After a few to many close calls trying to stop the Jeep, I ended up doing the 95 dual diaphram booster upgrade. After doing some research and reading as many post on here that have done this, I went out and bought the parts and completed the swap. Here are some pictures and descriptions of how everything went for me.
Brake booster and master cylinder from a 1995 Wrangler with 4.0ltr.
Here is the old master cylinder and lines(Needed to be changed on looks alone).
Removed the master cylinder.
I covered up the proportioning valve to prevent debres getting into the system.
Disconected the booster rod from the brake pedal and switch.
Removed the booster leaving the bracket(Looks better already!).
Here is one difference between the 87 and 95 rod, the 87 rod hole is 5/8" and the 95 is 9/16" I believe. The other is the 95 rod is 1/4" shorter than the 87. I didn't worry about the 1/4" difference and can't really tell now that it's in.
Here is the rod after I drilled it out to 5/8", one of my friends had a bit or it would have cost me another $20.
I went ahead and painted the booster with Rusoleum Hamerite paint.
The 95 booster has larger studs(3/8") to mount it to the bracket, I drilled the four holes out to 1/2".
One issue I had was the brake light switch would not fit due to the casting at the end of the rod(later models use a different switch). I used an angle grinder and removed material until the mounting pin would fit with the switch on. I also had to bend the small tabs on the switch towards the rod end to get it to work properly.
Here is the booster mounted in it's new home.
Due to the master cylinder having bubble type fittings, I purchased adapters for the master cylinder. The fittings you will need are Edelmann #265000 and #271300. They both adapt to standard 3/16 brake line fittings. The lines I used where Carquest #NC320, they are nickle/copper and bend really nice.
I went and bought an extra line and cut it in half to make bleeded lines. I really don't like using those plastic plugs that come with the master cylinders.
Here are the adapter lines for the proportioning valve. I was going to reuse the original fittingsand double flare the lines myself but just could not get them to flare the way I wanted.
Here is the finished product, looks a whole lot better than it did with the old setup.
I bled all of the lines to get any air out and to flush out all of the old fluid.
I took it out for a test drive and I have to say it brakes a lot better than before(and I thought it wasn't that bad before). I don't think I will have to stand on the brake pedal any more when some idiot pulls out in front of me and decides to stop. The entire swap cost less than $250.00 and it was worth every penny!