post #1 of Old 12-31-2011, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
WnxMike
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Coos Bay
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89 Clutch fluid location? clutch trouble

I have an 1989 Wrangler Sahara and the clutch is stiff, i have to turn off the jeep to put it in the gear i want (to reverese i have to turn off the jeep then put it in reverse or else theres a clanking/ bussing noise) gears grinding? idk. i have never checked the clutch fluid levels and i was told that it could be the issue. when i get going tho it usually shifts fine kinda. i know nothing of car mechanics unfortinatly, so any information you guys share i would be very appreciative.

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post #2 of Old 12-31-2011, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
WnxMike
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Also where is the clutch fluid location? and i heard i might have to "bleed it" explain that if you could.
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post #3 of Old 12-31-2011, 03:49 PM
Mark05059
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clutch master is beside the brake booster on the firewall.

1998 ZJ 5.2 Auto

1989 Wrangler Black Bone Stock 2.5l 5spd
/l , [____],
|---L--[]lllllll[]-
()_) ()_)==O=)_)
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post #4 of Old 01-01-2012, 12:20 PM
NonRubicon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WnxMike View Post
I have an 1989 Wrangler Sahara and the clutch is stiff, i have to turn off the jeep to put it in the gear i want (to reverese i have to turn off the jeep then put it in reverse or else theres a clanking/ bussing noise) gears grinding? idk. i have never checked the clutch fluid levels and i was told that it could be the issue. when i get going tho it usually shifts fine kinda. i know nothing of car mechanics unfortinatly, so any information you guys share i would be very appreciative.
The clutch on the YJ is normally on the stiffer side (gets a bit tiresome for city stop-and-go driving), but it shouldn't require straining to depress the pedal. If you find that you have to really work to push the pedal down, you might have a problem with the master cylinder, slave cylinder or the clutch plate assembly. Bleeding is typically what you do if the pedal is too soft or if you have problems engaging the forward gears. Any air bubbles in the hydraulic fluid are compressible, but the hydraulic fluid isn't. So air bubbles absorb the pressure sent from the clutch pedal instead of sending it to the clutch plate assembly. That makes for a soft clutch. It you can't send enough pressure to completely disengage the clutch plate from the flywheel, you'll have problems putting it into forward gears. An easy test for air in the hydraulics is to pump the clutch several times before shifting - if the problem goes away, then you have air in the line.

The reverse gear though, is not synchronized like the forward gears, so you may sometimes get gear clash (grinding) if things aren't lined up close enough. This is normal, or at least expected to happen on occasion for unsynchronized gears. To prevent this, try putting the shifter into a forward gear (try any of them) before putting it in reverse - this sometimes will get the gears lined up close enough to eliminate or at least minimize gear clash/grinding. I do this out of habit with my Jeep. Sometimes I hear a single clink or clank as the gears engage, and only rarely do I get a buzzy grind.
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post #5 of Old 01-01-2012, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
WnxMike
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The clutch is not hard to push down at all, and not to soft i don't believe. It will shift into 3rd and forth bout first and second i feel like imma break something if i try and force it in there. When i turn off the jeep (with the battery on) it will shift into any gear easily (but not reverse) but yes the forward gears are not engaging as they should.
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post #6 of Old 01-01-2012, 08:41 PM
NonRubicon
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From what you describe I would guess that the clutch plate isn't fully disengaging from the flywheel.

"Bleeding" refers to getting any air out of the clutch hydraulic line. This is done by opening the bleed valve at the slave cylinder and having a helper pumping the clutch a few times to force the fluid and bubbles out of the line, then quickly closing the valve again (while the clutch is depressed) so that air does not get sucked back into the line. Repeat until the clutch pressure and shifting behavior is back to normal. You also need to keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it topped off with new fluid as necessary (it drops really quick), or else you just end up with more air in the line.

The first step though in dealing with clutch/shifting problems is to check the fluid level. For the YJ, the clutch reservoir is located on the firewall, driver side, just under the grill support rod. There should be level indicators on the outside of the reservoir, but if you really want to be sure you'll need to remove the cap. In order to remove the cap you'll need to remove the grill support rod.

Next step is to perform a bleed.

If bleeding doesn't solve the problem with shifting, then there is likely a mechanical failure of the master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch plate assembly or a problem with the sychronizer gears in the transmission.

I had a similar problem to what you've described, although with a transmission on a Ford Ranger. In my case though it would start to act up only after the transmission warmed up. Turned out to be a problem with the clutch plate assembly.
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post #7 of Old 01-01-2012, 08:49 PM
codymiguel
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I think you are saying that you are having a problem finding the bleeder for the slave. If so you need to just fallow the line that goes into your tranny, The bleeder will be above the the line in.

I have been having a similar problem with my 89 Yj, deal is different than what most are use to due to the internal slave, also if you have to replace it you must open the tranny.
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