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Unread 06-19-2012, 11:39 PM   #1
papotter
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93 YJ radio wiring issue - lack of constant power source

Hi there JeepForumers. I'm trying to address a nagging problem with my radio. This after-market deck was installed before I bought it, and it seems to be lacking a constant power source. That is, every time I turn off the car it 'forgets' the time, which CD track I'm on, EQ setting, etc. I'm assuming that's because the installer screwed up the wiring.

From the deck instructions (Jensen MP7610) there are four power-related wires coming from the deck:

1) Power antenna (dark blue) - currently unconnected

2) Ground (black) - currently connected to chassis

3) Memory/Battery (yellow) - 'Connect to battery or 12 volt power sources that is always alive.' This is currently connected to the fuse box above the clutch marked 'Radio' (see photo link below)

4) Accessory/Ignition (red) - 'Connect to existing radio wire or radio fuse'. Currently connected to the purple/white wire coming from the stock Jeep radio connection bundle. This purple/white wire seems to be the 'Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire' according to online sources. There is also a red (or purple) wire (and of course a bunch of others) coming out of the stock bundle that sources say is the Constant 12V+ wire.

I'm guessing it's a problem with 3 or 4. Would a tripped fuse (the orange '5' in the photo below) cause a problem with the constant power? Or alternatively, has the accessory/ignition wire from the deck been connected to the wrong wire from the stock radio bundle?

Any suggestions are appreciated, this is my first foray into my Jeep's electrical system.

Mahalo,

Phil


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2157238/Pho...%2051%20PM.jpg

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Unread 06-20-2012, 12:12 AM   #2
GunHo198
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I'm kinda sure the radio fuse is also connected to your cigerette lighter. And the cigerette lighter is off when the ignition is off. So you might want to find a different fuse to tap into.

Are all the wires cut off on your factory radio harness? If not you can buy a Jeep install kit and run the wires off the main radio harness. There should have been a constant hot there if I remember right. Though you might have to make a seperate ground.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 12:13 AM   #3
Drix
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Sounds like the PO ran the power from through the constant from an ignition source. The deck will More then likely not work without both constant and ignition. I temporarily ran a new constant but I need to run down wires now I have the same issue.

I was doing a bit of reading on it last week. Seems to be a some what common issue.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 05:59 AM   #4
Rproject
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I had the exact same setup from my PO. After 2-3 times of resetting the eq, I ran a clean 16awg line direct to the battery. Since the line is fused at the radio, there's no worries about having to go through the fuse box and there are plenty of places in the firewall to pass a new wire. Run clean and be done with it.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 07:09 AM   #5
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The pink wire from the harness is constant power only for memory settings...
Violet is connected the the key on/start, acc and this is what turns your radio on.
The dome 20 AMP fuse allows power to the door ajar lights, radio, under dash light, and also the dome light in a factory dome light.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 11:07 AM   #6
papotter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject View Post
I had the exact same setup from my PO. After 2-3 times of resetting the eq, I ran a clean 16awg line direct to the battery. Since the line is fused at the radio, there's no worries about having to go through the fuse box and there are plenty of places in the firewall to pass a new wire. Run clean and be done with it.
Of the solutions listed so far, this makes the most sense to me. That said, when I get the yellow wire from the deck all the way to the battery, how do I make the connection? Is there some sort of add-on to the positive terminal that allows me to add small connections? Also, you sure that connecting it directly to the battery won't short the deck?

Thanks for your help, everyone!

Phil
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Unread 06-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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Follow Q's advice. Failing that. I just used one of those brass add on's. Radio Shack has them. I put it the Tailight Fuse. Remember to put it on the "hot" side of the fuse. I then ran this to a switch located near the fog lamp/ rear wiper area. Then I can power the radio without the key being on. The switch runs the radio power, another wire for the "keep alive" clock and memory circuit.
Running a wire from the PDC is fraught with issues.

Regards,

Jim W
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Unread 06-20-2012, 12:07 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JWELK View Post
Follow Q's advice. Failing that. I just used one of those brass add on's. Radio Shack has them. I put it the Tailight Fuse. Remember to put it on the "hot" side of the fuse. I then ran this to a switch located near the fog lamp/ rear wiper area. Then I can power the radio without the key being on. The switch runs the radio power, another wire for the "keep alive" clock and memory circuit.
Running a wire from the PDC is fraught with issues.

Regards,

Jim W
Thanks Jim. You'll have to forgive that I'm a total newbie to electrical systems. Based on the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual, isn't the Tail light fuse in the front fuse box (e.g. 'Power Distribution Center)? So I'd have to run it through the firewall regardless?

Would an easier solution, referencing the photo I posted above, be to just move the yellow wire from the 'Radio' slot in the fuse box above the parking brake (as mentioned above, very likely not a constant source of power) to a slot that IS a constant source? For example, you can see a 'Dome Light' labeled in the photo, wouldn't that need to be a constant source? Note that I DO NOT have a dome light.

Incidentally, if I do use the 'Dome Light' slot, is the fuse # supposed to match with the number on the fuse box? Right now it looks like there's a 10A fuse in a 20A slot.

Thanks guys! Close to having this mystery solved (and finally knowing what time it is in my Jeep!).

Aloha,

Phil
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Unread 06-20-2012, 01:00 PM   #9
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It should be a 20 amp in the dome and yes it is a battery feed. There is no need to run the line to the battery unless you have an issue with ripple or interference on the power feeds. The steering column has both your switched ignition and battery feed as does the fuse panel.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 01:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papotter View Post
Of the solutions listed so far, this makes the most sense to me. That said, when I get the yellow wire from the deck all the way to the battery, how do I make the connection? Is there some sort of add-on to the positive terminal that allows me to add small connections? Also, you sure that connecting it directly to the battery won't short the deck?

Thanks for your help, everyone!

Phil
You can pick up a ring terminal at any Ace Hardware. Pull the nut on your positive battery clamp (you don't need to pull the clamp off), put the ring terminal over the bolt and put the nut back on. Your inline fuse on your yellow wire will prevent you from shorting the deck.

Look around the firewall, you may find an "empty hole" to run the wire. I had a nice 3/4" diameter hole just above the hump for the trans that went straight through to the engine compartment. Wide open, no frills, no fuss, no messing with other wiring.

Oh, and just so understand that I'm not a hack, I've installed dozens of stereo systems in vehicles over the years from mine to friends to friends of friends. Everything from simple head unit swaps to 3,000+ watt mirror shaking, trunk rattling, thump machines. :-)
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Unread 06-20-2012, 01:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
It should be a 20 amp in the dome and yes it is a battery feed. There is no need to run the line to the battery unless you have an issue with ripple or interference on the power feeds. The steering column has both your switched ignition and battery feed as does the fuse panel.
This. Plus it is wire #3, the memory.

I've been doing car audio and car electronics for about 12 years now and in my experience the one thing you want to avoid is to run a bunch of wires to your battery. It creates a mess to maintain not to mention issues that can come from it. If you feel that the fuse panel isn't where you want to run every constant 12v power, then run a large fused cable from your battery to a power distribution block. Then you can run all your 12v power needs in the cab to that.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 02:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XabuJr View Post
This. Plus it is wire #3, the memory.

I've been doing car audio and car electronics for about 12 years now and in my experience the one thing you want to avoid is to run a bunch of wires to your battery. It creates a mess to maintain not to mention issues that can come from it. If you feel that the fuse panel isn't where you want to run every constant 12v power, then run a large fused cable from your battery to a power distribution block. Then you can run all your 12v power needs in the cab to that.
I agree with him on that. I have 2 batteries, and a ton of wires going to it. I plan on trimming it down as much as possible so it will be easier to disconnect and pull my batteries if need be. Right now it would take me an hour or so. and more to hook everything back up.

Gotta keep it simple.
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Unread 06-20-2012, 03:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by GunHo198 View Post
I agree with him on that. I have 2 batteries, and a ton of wires going to it. I plan on trimming it down as much as possible so it will be easier to disconnect and pull my batteries if need be. Right now it would take me an hour or so. and more to hook everything back up.

Gotta keep it simple.
Yep. These are your best friend!

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Unread 06-20-2012, 03:46 PM   #14
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Stereo shop? Or Boat shop?
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Unread 06-20-2012, 04:19 PM   #15
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Stereo shop? Or Boat shop?
Stereo shop, though Amazon and eBay will probably be the two cheapest spots to find those..
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