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Unread 04-11-2011, 09:09 PM   #1
snakeroo
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93 YJ Fuel Pump Replacement via Floor Access Panel

Okay. So after eliminating everything else and resorting to beating on my gas tank with a mallet, in order to get my Jeep to start, I determined my fuel pump was bad. After searching and seeing that it's kind of a pain to drop the tank and adding in the fact, I've got a fair amount of rust going on, I decided to go ahead and do the floor access panel. Here are some pictures and some things I ran into along the way...

My 15 year old Dremel and about 9 cutting wheels worked just awesome!


Almost done the cut!


After wrestling with a few spot welds on an unexpected cross member, we got the cut floor piece out, revealing the top of the fuel pump assembly mounted to the gas tank. We cut it far enough to the left, so we could unplug the wires that go to the pump assembly.(It helps to have a second person under the Jeep holding the other end of the plug, both when UNplugging and REplugging it back in)


The cross member was blocking the back edge of the assembly, but a gentle 90 degree twist, out came the old pump assembly!


Documenting the old pump assembly, in case we forgot what went where(and we did!)


These pieces were sitting in the cup, in the bottom of the tank, that the bottom of the assembly sits in. These are pieces of the original fuel pump assembly seal(1993). In 1995 there was a recall to replace the seal. Apparently, the Jeep dealer never bothered to fish out these pieces!


New pump/adapters/hoses/filter in the old assembly and ready to go back in! Tightened it down. Plugged wires and hoses back in. Started Jeep up. Vrooommm. Yay! =o)

Bosch Fuel Pump (part number: bs69302) - www.advanceautoparts.com
Bosch Fuel strainer (part number: 68026) - www.advanceautoparts.com
Rectangular tank seal gasket (part number: 52127833) - www.Quadratec.com

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Unread 04-11-2011, 09:23 PM   #2
moonshinefuel
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Good job there! You finally found the lines you like, and did it. Came out good!
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Unread 04-12-2011, 07:59 AM   #3
Que89YJ
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Can you measure out and post the dimension of your cut and a good relative position of the cut like to the wheel wells. Good pics! Thanks for posting it.
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Unread 04-12-2011, 08:00 PM   #4
hifooy07
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is the sending unit bolted to the tank? whats your game plan for sealing up the floor now? im thinking about doing this too. it would be nice to find another floor pan and cut it a little wider then your hole and make it so it bolts on, maybe use some weather stripping to seal it tight. i like the dremel idea also. i guess ill get started on mine tomorrow. my fuel pump is ready to kick the bucket.
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Unread 04-12-2011, 09:50 PM   #5
kahanabob
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very cool! i did that once on a ford bronco i just used a flat piece of aluminum and calk to cover it back up.
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Unread 04-12-2011, 10:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Can you measure out and post the dimension of your cut and a good relative position of the cut like to the wheel wells. Good pics! Thanks for posting it.
I had a '94 YJ tank out a few weeks back. I measured the sender location relative to the center bolt for the rear seat belts. I then transcribed my measurements to a piece of cardstock so I could have an accurate template. I'll post up my measurements & some pics (naturally....) over the next few days in a new thread.

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Unread 04-21-2011, 11:19 PM   #7
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Sorry for the delay! The assembly is bolted to the top of the tank. The measurements of my cut are: 9 1/2inches from front to back. And 18 inches from side to side. (I made the one cut about and inch away from the seatbelt bolt). You can compare the location of the cut to your own floor, as I think the "ribs" in the floor are the same amongst the years? I think some of the other people cut right thru that cross-member, but I didn't want to weaken the floor. Plus, my Dremel wouldn't go thru it anyway. Also, I used all but one of a 20 pack of the brown Dremel cutting wheels! Admittedly a few broke at first, but then as we got the knack, the wheels simply got real tiny, before changing them. And I had been concerned about clearance between the floor and the tank/wires/hoses, as far as if my Dremel wheel might cut into them. But I think you can see, there is a decent little space there.

Not sure how I will mount the floor piece back on yet. I will add more pictures when I do! For now, it's just placed there. I am thinking a hinge. I know I did see a post on another site, where they did the bigger floor piece from another Jeep idea. But since I left the cross member, perhaps I can mount one side back to that(if I don't go the hinge idea route).

If you do yours the way I did it, remember, where that cross member is, there are about 5 little spot welds. What I did was carefully drill those out, while another person was yanking on the floor piece..to pop each one. And we did have to bend the edge of the cross member up a wee bit when lifting the assembly up and out.

Lastly, by not mounting the floor piece back on right away, you can check things for leaks. Bone dry so here here. Overall, this was not really difficult at all! And the Jeep started up on the first try and has ever since. It has been a week and a half now =o)
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Unread 06-26-2011, 12:15 AM   #8
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i was wondering why you had to cut so far to the back of the jeep? the crossmember seems to be in the way of any access gains by such a big access panel. how did you get to the retaining screws under the crossmember?
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Unread 06-26-2011, 12:39 AM   #9
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I had researched other threads on this site and others. And it appeared they cut that far back. So I thought it was needed. I also didn't realize most of them cut right thru that cross member. I was shocked to find it underneath there. If you look at the picture of the pump coming out, to the very right, you can see the cross member goes down a tad. Because I pried it up slightly to make room for the pump to come out. There are only two bolts under the crossmember and I was able to get my tiny ratchet in there with no problem. This way worked out really well. It's now 2.5 months later and all is good so far. I've still not put hinges on or done anything top seal it up. Just have the metal rectangle sitting over the hole and the rug over it all. Haven't yet decided on how I'm going to button it back up. If it's really even necessary?
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Unread 06-26-2011, 12:57 AM   #10
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so if i decide to do it ,i dont have to go past the cross member then? also i am worried that there might be a problem with sparks hitting the top of the tank and not knowing if my lines are cracked. that makes me nervous. i go thru some deep water crossings and i would need to seal it up .

by the way great wright up!
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Unread 06-26-2011, 02:33 AM   #11
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No need to go past the cross member. And really, the cross member is there for a reason or two. One probably being, so you can put heavy items on the floor with out worrying about the weight of them causing the floor to sag and touch the top of the pump assembly. The most perfect cut, would probably be if you have it lined up with those spot welds. Have your line go right thru the middle of them. If you look in my first picture, you can just barely see a couple. Look on your floor and you'll see them; every so slight dimples.

I too, was nervous at the thought of the sparks possibly igniting something. Even read one thread where the guy had a hose of water running under there while he did it, haha. I was almost going to syphon the tank, thinking that would lessen the chance of igniting. But luckily I asked about doing that and someone came in and explained, how the more full a tank is, the less fumes there are! So I left my 3/4 tank worth of gas in there. Using the dremel is great too, because the wheels are small. And with the cross member there, there is a decent little gap between floor and tank. Even between the floor and the tank hoses. As you can see in the pix. Now if you were to use an angle grinder and cut the the crossmember(like some have done)...I think higher chance of cutting a hose and or the tank. Just use a dremel and get a 20-pack of the brown cutting discs(I used 19 of them!) Broke the first few, until I got the knack. Then they simply ground down to teeny bits.
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Unread 06-26-2011, 02:08 PM   #12
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i agree that a full tank would be better. im not worried about cutting into the lines. i can see from the picks that there is clearance. im worried that one of those breather hoses have a crack in them already. i guess i could fill the tank with co2 but i dont have a bottle. maybe run a hose from the exhaust from a running car into the tank. i seem to remember someone doing that when welding on a steel gas tank that after they emptied there tank and flushed it but was worried about residual fumes. might be to old school
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Unread 06-26-2011, 02:31 PM   #13
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maybe with the newer cars that run so clean it wouldnt be a good idea. i found some info doing a search.

Quote:
It is a false collective belief that what you are filling the tank with is carbon monoxide. Any gasoline engine that is running normally and is fuel injected produces little to no CO. Check your emissions test report. If you want to make CO, you have to have the garage door closed, so that the available oxygen to the engine begins to deplete, and it is breathing in a large percentage of exhaust. It is poor, or incomplete combustion that produces CO. If you have a problem with your furnace, it is only when the O2 starts dropping that CO starts being produced. That is why you don't have to have a flue pipe on a gas stove. Think about it: all the stove burners and the oven are running, at +- 35,000 BTU, yet how often does the chef get CO poisoning? That is because the combustion is complete.
What you're filling the tank with when you use your exhaust is mostly atmosphere that has had the oxygen removed by the engine, and replaced by the product of the chemical reaction between the fuel and oxygen: carbon dioxide. At about 19% in a well tuned engine, it is about 100 times more concentrated than what naturally occurs in the atmosphere. The rest of the exhaust is mostly nitrogen, and small percentages of oxides of nitrogen and unburned hydrocarbons. If your engine has an occasional misfire, which you will smell, then there will be traces of oxygen, and carbon monoxide in the exhaust.
It is the lack of oxygen in the that makes this method work. I am glad to have the opportunity to this rant, even though I know full well that everybody is still going to say "hook up your exhaust and fill the tank with carbon monoxide".
Thanks for listening.
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Unread 06-26-2011, 02:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Can you measure out and post the dimension of your cut and a good relative position of the cut like to the wheel wells. Good pics! Thanks for posting it.
Not OP here but I did an access hole recently and did take measurements. Now I did cut the crossmember but my tub has thick-wall tube crossmembers in front and behind. I also have a 1" body lift so my tank sits a little lower than others. It's obvious in the pics.

From the lip of the gate, measure up and mark at 6" and 14"


From the left wheel well wall, measure and mark at 14" and 22"


Mark out your access hole

Using a thin wheel, I cut mine out. You can see in this picture how close 6" is to the support bar. I'd recommend going to 5 3/4" so you're sure you're all the way through.


Et voila!


For clarity, where to clip the tape measure.


For clarity, where to push up the tape measure against.


Perfect size window IMO.



No more worries about accessing the sending unit again. And I ended up using it 2 days later when my pump died. Swapped it in a parking lot in under 20 minutes. And yes, Canadians deal with a lot of rust.

My tank was out, so I was comfortable using a full size grinder. If your tank is in, I recommend taking it out. But if you don't make sure to use a dremmel or guarded wheel so you can't get into the tank or lines.
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Unread 06-26-2011, 03:32 PM   #15
bigsquat
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how do you get to the electrical connecter with a smaller access hole?
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