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89 YJ NO Start/No Crank (VIDEOS)

13K views 14 replies 2 participants last post by  mike134 
#1 ·
So i just had my ignition control module replaced because my YJ would stop on me while running and afterward not turn on (turn the key, clicking noise, engine won't start)..fixed that.

So one day after driving fine for many weeks I try to turn my car on and there is no clicking of the starter. car won't start.

I check my battery is working by testing the headlights for dimming when i turn the ignition. The battery is fine. I'm thinking its the starter but i keep hitting solenoid with no results. (I just ordered a new starter, it's on its way. I hope it solves my problem)

On another note. I recently checked my engine oil and from the levels, i saw on the dipstick, I have to add more oil.

Everything I'm writing here I describe in the videos BTW if you guys don't feel like reading.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4wK4YF281JODJfyq2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6NgAZn0vf3xeDt3o2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hJKr2Ma1CQGax2JD2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fFxtJCDLOrOTWvr83

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wuCrOxLSNHNbrROr2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/S84R9huneC95U7Ff1
 
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#3 ·
"Jumping a Starter with a Bad Solenoid
It is possible to jump a starter by circumventing a defective solenoid and directly delivering a surge of electric current from the battery. To do this, get a screwdriver with a long shaft and an insulated rubber handle. Touch the blade of the screwdriver to the post leading to the starter. This post is a large bolt and a thick battery cable leading to the solenoid. Touch the shaft of the screwdriver to both of the terminals leading out of the solenoid. Have the driver turn the ignition and start the car.

This connection turns the screwdriver into a makeshift switch that short circuits electric current from the battery to the starter motor. If the starter engages and cranks the engine, it confirms that the solenoid is bad. Make sure not to touch any metal parts either on the screwdriver or the engine block. Shut down the engine and quickly remove the screwdriver. If left for too long, the electric current arc welds the screwdriver to the solenoid's terminals."

is that what you're describing ?
 
#5 ·
yes. Basically touch the screw driver (or jumper cables if you prefer) to the post with the big fat red wire and the post with the green wire.

Ignition in the ON position.

Wear safety goggles as sparks will fly.
Im slow when it comes to cars. but this video really broke it down for me.



Im about to go and try it out now.
 
#7 ·
You really can't go too wrong here, but I'd like you to test shorting the big red wire (Labeled 'Main Power') to the green wire (labeled 'Feed Wire'):

Your starter will look like this:



Touching the big posts together will bypass the starter solenoid. But that doesn't tell you too much, because you generally replace the solenoid with the starter as a package. But if you connect the big red wire post to the green wire post and it starts, that means you have a bad relay, or bad ignition switch, or bad ground, or bad signal wiring, or a combination of all of the above. It really helps narrow things down.

Note: The green wire may not look green after 29 years below the vehicle.
 
#8 ·
You really can't go too wrong here, but I'd like you to test shorting the big red wire (Labeled 'Main Power') to the green wire (labeled 'Feed Wire'):

Your starter will look like this:



Touching the big posts together will bypass the starter solenoid. But that doesn't tell you too much, because you generally replace the solenoid with the starter as a package. But if you connect the big red wire post to the green wire post and it starts, that means you have a bad relay, or bad ignition switch, or bad ground, or bad signal wiring, or a combination of all of the above. It really helps narrow things down.

Note: The green wire may not look green after 29 years below the vehicle.
I did that in the video. No start. No crank
 
#9 ·
Sounds good. It is pointing towards bad starter, but just a few more things to check:

1.) Just check that your gauges power up when you turn your ignition key from OFF to ON. and report back. As long as your gauges are powering up with the ignition, then you are PROBABLY good to go on the ignition switch.

2.) Clean your battery connections and ground connections. Basically remove the wires at the battery terminals and clean them with a wire brush. Remove the other side of the big black battery wire that connects to the engine block, clean the engine block and wire connector with a wire brush. Reassemble. Try starting. 25 year old dirty connections are a VERY common cause of no start conditions.

3.) Use a jumper cable from the Battery + to the terminal with the big red wire on the starter. Try to start. This ensures that the starter power wire is not corroded internally.

4.) Use a jumper cable from the battery - to the terminal where the black ground wire goes. Try to start. This ensures that the ground wire is not corroded internally.


If nothing above works, then you probably made the correct choice on the new starter!
 
#10 ·
Sounds good. It is pointing towards bad starter, but just a few more things to check:

1.) Just check that your gauges power up when you turn your ignition key from OFF to ON. and report back. As long as your gauges are powering up with the ignition, then you are PROBABLY good to go on the ignition switch.

2.) Clean your battery connections and ground connections. Basically remove the wires at the battery terminals and clean them with a wire brush. Remove the other side of the big black battery wire that connects to the engine block, clean the engine block and wire connector with a wire brush. Reassemble. Try starting. 25 year old dirty connections are a VERY common cause of no start conditions.

3.) Use a jumper cable from the Battery + to the terminal with the big red wire on the starter. Try to start. This ensures that the starter power wire is not corroded internally.

4.) Use a jumper cable from the battery - to the terminal where the black ground wire goes. Try to start. This ensures that the ground wire is not corroded internally.

If nothing here works, then you probably.
Did #1 and the guages moved. just have to do 2-4 and i'll tell u how it goes.
 
#12 ·
Its actually not a bad idea to just put new battery cables in anyway. They really get crappy after 25 years or so. brand new 4 gauge wires cost about $7 each at autozone. You need 3 of them. (1 ground, and two hot).

Good luck!
My electrical system is so crazy from the previous owner, I'm almost afraid to get into it right now. Fixed the problem with a new starter. Car idles quieter at lower RPM's now. That's crazy :)
 
#13 ·
The starter doesn't have anything to do with the car idling better. But cleaning the battery cables may have improved it greatly!!

People buy all sorts of nonsense contraptions to try to 'GETZ MOREZ SPARKKKK!!!', But the best thing you can do for hotter spark is to clean all of the main wire terminals. It's basically as if you did a tuneup.
 
#14 ·
yea! my mechanic cleaned the terminals and replaced an oil pump gasket (he claims that's where the oil leak in the video was coming from)

Mike your help was invaluable. Thank You
 
#15 ·
Add cleaning the connections to your maintenance routine. The "lube stops" don't do this for $8 or whatever. My routine is kept simple, at every oil change interval:

Change oil and filter,
Check all other fluid levels
Grease zerk fittings until grease comes out the bushing
5 tire rotation (although I'm skipping this now since its almost time for new tires)
clean grounds and battery terminals
Check/re-Torque exhaust manifold bolts (the two in the rear ALWAYS loosen).

About every two years:
New spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor.
 
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