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Unread 10-10-2007, 04:40 PM   #1
BRAX
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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92 yj rear main seal replacement Q

hey guys

just got a killer deal on a YJ, the rear main seal is pissing pretty good, prolly a quart a week, anyways, do i need to drop the tranny and clutch? or do i need to do the 2 piece way by pulling just the oil pan?

thanks!

also anyone have any ideas for a hard cold start? fires/turns over 3 times or so when cold to start, when hot it starts/catchs in 1-2 turns, thanks "maybe comp is getting low"

p.s. just did new plugs, checked the rotor caps and wires, new fuel filter as well.

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Unread 10-10-2007, 04:44 PM   #2
rustywrangler
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This would be easier to answer if we knew what motor you have in there.

See the sticky at the top of the YJ section regarding filling out your UserCP.



Now that being said (hoping you go fill it out), Short answer, 4banger= pull tranny to do it, 6 banger is a drop the pan and do the two piece deal.

your starts sound normal to me.
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Unread 10-10-2007, 04:47 PM   #3
BRAX
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sorry bro! heh 4.0! im update'n my profile as we speak
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Unread 10-10-2007, 04:49 PM   #4
rustywrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAX
sorry bro! heh 4.0! im update'n my profile as we speak
In that case, just drop the pan and do the 2 piece seal.
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Unread 10-10-2007, 04:51 PM   #5
BRAX
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oh man that sounds so much nicer than pulling the tranz! )

i need to do the rear transfer output seal as well, it has its own oil correct? "dosent share with the tranz"

looks pretty ez, does it have a drain hole to refil and check fluid level?


thanks bro!
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Unread 10-10-2007, 07:20 PM   #6
kloppk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAX
oh man that sounds so much nicer than pulling the tranz! )

i need to do the rear transfer output seal as well, it has its own oil correct? "dosent share with the tranz"

looks pretty ez, does it have a drain hole to refil and check fluid level?


thanks bro!
The two piece replacement is still tedious and messy.
Be sure to use a BRASS punch (not steel) when removing the old upper seal.
Get yourself a 1 piece pan gasket for the re-install.
Be sure to put the seal in with the correct front to back orientation or it'll leak.
Carefully follow the application of liquid soap, RTV and crank oil in just the right spots for
a trouble and leak free job.

Tcase uses ist's own lube. Actually it's Mercon III ATF fluid. The Red stuff.
The tcase has a fill and drain plug on the back of it - drivers side.
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Unread 10-10-2007, 07:22 PM   #7
kharmajavah
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For the 4.2 - same general idea: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html

For the 4.0 on an XJ - http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp

p.s. - forget the motor mount removal in the 4.2 write-up. My Jeep is a stock set-up, and all we had to do was pull the pain and the rear main bearing cap. Supposedly it helps to loosen the next couple of caps to let the crankshaft drop a tad - helps in getting the top part of the seal out.

Just don't **** up like I did and put the top half in backwards...

...hangover mistake...
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Unread 10-10-2007, 07:29 PM   #8
BRAX
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awesome help guys, thanks so much
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