94 YJ Shift point issue - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > 94 YJ Shift point issue

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

Reply
Unread 02-02-2013, 08:54 PM   #1
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
94 YJ Shift point issue

Hey guys I am new to this site and glad to be a part of this awesome jeep family. I have a thread started I would like you guys to check out it is right here. Anyway My question and problem is odd. When I go to shift in any gear my pedal is all the way down and it grabs as soon as I move it at all really. THis becomes an issue when wheeling and jst in my driving it as a DD.. I am in the middle of a lift/ partial restore but would like to know if there is anything to fix this issue once I get it on the road?

I was recently changing the clutch on my friends commanche and the springs in the clutch were different then the previous one that just decided to explode while at a red light( Luckily I was driving behind him LOL) So anyway once we got it installed the shift point seemed to be higher then before. So does that mean the sizing of the springs will affect were the shift point is in the pedal?

So my question is how do I change the shift point where my clutch grabs to where my pedal is located?

Any advice or knowledge wold help alot. Thank you in advance

Again Check out my other Thread and please share

Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-02-2013, 09:11 PM   #2
linusb
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lexington,SC
Posts: 1,769
Your clutch is activated hydraulically. On firewall is master cylinder with line that runs to bell housing where actuator is. You can replace whole thing pretty easy for bout 125. U could b low on fluid but if so it just means its leaking. Just easier to replace complete closed unit.
__________________
1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
linusb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-03-2013, 11:13 AM   #3
kahanabob
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Maui
Posts: 460
master probably leaking internally, fluid is leaking past/around the plunger. as posted above new master will fix issue.
kahanabob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-04-2013, 05:17 AM   #4
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
So I have very little experience with these clutch right now. But I can say I seen no leals and my fluid is not leaking anywhere that I can tell the clutch is always smooth and the point never changes even a little.

What you guys said about the master and all sounds good and the prices are dead on at pep boys. I am lost though as to anyway to change the shift point without a full replacement of a new clutch already and master
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-04-2013, 05:52 AM   #5
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
I also have a question abot my shackles. I was gonna custome make my own and just make them 3/4 of an inch longer then stock.

My question is will this effect my drive shaft angle enough to the point I should not do this?

Now I am installing a 4" Rubicon Express standard lift. So this will increase my angle already and then to compond it with the shackle extension
Id like to do it but I dont wanna keep breaking or making problems later
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-05-2013, 07:07 AM   #6
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
Can anyone out there give me an idea Please

My questions are

1. I would like to change my shift point in my clutch any idea how to do this.

I have checked the master and slave and there is no problem or odd things about it. My fluids are good and clean. But my shift point is still all the way at the max throw of the pedal any Ideas?

2. Has anybody done a 4" lift with a 1" shackle lift and kept the same drive shaft? If so did you get wobble or any bad results or good?

Any help on this will get me into my next point of getting My lift on Thank you
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-05-2013, 08:56 AM   #7
bogleparsons
Registered User
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,890
I have a RC 4" lift with 1" lift shackles and I still have the stock drive shaft.

at full droop it is very close to coming out but doesn't. I also have a TC drop and shims in my axle.

The correct and long term answer is SYE + new DS when funds are available.
__________________
If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
bogleparsons is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-05-2013, 12:10 PM   #8
Mark05059
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: quechee Vermont
Posts: 4,332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzfrd View Post
I also have a question abot my shackles. I was gonna custome make my own and just make them 3/4 of an inch longer then stock.My question is will this effect my drive shaft angle enough to the point I should not do this?

Now I am installing a 4" Rubicon Express standard lift. So this will increase my angle already and then to compond it with the shackle extension
Id like to do it but I dont wanna keep breaking or making problems later
You do realize that this will only get you 3/8 lift correct?
__________________
1998 ZJ 5.2 Auto

1989 Wrangler Black Bone Stock 2.5l 5spd
/l , [____],
|---L--[]lllllll[]-
()_) ()_)==O=)_)
Mark05059 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-06-2013, 04:10 PM   #9
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by bogleparsons View Post
I have a RC 4" lift with 1" lift shackles and I still have the stock drive shaft.

at full droop it is very close to coming out but doesn't. I also have a TC drop and shims in my axle.

The correct and long term answer is SYE + new DS when funds are available.
Thank you I do wanna get a SYE kit but it will have to wait till this one gives out but till then I will keep an eye on it Thanks
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #10
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark05059 View Post
You do realize that this will only get you 3/8 lift correct?
Im not in it to get a lift outta it really I just wanted to do my own since buying them was so expensive. And for the know how on how to fab them. But yes I was thinking it may give me about a 1/2 or so.

Its more or less the improved angle on the driveshaft (even how small it may be) that worried me. Just wanted to see if you guys did anything similar and had death wobble.
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-06-2013, 04:26 PM   #11
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
Also was wandering if you guys now how long my shackles can be made before they will impact the response and feel of my leafs that I will be installing. The kit Im getting is a standard 4" Rubicon express lift. I was reading some other threads and there was some literature on the lengths and what not. It spoke of how the length can alter the softness and can even be to short and cause it to become disformed upon flex . So after reading it and going cross eyed from all the detail I figured I would just ask you guys if you knew or had any issues I should know about. Thank you in advance
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-06-2013, 09:16 PM   #12
bigbossd1030
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Edmonton, AB, Alberta
Posts: 2,515
I am not a lift guy, but I know a thing or two about the hydros in these.
What you are describing, from what I understand, is that the pedal needs to be at the floor and even the slightest movement will engage the clutch.
This is what I believe is happening.
In the master cylinder, There is a plunger inside that is on the end of the rod that connects to your clutch pedal.
Now when you push the clutch, It pulls this rod with the plunger on the end.
As it comes closer to the rear of the mc, where the hose is to your slave cylinder (not an "actuator") it builds up pressure in the line and slave cylinder, causing the slaves rod to disengage the clutch.
I think that the plunger isn't sealing for the most part of its travel, then near the end, it seals. And once you release the pedal just a bit, it releases all the pressure.
I would say buy the Mc and Sc kit, and replace both. You will notice a difference in the travel and feel.
Pm me if you need detailed and further instructions on this. I have many posts and threads on this subject.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
__________________
[COLOR="DarkGreen"]/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
()_)-()_)--o)_)[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Blue"]OFFICIAL JEEPER[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]Any Jeepers in Edmonton, AB
I am on channel 33.[/COLOR]
I live, I ride, I am JEEP.
bigbossd1030 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-07-2013, 07:12 AM   #13
Benzfrd
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: schwenksville, pa
Posts: 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030 View Post
I am not a lift guy, but I know a thing or two about the hydros in these.
What you are describing, from what I understand, is that the pedal needs to be at the floor and even the slightest movement will engage the clutch.
This is what I believe is happening.
In the master cylinder, There is a plunger inside that is on the end of the rod that connects to your clutch pedal.
Now when you push the clutch, It pulls this rod with the plunger on the end.
As it comes closer to the rear of the mc, where the hose is to your slave cylinder (not an "actuator") it builds up pressure in the line and slave cylinder, causing the slaves rod to disengage the clutch.
I think that the plunger isn't sealing for the most part of its travel, then near the end, it seals. And once you release the pedal just a bit, it releases all the pressure.
I would say buy the Mc and Sc kit, and replace both. You will notice a difference in the travel and feel.
Pm me if you need detailed and further instructions on this. I have many posts and threads on this subject.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
Yeah I think you are right and after looking at it for awhile and some thinking I agree. I was really against having to buy a new clutch and all but I guess the whole kit is the way to go. And thank you to everybody else who looked at this and shared.

And thank you for the in detail layout on the mechanics
Benzfrd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-09-2013, 10:40 PM   #14
linusb
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lexington,SC
Posts: 1,769
We're not telling you to buy a new clutch, we're telling you to buy the assembly which activates the clutch. This consists of the master cylinder on your firewall and the slave which bolts into your bell housing. The two are connected with hose and can be removed and replaced as a complete assembly. It's a 30 minute job.

If you have an internal slave, then it's a big job.
__________________
1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
linusb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 02-10-2013, 07:01 AM   #15
pasinbuy
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: florida
Posts: 3,840
On the 94 it is very easy to replace the MC and slave system.

FYI, the MC will not show leaking on the motor side of the firewall. Our clutch MC will only show leaking on the inside of the firewall. Feel up behind the clutch on the inside of the firewall for wetness.
pasinbuy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.