95yj brake leak - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 27 Old 07-09-2013, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
jeepstillhaslif
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95yj brake leak

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Little by little it drains and becomes empty. My brake light is also on inside my dash. Could this be the reason y. Where do I start trying to fix this problem

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post #2 of 27 Old 07-09-2013, 01:37 PM
jeff_in_rc
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First thing I would do is clean out the crud in the master and re-fill it. Then I would put the Jeep up on jack stands and pull each wheel and start looking for obvious signs of a leak or leaks, brake lines, front calipers, rear wheel cylinders and lines and go from there.

Something else to look for, is there brake fluid on the inside of the cab where the plunger go into the master? Then look at all of your hard brake lines.

Let us know what you find.

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post #3 of 27 Old 07-09-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
jeepstillhaslif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_in_rc
First thing I would do is clean out the crud in the master and re-fill it. Then I would put the Jeep up on jack stands and pull each wheel and start looking for obvious signs of a leak or leaks, brake lines, front calipers, rear wheel cylinders and lines and go from there.

Something else to look for, is there brake fluid on the inside of the cab where the plunger go into the master? Then look at all of your hard brake lines.

Let us know what you find.
Sounds good looks Lk ill have another weekend project with the jeep. Seems Lk once you fix one problem another pops ups.
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post #4 of 27 Old 07-09-2013, 08:10 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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That resevor is for the rear brakes.
I would start out with the rear wheel cylinders.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list. www.mijc.org
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post #5 of 27 Old 07-12-2013, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
jeepstillhaslif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS
That resevor is for the rear brakes.
I would start out with the rear wheel cylinders.
Finally able to work on jeep tomorrow been working all week and school. So besides tires coming do I need take part drums or should I be able to tell from just looking
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post #6 of 27 Old 07-12-2013, 07:27 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Have someone pump the brakes while you look for leaks.
If you do not see any pull the drums off and see if there is fluid around the wheel cylinders.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list. www.mijc.org
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post #7 of 27 Old 07-12-2013, 07:44 PM
pasinbuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepstillhaslif View Post
Finally able to work on jeep tomorrow been working all week and school. So besides tires coming do I need take part drums or should I be able to tell from just looking

Yes. You will, pull the rear wheels. Pull the drums.
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post #8 of 27 Old 07-17-2013, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
jeepstillhaslif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasinbuy

Yes. You will, pull the rear wheels. Pull the drums.
So I pulled th rear wheels off yesterday and the drums did not want to come off. Will a couple of hits from a rubber hammer solve this. Or what's ur option on this. Don't even no when the last they came off I'm assuming over 4 yrs ago
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post #9 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 07:47 AM
jeff_in_rc
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Yes, smack them a few times and they will come off.

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post #10 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 08:22 AM
SeanB95YJ
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depends on when the last time they were done... could be (hopefully) just a ring of rust around the edge of the drum not allowing it to slide past the shoes... remove the rubber plug from the back and with an adjuster tool (or flat blade screwdriver) turn the star adjuster to move the shoes inward - then a couple whacks with a mallet should free it.

hopefully it won't be the situation I found myself in a couple years ago when I did my brakes... it wasn't the rim of rust that was keeping it on, but the drum had sort of "rust welded" (term my brother gave it) itself to the axle flange... I ended up going through 3 sawzall blades and 4 cutoff discs to cut enough of the drum away that I could get a pry bar between it and the flange to pry it off.

as far as leaks, I'll agree that you should start at the wheel cylinders and work your way forward while someone is pumping the brake pedal... but I respectfully disagree at the need to remove the drum just to check for a leak.... any leak in the wheel cylinder (the only hydraulic part inside the drum) will make itself visible on the backing plate, shoes or if it's enough, actually dripping from the drum.

my vote would be somewhere around the junction of the hard line and hose - up at the frame mount above the rear axle

Good luck

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
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post #11 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 09:31 AM
jokerchief462
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Clean the area the axle and drum come together with a wire brush. PB blaster and then if all else fails heat.

But like said above you need to back the adjusters off so the brake shoes relax the drum will get a wear lip on the braking surface and you won't get it off

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post #12 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 10:58 AM
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DO NOT pump the brakes with the rear drums removed. You will blow out the pistons and cover everything in brake fluid.

If you are losing that much fluid it should be pretty obvious where it's coming out

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post #13 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
jeepstillhaslif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty
DO NOT pump the brakes with the rear drums removed. You will blow out the pistons and cover everything in brake fluid.

If you are losing that much fluid it should be pretty obvious where it's coming out
Well this is good to no. It's not a big leak its slow. Takes about 1-2 before its completely out of break fluid again. Picture shown above. And my brake light is on and need it to shut off so I can pass inspection and there's all this build up of grease so its hard to tell if its leaking brake fluid at that spot. My jeep doesn't roll or anything when I have the e brake on. How does the computer no to turn my light on
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post #14 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 12:03 PM
SeanB95YJ
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your e-brake is activated by cable, not hydraulic pressure

your brake warning light is activated by a pressure sensor... if you follow the hard lines from the master cylinder, you'll see they go down to a brass distribution block... in that block is a sensor with 2 wires (black & white IIRC) coming off of it. this senses inadequate hydraulic pressure and turns on your warning light.

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
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post #15 of 27 Old 07-19-2013, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
jeepstillhaslif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ
your e-brake is activated by cable, not hydraulic pressure

your brake warning light is activated by a pressure sensor... if you follow the hard lines from the master cylinder, you'll see they go down to a brass distribution block... in that block is a sensor with 2 wires (black & white IIRC) coming off of it. this senses inadequate hydraulic pressure and turns on your warning light.
If its the one where it looks lk 3 or 4 brake lines are coming out of it I no which part ur talking about. So if its sensing in not getting full pressure to the rear the light will come on. By any chance can it be that brass block that's the problem
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