92 YJ Won't start - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 21 Old 03-02-2017, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
spjewell
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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92 YJ Won't start

Haven't been on here in a bit because my YJ was acting up and working good :-D. Hopefully this is an easy solution...

Was driving home from dinner the other day and the jeep cutout and would not start again. Lights, Radio, etc... all still work. Checked all the fuses, they are good as well. Hooked up my starter jumper unit (engages the starter solenoid), and the jeep turns over but it wont run (starter engages and turns).

Turn the key and nothing, starter wont engage or turn. All ACC functions work though.

My thought is that the ignition switch has gone out, I will replace that tomorrow. Anything else you guys would recommend replacing? Anyone else have a similar problem?

looking for a quick fix shotgun approach here, I would like to get out to TDS tomorrow :-D.

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post #2 of 21 Old 03-03-2017, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
spjewell
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Guess there is no such thing as an easy fix on a YJ...

Replaced the ignition switch to no avail. hot wired it and it will crank at the switch, all other functions work from the key so I don't think my problem is there. I did notice that my fuel pump was not priming while all of this was going on, I will investiagate voltages etc... more tomorrow, but was not able to get a good resistance level off the pump, and hooking 12v power to it did not do anything, so I possibly have a bad pump in the mix.

when I turn the key I don't seem to be getting a CEL coming up... noticed this because I was trying to run codes. Could this indicate a bad ECU?
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-03-2017, 06:36 PM
Que89YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spjewell View Post
Guess there is no such thing as an easy fix on a YJ...

Replaced the ignition switch to no avail. hot wired it and it will crank at the switch, all other functions work from the key so I don't think my problem is there. I did notice that my fuel pump was not priming while all of this was going on, I will investiagate voltages etc... more tomorrow, but was not able to get a good resistance level off the pump, and hooking 12v power to it did not do anything, so I possibly have a bad pump in the mix.

when I turn the key I don't seem to be getting a CEL coming up... noticed this because I was trying to run codes. Could this indicate a bad ECU?
How did you hook up the pump? If the cel is not coming on then you need to check voltage. Do you have a meter?

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post #4 of 21 Old 03-03-2017, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
spjewell
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While checking all my wiring I noticed I pinched my fuel pump lines when I re-installed the transfer cased a while back. thinking this was it, i uncovered the wires and some splices fell out. so I removed the crimps and soldered the wires. connected the fuel pump by running jumper cables from the bat to the fuel pump leads.

Voltage reads 11.83 at the bat.
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-06-2017, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
spjewell
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Charged up the battery, it showed a little more than 12v. Still wont crank, no CEL, or fuel pump prime. I believe this would all point to a dead ECM, any other tests I should/could run to confirm?
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-06-2017, 01:38 PM
Que89YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spjewell View Post
Charged up the battery, it showed a little more than 12v. Still wont crank, no CEL, or fuel pump prime. I believe this would all point to a dead ECM, any other tests I should/could run to confirm?
You blew a fuse. You need to check power on pins 3 & 9 on the ECU with the key on.

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post #7 of 21 Old 03-08-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
spjewell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
You blew a fuse. You need to check power on pins 3 & 9 on the ECU with the key on.
Will do, I assume I am looking for 12V. Any idea what fuse? I checked all of the ones under the dash & in the PDM, also replaced all of my relays.
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-09-2017, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
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Charged up the battery, it showed a little more than 12v. Still wont crank, no CEL, or fuel pump prime.
you probably need to be above 12.4V to get a start. Keep charging it if its not, especially while you are messing around with everything else electrical.

I bet you have a ground that went bad. Clean/replace battery cables and connections if you haven't done so recently.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-09-2017, 09:52 AM
Que89YJ
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In my signature there are several great links:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/9...lained-490788/

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post #10 of 21 Old 03-09-2017, 09:41 PM
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Just recently I noticed my right back up light not working. I tested the bulb and even swapped it with the left and it worked along with a spare I had. I had a good ground which was verified with the other lights working because they share the same ground point. I also had a good voltage to that bulb and the other one at 11.9 or so with the switch on and engine not running. I pulled the plug going to it and that measured good voltage also. What we have here is plenty of voltage to light up anything but the problem occurs when you have not enough (amps) CURRENT. I finally pulled a connector a bit up the line used for the trailer wiring and it was corroded enough for proper measured voltage but virtually no (amps) CURRENT to light the bulb. So you may have a corroded or loose wire or connection. The male terminals you can clean with emery cloth but the female connections are quite small so I just used a small drill and spun it with my fingers. Also a voltage drop test will not work in this case. This may or not help you but it is an option. I spent about 2 hours fixing this.
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-11-2017, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Because of the failure mode, I don't think it is corrosion. Drove to dinner, got half way home and it shut down into a no crank, no fuel pump prime, no CEL situation just after leaving the light at the intersection. Corrosion would be more so intermittent, and I should still get a CEL.

Still in the process of trouble shooting, and getting some strange results...

Checked my IGN/Dome fuses... both good, both terminals have power, but when I pull the IGN fuse out my Check engine light comes on, re-install the fuse and the check engine light goes out (I also noticed a buzzer going off? only when the fuse is in). Tried to run codes on it with the fuse out but nothing. Not confirmed yet, but this keeps my focus on a bad computer.

Also jumped the Constant power to the green wire on the connectors and it cranks... but wont do so from my new switch.

Next step is to pull the washer tank and check the pins on the computer... Won't happen for a couple weeks until we get moved and settled into our new house. Jeep is on hold at the moment. I won't be surprised to find a multi point failure here.
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-11-2017, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
spjewell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134 View Post
you probably need to be above 12.4V to get a start. Keep charging it if its not, especially while you are messing around with everything else electrical.

I bet you have a ground that went bad. Clean/replace battery cables and connections if you haven't done so recently.
Charged it for a full day on a trickle charger. Got up to 12.33V. New battery (Optima Red) and wires were installed when I did the engine swap. Maybe 6 months on them, and they are the GM style screw in lugs, not clamp on so they should be less prone to corrosion.
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-12-2017, 09:33 AM
lovett86
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Make sure your main engine ground is good. There is also a cluster of grounds near the ebrake pedal, check those

its a rusty one

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-13-2017, 07:24 AM
dmac5660
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Have you ran it thru any water/mud? This sounds very similar to what happened to mine. all the electrics would come on but engine wouldn't turn over. Sprayed 6-56 lubricant over the plugs in the engine bay and let it sit for about 5 minutes and it fired right up.
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-13-2017, 07:37 AM
Que89YJ
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You need to step back and look at the fault. Your starter and fuel pump both are not working. You have the CEL coming on and going off when you turn the key on correct?
The next step would be checking power on both the start and fuel pump relay pin 30. They should be hot all the time because they are battery fed.

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