I recently purchase a 1990 yj with a 2.5 that had really bad blow by. I almost wanted to hook a whistle up to the oil cap just to hear the tune it would play.
I found a 1995 2.5 out of a wrangler for dirt cheap, and always wanted to try my hand at a rebuild. All seemed to go well, it turned out this newer engine had already been rebuilt. I didn't touch the cam, crank or timing chain. Replaced the rod bearings and oil pump closed her up and swapped all my 90's parts onto it.
I read somewhere that the 90 flywheel and the 95 were not interchangeable so I bought a new 95 flywheel. It looked identical to the 90. Regardless I installed it, dropped the engine in. Everything hooked right up with no issues.
Problem is there is no fuel whatsoever entering the intake. 20 seconds bursts of trying to start it 4 times with a little rest in between and the intake is bone dry. I am thinking I may have made a mistake using the newer flywheel because the crank position sensor is also different between 90 and 95.
Maybe its nothing to do with the flywheel as you stated they looked identical. If the crank sensor notches were the same, then you should be good there. Seems like you may just have a fuel delivery problem unrelated to the flywheel.
If the crank sensor notches were located differently, then that's a problem.
Today I will begin removing the engine to swap the flywheel back to the original. I hate that I have to do it but it was a great learning experience as far as crank position sensors go. I come from a different time when these sort of sensors didn't exist.
When I said the flywheels looked identical I was referring to the teeth and diameter. I didn't realize that the monster plate attached to the flywheel was something that needed attention. The 90 flywheel reads 12 notches before TDC and the 95 reads 4 notches to determine TDC.
Theres no question that if the crank sensor notches are wrong on the flywheel for your jeep, you will not be going anywhere with it. It wont work. You can just pull the transmission out, probably not necessary to pull the whole engine again, unless its easier for you to do it that way.
Yep, you needed the 90 fly wheel to sequence the crank sensor correctly. The 90 is a TBI so you are dealing with 1 injector, when the 95 is MPFI so you are syncing 4 injectors. The crank sensor is used for injector pulses.....but I guess you figured it out before MSF and I posted.
I just disconnected the starter remove the motor mounts and some of the vacuum lines that didn't have a lot of stretching room and parted the engine and trans enough to drop the flywheel out... Now just need to wait till I get a second pair of hands to hold the crank still to get the flywheel off.