I'm doing my math correct, he must have 8" shackles eye to eye. This cant be right.
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.
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i just got a 1987 that had stock shackles in the front and home made in the rear measuring 7 7/8" bolt to bolt so i made a set for the front and fits 33's with no problem but we'll see how it drives and how many u joints i go through...

Last edited by rustyyj; 10-18-2011 at 01:07 PM..
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Unread 10-18-2011, 09:12 AM   #98
Poke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyyj View Post
I get that Yj stock shackles are 4" eye to eye, the OP said longer shackles add lift that equals half the difference in length from 4" and the new shackles. Another post said he had 2" lift shackles. So if I'm doing my math correct, he must have 8" shackles eye to eye. This cant be right.
.
.
.
.
i just got a 1987 that had stock shackles in the front and home made in the rear measuring 7 7/8" bolt to bolt so i made a set for the front and the jeep looks bad a$$ and fits 33's with no problem but we'll see how it drives and how many u joints i go through...
the math is right.

and I bet your jeep looks more like it has buck teeth and not very bad *** at all. Steering, bump steer, the jeep will not be as likely to go straight down the road.

7 7/8 shackles are not a proper lift. if anything its a danger to others on the road due to how it will steer, react, and wander.
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Unread 02-03-2014, 09:35 AM   #99
bpounds
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I just wanted to say thanks for this tip on removing those rear upper frame bolts. Well worth the price of admission here. I'm not sure doing this would have occurred to me, and I had been thinking sawzall. But this worked like a charm. Didn't need the heated rod. Was able to just pry the outer bushing and sleeve out. Then the bolt came right out easy. Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon_YJ View Post
Remove the shackle-spring bolt first (same as with the front), and now the fun begins!
Jeep engineers had to be having a laugh when they designed the shackle-frame bolt to go in the way it does. Because (at first sight) you have to drop the gas tank just to get the bolt out. Just to get one damned bolt out!! Yup, if you try to pull it straight out it comes into contact with the fuel tank before it comes out enough to clear the bushing/sleeve in the frame.
Well, alot of people throughout the years just broke out their favorite cutoff tool and made quick work of that bolt, others actually went through the process of dropping the tank to do it - which can sometimes be a good thing because this allows you to replace the fuel pump, sending unit, sock filter, or anything else you might have been putting off because you didn't feel like dropping the tank. But there is another way!
Yup, that's right, another way - that takes a little time, patience, and... did I mention time?
Here's how to get those top bolts out.
First, take the nut off the bolt!
Now, force the bolt out as far as you can. You'll probably need to use a punch and hammer to push it through because it might be pretty tight. A screwdriver will work in lieu of a punch.
Now that the bolt is pushed through as far as it can go, get some needle-nosed pliers and a small flat head screwdriver and try to get that sleeve out of there. This is the part that takes some time, but after you do the first one, doing the other side of the Jeep is a snap because you already know the tricks needed to do it. I have done this so many times for other people that I made a special tool to do it. It's an oversized threaded rod that I force into the sleeve, then I heat it up and just pull the sucker out. Heating the rob causes it to swell a bit and since I had to force it in there it is tight already. Add that to threading on the rod and it makes for some nice grippers... anyhow.
Where were we? Oh yeah! Now that you have the sleeve out, pup that half of the bushing out. In case you didn't know, the bushing is a 2 piece, now that I've told you that you are probably slapping your forehead right now going, "duh!" Once you get that half of the bushing popped out you are on the home stretch.
You will notice how the bolt has some wiggle room now, a whole lot in fact. If you're lucky you should be able to force the bolt down and out. If you're having too much trouble doing that, try pushing the bushing that is still in there out an inch or two by inserting a screwdriver in the other end of the tube where you just pulled the first half of the bushing out. Once you get a little bit of the remaining bushing out it allows for the bolt to smush the rubber more and gain an even steeper angle to pull it down and out.
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