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91 YJ Restoration w/PICS*
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05-26-2011, 11:15 PM
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#136
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: easton pa, Pennsylvania
Posts: 772
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awsome build so far
i must say it is hard to concentrate on the build with the jeep girls rock picture
__________________
1988 yj ax15 swapped in, 4.2l with a weber,nutterd,ford TFI, and almost every other part replaced
[QUOTE=soonermatt;11578442]This is much different than the JK owners with million of dollars to spend, the TJ owners with excessive accessories, and the fellow YJ builders who make tanks out of jeeps.[/QUOTE]
thank you blackmagicbrakes for the free membership :D
wanna see my jeep's progress? [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/88-yj-slow-build-1219749/[/url]
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05-27-2011, 11:19 AM
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#137
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exige05
I'm no expert, but I replaced mine a year ago with just plain rubber hose from advance auto. Brought the old piece in to get the diameter right, then just bought like 5 feet of it incase I messed up.
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Thanks thats what I though. I'll probably just bring the old hoses in and get them replaced. Thanks
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05-27-2011, 12:56 PM
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#138
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mylightsrsquare
awsome build so far
i must say it is hard to concentrate on the build with the jeep girls rock picture 
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Thanks man
you gotta love those jeep girls
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05-27-2011, 12:58 PM
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#139
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Decided to go with oconee offroad steel yj fenders. They were about the same price as qtec and included free shipping. Im going to try and make a lot of progress the next few weeks or so. Hopefully have 90 % of the build done by a month or two.
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05-27-2011, 06:42 PM
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#140
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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which bump stops do you guys think I should keep. I got the rear and front extended daystar bumpstops from Qtec. I got them in black, but Qtec messed up and gave me black rear and red front. I have to send them back tomorrow, but I am actually liking the red ones. Anyone have any opinions if they will look good or not.
I have red boot covers for my shocks
and black 1inch body mounts and black extended brake lines.
I am sending them back tomorrow so post your opinions if you think the black or red ones will look better
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05-27-2011, 08:08 PM
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#141
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 41.325203,-74.794091
Posts: 87
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Just finished reading reading your thread front to back....first thing....good luck and the frame looks good.
Second, I would continue with the red theme with the bump stops. But it's up to you.
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05-28-2011, 09:12 PM
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#142
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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just picked up a welder... My uncle has a ton of old tools in his garage which I have been mooching off of. Unfortunately the welder he had in ther had seen better days. I decided to sell it for barely anything and just borrow a friend of mines. My friend has a 90amp welder from harbor freight:
This one: http://www.harborfreight.com/interes...der-98871.html
It got the job done but he already had to return it for a new one because it broke on me.
So today...considering its memorial day weekend and I am sitting at home alone suffering after sinus surgery I decided to buy my self a welder.
I went with this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...6&blockType=G6
Its on sale now at sears online store and got free shipping with the memorialday coupon code. I figured it was a good time to get my own welder. Since doing this resto my tool collection has increased tremendously. It is one of the pluses for doing this. I am learning a crazy amount. I have no previous welding experience and only had someone show me once how I should do it. The way I look at it is I am spending a ton of money on this restoration for a car I can appreciate and say I built, for future knowledge on cars and tools, and for tools that I will have hopefully for long times to come.
Happy memorial day weekend fellas and ladies
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05-29-2011, 01:37 PM
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#143
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Jeep GIRLS
Well I thought this was a good time for some jeep girls pics...
Since ya'll been lovin my jeep girl avatar here are some more for everyones enjoyment. If ya have any good ones that you can find feel free to post em. I think its better to keep it PG-13 in here FYI. No Nudes lol
 
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05-29-2011, 01:39 PM
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#144
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Some more..
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05-30-2011, 12:53 AM
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#145
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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On a serious note... I really do need help choosing what I need to get here. I have read all over and asked a bunch of people will little luck. I need to know what Shims I need to get for my back axle for my 2 inch bds suspension lift and one inch shackle lift.
here are the shims I'm talking about...
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/warrior...ring-shims.htm
You can not really tell with these pictures, but its the best I could do. One is of the spring to axle connection and the space between them where I need the shim. The other two show you what happens when I twist the axle (as if to put a shim in). The first one shows when no shim is in and the second pic shows how it would be with a shim in. There is a noticeable different. I hope these pics can help you help me
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05-30-2011, 11:52 AM
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#146
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 41.325203,-74.794091
Posts: 87
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If I'm not mistaken (which I may be), you don't want your yoke and drive shaft to be perfectly straight at ride height. You want your yoke pointing at your t-case at full droop.
From the second picture (first of the yoke) it doesn't look like you need the shims.
Search for info on "setting your pinion angle".
__________________
96 Cherokee lifted, shoes, blah, blah, blah
89 YJ stock resto project
Coal Region 4x4
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05-30-2011, 07:37 PM
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#147
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Potosi, Wisconsin
Posts: 309
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You want the u-joint at the back of the driveshaft to be at the same angle as the u-joint at the front. Or to put it a different way, the output yoke on the transfer case needs to be parallel with the yoke on the rear end. If you keep both joints bent the same, it won't vibrate. If one joint is bent and one is straight it will vibrate and eat joints.
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05-30-2011, 07:55 PM
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#148
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Potosi, Wisconsin
Posts: 309
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I also wanted to say way to go on jumping in and tackling this build. It's good to see people who just do it and learn on the way. I can tell by reading this you aren't scared to tackle new things. Congrats on the new Hobart welder, I have the 185 model and really like it.
Can't wait to read your first post after you are able to wheel this thing knowing you built it. That will be a great feeling for you.
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05-30-2011, 08:43 PM
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#149
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerdude
I also wanted to say way to go on jumping in and tackling this build. It's good to see people who just do it and learn on the way. I can tell by reading this you aren't scared to tackle new things. Congrats on the new Hobart welder, I have the 185 model and really like it.
Can't wait to read your first post after you are able to wheel this thing knowing you built it. That will be a great feeling for you.
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Thanks for the kind words
Everyone thinks Im nuts for doing this. My pops keep yelling at me everytime I took something new off the car. He is starting too come around on it though. Trust me it will be a great day the first time I get this baby out
Thanks for the a
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05-30-2011, 08:44 PM
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#150
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orland Park, illinois
Posts: 271
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Thanks for the advice
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