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09-07-2007, 01:11 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 522
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93, 4 Cyl, YJ Valve Cover Leaking = New Valve Cover?!
I am told by the stealership that I must buy a whole new valve cover for my 93, 4 Banger once it starts leaking....Apparently it has a built in gasket that cannot be replaced.
Can I not throw a bead of RTV over the built in gasket and call it done??
Thanks,
Jim
__________________
93YJ 4.8L Vortec,AX15,Atlas 4.3:1, 4.56 Gears, Dana 30 w/ Posi-lok,Dana 44 Rear w/ Ox Locker + 99 Explorer Disk Brakes,Tom Woods D. Shafts,1" Body, 2.5" ED RE Lift, 33" BFG KM2 T/A's with MT Classic II Wheels, Herculined Inside, Electric Fan, 20 Gal Tank Conversion,Tuffy Center Console,Warn Front Bumper, Rockhard 4X4 Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier,Bushwacker Extended Flat Fender Flares,AMSoil/Redline In Everything and the List Goes On....
AND...
88YJ 4.2L: Interior and mechanical overhaul including engine replacement, nutter bypass, Weber 34 Carb, and work on a whole bunch of other things to get it back to fine running condition without the emissions control...evap cannister kept functional as well as PCV system, and manifold heater.
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09-07-2007, 04:28 PM
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#2
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BUILT. NOT BOUGHT.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 5,769
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new rubber gasket, some ultra grey rtv, and proper torque on the bolts and you'll be good to go unless the valve cover is warped or cracked.....
__________________
'89 Wrangler, 4.0/AW4, 106" Wheelbase, SOA, custom XJ packs, 2" Body. Front High Pinion Dana 44 w/yukon super-joints, chromo inners and outers, and a Lincoln Locker. Rear Dana 60 w/Yukon 1.5" 35 Spline chomo shafts and detroit locker. 5.38 Yukon Gears. Hydro-Assist, 39.5x18" Boggers on 15x12 RockKrawler's w/ 2.75" of backspacing. Comp cut, tube fenders, custom bumpers and rock sliders, fuel cell, CB, Stewart Warner Gauges, SmittyBilt XRC8 Winch, 140 Amp CS-144 Alternator, Electric Fan, and a cooler of beer. 3897 lbs
March 1st, 8pm. WILMINGTON, NC MEET & GREET @ HOOTERS!
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09-07-2007, 05:27 PM
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#3
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Got my eye on you.....
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 18,612
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Jim93YJ
I am told by the stealership that I must buy a whole new valve cover for my 93, 4 Banger once it starts leaking....Apparently it has a built in gasket that cannot be replaced.
Can I not throw a bead of RTV over the built in gasket and call it done??
Thanks,
Jim
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You my friend, need to RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN away from that stealership. If they told you for a lousy valve cover,  with bnb btw, what are they gonna tell you for something that is actually a serious problem????
__________________
Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations
Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
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09-07-2007, 06:04 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Gadsden,Al
Posts: 95
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I dont know very much about the 2.5,but Felpro dosnt list a valve cover gasket for the 4cyl.Use some Ultra Black RTV and call it quits..
__________________
98 Cherokee,4.0 Auto,Arb locked Front and Rear,4inch Rustys lift.....
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09-07-2007, 06:32 PM
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#5
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Got my eye on you.....
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 18,612
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Garrard8
I dont know very much about the 2.5,but Felpro dosnt list a valve cover gasket for the 4cyl.Use some Ultra Black RTV and call it quits..
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That is because it is not a cork gasket. It is rubber and sets inside the cover before you install it. PITA IMHO
__________________
Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations
Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
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09-07-2007, 09:15 PM
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#6
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BUILT. NOT BOUGHT.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 5,769
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autozone can get you a cork gasket and they work pretty decent most of the time... but the rubber is a breeeze to install and with that ultra grey rtv it will never leak unless you go and overtorque the bolts causing the gasket to tear and poke out the sides....
__________________
'89 Wrangler, 4.0/AW4, 106" Wheelbase, SOA, custom XJ packs, 2" Body. Front High Pinion Dana 44 w/yukon super-joints, chromo inners and outers, and a Lincoln Locker. Rear Dana 60 w/Yukon 1.5" 35 Spline chomo shafts and detroit locker. 5.38 Yukon Gears. Hydro-Assist, 39.5x18" Boggers on 15x12 RockKrawler's w/ 2.75" of backspacing. Comp cut, tube fenders, custom bumpers and rock sliders, fuel cell, CB, Stewart Warner Gauges, SmittyBilt XRC8 Winch, 140 Amp CS-144 Alternator, Electric Fan, and a cooler of beer. 3897 lbs
March 1st, 8pm. WILMINGTON, NC MEET & GREET @ HOOTERS!
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09-12-2007, 12:51 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 522
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It sounds like the best bet then is for me to run a bead of RTV black or grey over the current molded rubber gasket??
Or should I take off the old rubber molded gasket and then put the RTV on??
Thanks!
__________________
93YJ 4.8L Vortec,AX15,Atlas 4.3:1, 4.56 Gears, Dana 30 w/ Posi-lok,Dana 44 Rear w/ Ox Locker + 99 Explorer Disk Brakes,Tom Woods D. Shafts,1" Body, 2.5" ED RE Lift, 33" BFG KM2 T/A's with MT Classic II Wheels, Herculined Inside, Electric Fan, 20 Gal Tank Conversion,Tuffy Center Console,Warn Front Bumper, Rockhard 4X4 Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier,Bushwacker Extended Flat Fender Flares,AMSoil/Redline In Everything and the List Goes On....
AND...
88YJ 4.2L: Interior and mechanical overhaul including engine replacement, nutter bypass, Weber 34 Carb, and work on a whole bunch of other things to get it back to fine running condition without the emissions control...evap cannister kept functional as well as PCV system, and manifold heater.
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09-12-2007, 01:50 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hatboro, PA
Posts: 248
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The trick with sealant(RTV)
NO! leave the old gasket on. I had a 2.5" with the famous plastic valve cover too. Mine leaked just like your. The thing is just like all the guys told you is DO NOT over torque the bolts.
Here is a trick with using sealant though and it actually says it right on the tube. Of course clean the two surfaces that you are sealing witl a clean rag and some cleaner to get all the oils and grease off of it. Then put you a good bead of sealant on both surfaces, but don't over do it. Then just finger tighten the bolts on the valve cover and let the sealent cure for about at least 4-5 hours. Last, torque down your bolts and put it all back together. (We do the same with helicopter parts that require selanat) If you do this I promise you that it won't leak unless you have a hair-line crack in your valve cover
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09-12-2007, 02:09 PM
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#9
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Got my eye on you.....
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 18,612
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by VaBchReynolds
NO! leave the old gasket on. I had a 2.5" with the famous plastic valve cover too. Mine leaked just like your. The thing is just like all the guys told you is DO NOT over torque the bolts.
Here is a trick with using sealant though and it actually says it right on the tube. Of course clean the two surfaces that you are sealing witl a clean rag and some cleaner to get all the oils and grease off of it. Then put you a good bead of sealant on both surfaces, but don't over do it. Then just finger tighten the bolts on the valve cover and let the sealent cure for about at least 4-5 hours. Last, torque down your bolts and put it all back together. (We do the same with helicopter parts that require selanat) If you do this I promise you that it won't leak unless you have a hair-line crack in your valve cover

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That there is good advice
__________________
Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations
Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
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09-12-2007, 03:31 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 522
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by rustywrangler
That there is good advice 
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I could not agree more
Thanks for the great advice.
Jim
__________________
93YJ 4.8L Vortec,AX15,Atlas 4.3:1, 4.56 Gears, Dana 30 w/ Posi-lok,Dana 44 Rear w/ Ox Locker + 99 Explorer Disk Brakes,Tom Woods D. Shafts,1" Body, 2.5" ED RE Lift, 33" BFG KM2 T/A's with MT Classic II Wheels, Herculined Inside, Electric Fan, 20 Gal Tank Conversion,Tuffy Center Console,Warn Front Bumper, Rockhard 4X4 Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier,Bushwacker Extended Flat Fender Flares,AMSoil/Redline In Everything and the List Goes On....
AND...
88YJ 4.2L: Interior and mechanical overhaul including engine replacement, nutter bypass, Weber 34 Carb, and work on a whole bunch of other things to get it back to fine running condition without the emissions control...evap cannister kept functional as well as PCV system, and manifold heater.
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09-12-2007, 03:33 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hatboro, PA
Posts: 248
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Anytime... Oh as for if you do have a hair-line crack, JCwhitney has the OEM valve covers for cheap. Me, I would get a metal one but I got way too much stuff to do first...
Have a good one...
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