90 YJ with weber idle issues - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-19-2013, 04:26 PM   #1
Squarelight
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sout Paris, ME
Posts: 3
90 YJ with weber idle issues

Hey everyone I have a 1990 Yj with a weber 34/36 and I had a leak at the base so I tighted the bolts and now I have an idle that is surging from 3000rpm-stall and I adjusted the fast idle screw, and idle screw,mixture screw and everything nothing changed. I just finished replacing the coil,plugs,cap,rotor button, distributer and the ICM and the timing is not set yet cause I can't get a good idle to set it? Any help would be great please!!!!

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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:57 PM   #2
jimbos76cj
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 434
Id put money on another leak.. If you over tightened it maybe you broke an ear off the carb? with it running spray the area around the base wit hcarb cleaner or if your ballsy some started fuid. If the Idle changes then you have a leak. If it ran better prior to tightening it then Im pretty sure its now a bigger leak. Could you have knocked a hose loose while trying to tighten it?

You may want to remove the carb and check the gasket. I would also take a flat edge to the base of the carb and check for flatness and cracks.
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 10:38 PM   #3
Squarelight
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Thanks for the heads up I did tighten it pretty tight so I will pull it off and check it tomorrow, I did the nutter today with no change!
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Unread 10-21-2013, 01:38 PM   #4
jimbos76cj
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 434
I would fix that vacuum leak before you change any thing else. with the bypass I think you have to change the timing which you wont be able to do until it will idle good for you. The Bypass should have been done when the weber was installed. Also look into changing your rotor and cap to one from a 82 ford F-150 with the 300 motor in it. You will need cap, rotor and adapter. THe cap is bigger and they say it will prevent cross firing of the sparks by the rotor. .
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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Unread 10-24-2013, 01:49 PM   #5
Squarelight
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sout Paris, ME
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Sure enough the studs were tightened to much that it was lifting one of the plates causing an air leak! Thank you somuch for your help I will look for the cap and rotor any idea where I get the adapter?
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Unread 10-24-2013, 07:15 PM   #6
jimbos76cj
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 434
Same place where you get the cap and rotor. Jeep uses the ford distributor. Ford used the adapter and wider cap where jeep felt it wasn't needed. Ask for all 3 parts with brass terminals. Try to get one that not black.
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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