93 Rear Driver Side Axle Bearing. Replaced TWICE in 2 weeks and it just went again!!! - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-10-2013, 01:15 PM   #1
coynea
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93 Rear Driver Side Axle Bearing. Replaced TWICE in 2 weeks and it just went again!!!

3 weeks ago, I heard a loud ticking coming from the rear of my jeep heading up the hill to our house. Upon inspection when I got home, there was fluid leaking out of the drum. Thinking it was probably the brakes/cylander (which I had been meaning to replace soon anyway), I gathered my tools and went to work.

Instead, after pulling off the outer hub, we noticed the fluid coming from around the axle/axle tube and the axle itself could wiggle up/down/left/right. I'd never done a bearing replacement before, but figured hey... couldn't be THAT hard. We grabbed a chilton manual and after 3 days, finally had everything disassembled (mainly because we didn't have the right tools & had to work around my job). Figured we'd replace the brakes since we had everything apart anyways, and grabbed everything from the local parts stores (pep boys/kragen/etc).

The bearing I was sold was an aftermarket with the seal built-in, and meant to put the new bearings in contact with a different area on the axle shaft. The directions it came with also said it would stick out of the axle tube about 1/4". Get everything back together by Sunday afternoon, fluid filled, test drive. So far, so good.

Fast-forward to Thursday... puddle under my tire at work. Checked brake lines again, nope... more differential fluid. Drove on it because it was late and I had work the next day. After work, went and rented all the tools we'd need that I didn't have, and bought parts direct from the Jeep dealer. Figured maybe the aftermarket part just wasn't quite right. Spent about 2-hrs Friday night pulling it apart (went quicker with all the right tools and knowing how everything fits together). Put back together Saturday. Again, test drive seemed fine.

Just over 1-week goes by, and I've got a puddle... again... yay... Took the tire & hub off, confirmed axle tube leaks for the 3rd time. Also, same slop that was present the first time. And now that I'm listening for it, I hear a slight tick when I'm coasting (can't hear it above the engine noise if I'm on the gas).

I really don't want to replace the axle bearing & seal again just to have it blow a week later, so what's next? New axle with a new bearing & seal? Maybe I missed some crucial step that isn't in any book or how-to guide for replacing axle bearings? If I DO need to replace the axle, do I have to do both sides or can I just replace the axle on the side that's having problems? (Don't really want to tear apart the other side since it seems to be operating fine... and at this moment, have no faith that this repair is going to work.)

Any Help/Guidance/Advice would be greatly appreciated... and if you're in the Sonoma County area (I'm new up here so don't know any fellow jeepers yet!) and not doing anything this weekend - drinks are on me if you can help fix the problem.



Other Specs:
Make/Model: 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ
Engine: 4.0 6-Cyl
Rear Diff: Dana 35
Axle Style: C-clip, Non-ABS
No major modifications that I'm aware of.

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Unread 10-10-2013, 02:39 PM   #2
warthog312
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My initial thought after reading all that: the housing may be tweaked/bent just slightly enough to be not sealing properly. Any offroad trips / major potholes / Duke brothers moments lately?
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Unread 10-10-2013, 04:29 PM   #3
coynea
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No offroading since last year (Holy crap, has it been that long?) No Duke moments either... Potholes, yes, but nothing that jarred to the bone... the road I live on is like a washboard.
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Unread 10-10-2013, 04:47 PM   #4
Apollo12227
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Bent rim, axle shaft or housing can cause this.
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Unread 10-10-2013, 04:49 PM   #5
jbolty
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I would guess bent shaft, bent housing or both.

You know the answer already. Chuck the whole thing and find an 8.8.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 08:16 AM   #6
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
I would guess bent shaft, bent housing or both.

You know the answer already. Chuck the whole thing and find an 8.8.
Seriously. For all the work to do those seals over and over again it would be worth it to sink the ~$300 and not worry about that rear axle again until you're pushing >35's.

Shoot, my d35 was fine and I opted to do away with it. Unless you've got the unicorn YJ d44 it's just the way to go.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 01:33 PM   #7
coynea
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Well... the 8.8 WAS on my list when I first got it a year ago. Some fellow Jeepers in San Diego convinced me it wasn't worth it and they've never had a problem with their D35... AND I also think she'd look nice with 33-35s.

Ok... IF I go ahead with this, I know there are tons of how-to for the 8.8 swap, but since I have your attention:
What about suspension? If I'm considering a 2.5" or 4" lift, should I get the new springs and swap everything at the same time so the perches are welded at the correct angle for the lift (eliminating the need for a SYE if I go 4")?
Recommendations for gear ratio for 33-35 tires? 4.10 or 3.73? I currently have 30", and wouldn't be upgrading them until next spring/summer. Current gear ratio is 3.07, so obviously no 4x4 until front differential gets upgraded to match the rear...
Limited Slip or Open? (Pretty sure I'd go open and get a locker later)

I should point out, this is my DD w/country & town roads comprising most of the miles.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 01:36 PM   #8
Siva283
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Have you replaced the seal at the dif. If that one is leaking it will keep coming out and it will keep thrashing the outter bearing that is meant to use grease not oil as a lubricant
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[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 10-11-2013, 01:52 PM   #9
jbolty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coynea View Post
Well... the 8.8 WAS on my list when I first got it a year ago. Some fellow Jeepers in San Diego convinced me it wasn't worth it and they've never had a problem with their D35... AND I also think she'd look nice with 33-35s.

Ok... IF I go ahead with this, I know there are tons of how-to for the 8.8 swap, but since I have your attention:
What about suspension? If I'm considering a 2.5" or 4" lift, should I get the new springs and swap everything at the same time so the perches are welded at the correct angle for the lift (eliminating the need for a SYE if I go 4")?
Recommendations for gear ratio for 33-35 tires? 4.10 or 3.73? I currently have 30", and wouldn't be upgrading them until next spring/summer. Current gear ratio is 3.07, so obviously no 4x4 until front differential gets upgraded to match the rear...
Limited Slip or Open? (Pretty sure I'd go open and get a locker later)

I should point out, this is my DD w/country & town roads comprising most of the miles.
SAN DIEGO people said that? Name names and I'll make sure they are stripped of rank and have their jeeps taken away.

Best to do it all at once and get the angles right.

4:10 is an easy swap because you can find front and rear axles already geared to that and it's a good upgrade from 3:07. See if you can find someone local to let you drive theirs with other gearing before you decide.

No real benefit to LS for off road.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 01:56 PM   #10
coynea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Have you replaced the seal at the dif. If that one is leaking it will keep coming out and it will keep thrashing the outter bearing that is meant to use grease not oil as a lubricant
The inner axle oil seal was only for the 87-89 YJ Dana 35... At least, every D35 schematic I look at only lists it for the 87-89 model. Those have the pressed on retainer ring keeping the bearing race on the axle. I have a c-clip style where the bearing race is in the axle tube, not on the axle and all schematics only show the outer seal.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #11
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coynea View Post
The inner axle oil seal was only for the 87-89 YJ Dana 35... At least, every D35 schematic I look at only lists it for the 87-89 model. Those have the pressed on retainer ring keeping the bearing race on the axle. I have a c-clip style where the bearing race is in the axle tube, not on the axle and all schematics only show the outer seal.
Ill take your word for it. I never looked into it. I have decided the D35 isnt worth the cost of new brake shoes so my next brake job will be installing an 8.8
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 10-11-2013, 02:08 PM   #12
coynea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
SAN DIEGO people said that? Name names and I'll make sure they are stripped of rank and have their jeeps taken away.
Haha, nope, no names ! They're still good friends and to my knowledge, still haven't had any issues with their D35 setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Best to do it all at once and get the angles right.
That's what I figured.

If I set the agles with a 4" spring lift, would I still need a SYE since the distance from the transfer case to differential will be further?
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Unread 10-11-2013, 10:50 PM   #13
coynea
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OK,

Went to the Pick'n'pull & they've got 2 '95-'01 Explorers that still have their rear axle assemblies. One is a 4.10 with an LSD, no calipers. The other is 3.55 with an open diff. Both seem to be in ok shape but I didn't open either one up. Thoughts? I'm an hour north of San Francisco so there aren't many other junkyards around up here that I know of. Should I hold out until I can find a 4.10 with an open carrier? (Keeping in mind of course my current axle assy may be bent and is leaking fluid)
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Unread 10-11-2013, 11:14 PM   #14
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Even with a limited slip, 4.10 is great to have. If your wheeling becomes hardcore later on that you need a locker, go full case anyway.
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Unread 10-12-2013, 08:17 AM   #15
warthog312
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Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Even with a limited slip, 4.10 is great to have. If your wheeling becomes hardcore later on that you need a locker, go full case anyway.
There's your answer, OP.

An LSD is great on the street and in light wheeling, but if you ever go balls out and get into the sh*t with the rig offroad, it will be lacking. Unfortunately, the price of a full case locker is keeping my 8.8 in LSD form.

A little trick that drag racers used to use at the track back in the day; when you rebuild the rear end (if you do, that is) slip an extra clutch shim into the posi assembly and it'll be that much tighter and more willing to spin both tires. It's a fake bullsh*t way to get more traction, and it'll wear your clutches faster, but hey, it works. That's my chosen course of action until I convince my wonderful girlfriend to buy me a Detroit for Christmas


EDIT: and please in the name of all that is sacred, PLEASE, do NOT sink any more money into that Dana 35. Just.... don't.
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