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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:40 PM   #31
1hand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArticRubi View Post
Cool stuff! I like where this is going. I'm in the midst of a one ton swap, stretch, and comp cut on my JK and it's looking like I'm going to exceed my finish date of May 1st so I've been shopping YJ's for a bit and found this guy:


'88 4.2/BA-10 with 98k on the clock, looks very good in the rust department. I'm going to do a spring lift and revolver shackle upgrade and throw some 33's on it so I can wheel until the JK is done. Once the big fella is finished I'll be going similar to the route you're going, T18/D300, build a set of 44's, and do a full body off resto....of course painting it stone white to match the JK I'd like to do EFI but it's a pretty expensive upgrade! I'll be watching your thread, keep up the good work!

If you're interested you can check out my JK build here.
Sweet!!!! Actually I enjoy doing this fab work, and thinking I would like to learn more and try some major DIY mods in the future. Everything I had planned to do was mostly bolt on accessories, and spendy ones at that.

I think I have talked myself into getting a JD tubing Bender and Notcher, and fabrication all my stuff myself. Also going off the deep end and fabricating up a full blown coil-over linked suspension..............Bam!

So I will be checking your JK thread for sure. I might need some Measurements from ya!

Matt

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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:32 PM   #32
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You'll be happy with a JD2, I have a Model 32 with a few dies and an air over hydraulic ram, it's pretty awesome. I decided to go with a Baleigh TN-250 for the notcher, it's honestly a better design than what JD has and price is pretty much a wash. I would have liked a Baleigh or tube shark bender too but.... sticker shock!

I'm guessing the bulk of the build is going to be starting up late in the Fall season for me. I have a line (6 hours after purchase) on a few good candidates for an axle swap locally, such as an HP30/8.25 4.10 open/open from an XJ for $550. If that or something similar works out soon where it's not much more than weld on some spring plates and bolt in, I'm going to jump on it. I'll handle gears and lockers when I take it off the road for the full resto. Definitely a big piece of mind for wheeling 33's.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 04:21 PM   #33
1hand
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I'm really new to all this. So changing to a linked suspension, I will need to maybe reconsider my diff thoughts. The 8.8 is probably still OK for the rear, but D30 might be a little light for the front?

Just been searching link conversions for YJ's and came across GenRights stuff. Looks like you can buy bits a pieces there, and build what you can instead of just buying a whole kit.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 05:19 PM   #34
ArticRubi
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The 30 may indeed be a bit light for the front but there's certainly some debate on that issue, the axle shaft u-joints are going to be the weak link. My current philosophy/plan is to go with the first functional available HP30 and 8.25 or 8.8 I can get my hands on and just wheel it on it's current gears open/open. I've been back and forth with a guy locally who has an HP30/8.25 with 4.10's who I've beaten down to $400 now. I can swap those in and then get to work on building a set of Waggy 44's how I want them. Of course, I've only owned the YJ for about 8 hours now, and my plans at times are about as reliable as a fart in the wind. I may find after beating on the 30/8.8 setup for a summer that's it'll suit my needs just fine and just lock and gear them over the winter.

As far as the building a linked suspension, you'll be hard pressed to beat it. I certainly wouldn't spring for the whole GenRight setup, but it would certainly make life easier on you to get the frame and axle brackets from them (and their set of instructions!) You could then source DOM for the links locally and order your joints from wherever you want. Joints, DOM....not frikkin cheap. I just ordered sixteen 2.5" Johnny Joints at about $725. DOM isn't cheap either, I had to get some 1.5" .120 wall to build my shock towers with and it was $155 per 20' stick! You'll need to do your lower control arms out of 2" .250 wall at a minimum. I ended up deciding to get some cheap 1.5" schedule 40 black pipe (about $1 per foot) to mock up my suspension, then I'm having a local machine shop build my links for me out of 2" 7075-T6 solid aluminum. The good thing about the GenRight setup is it's a very well thought out system and the guess work is largely taken out of the scenario. That could either be a positive or negative thing for you, depends on ambition really.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 06:17 PM   #35
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As long as I can get some good direction, I should be OK I hope.

For the ambition, I lost my left arm 6 years ago in a work accident with a rock crusher. I still wanted to fix and work on stuff, so I designed a prosthetic wrist that locks in 18,000 different positions, and a line of tools to go with it. I didn't know anything about machining but had a idea for this wrist, so a bought a lathe and mill put it in the basement and taught myself off the internet til I built what I wanted from scratch. Now my little mill and lathe are cnc now due to conversions I built myself from scratch. Like I said before, I don't know much if anything about this yet, but I know I want one. So hopefully you guys can help get me going towards the right direction.

This is the other thing I do on the side, but I do still crush rocks at my day job.
http://www.midwestprocad.com/locking-wrists/

Matt
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Unread 02-28-2013, 06:23 PM   #36
Ripper3494
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looks great, awesome quality of work
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 02-28-2013, 06:26 PM   #37
1hand
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When you say HP30, you mean High Pinion dana 30 like i have right?

I'm just wondering if I truss it and stick in the 30 spline good Superior axles some 35's with an aussie and giver hell till she breaks??? what do ya think
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Unread 02-28-2013, 10:33 PM   #38
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Looks like the GenRights "builders" kits will be enough of a challenge for me. Enough laid out to keep me on target, but enough fitting and welding to keep me interested.

I'm interested in the

4 Link Rear Kit, with Links
3 Link Front Kit, with Links
Hi Steer Knuckle, D30
CrMo Hi Steering Kit
Outboard Rear Shock Mount Kit
Coilover Shock Hoop Kit, Front


Build the heck out of the D30....truss it?
Build up a 8.8......truss it?

Tires 35's.......????? I still want to fit in my 7' high garage door.


Get a bender and fab:

Full cage
Front and rear bumpers/ stingers
tube fenders front and rear
side armor
Top rack if there is room
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Unread 03-01-2013, 09:08 AM   #39
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Definitely getting onto a slippery slope here

To address the axles, the 30 and 8.8 you have should be fine (and by HP, I did mean high pinion.) It's a good combo to run up to 35's, but carry some spare u-joints - you will break them periodically. However....

Do some research on what it takes in terms of axle width to run outboard shocks. I think on YJ's and TJ's you're fine just to french them into the frame, on my JK I have to run full width axles because the outside of the frame and the tub are flush. Might be that sa nice axle swap would be a set of axles from a JK - 65" wide.
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Unread 03-01-2013, 09:25 AM   #40
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I haven't bought any thing yet, so I can swap anything in there. Are JK's both 44's front and rear?
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Unread 03-01-2013, 09:34 AM   #41
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not a JK person at all but I think JUST the unlimited have the 44 and the front was still an option I think

rubicon TJ have 44 rears as well..
the 88 is a great swap I just finished mine last fall.... pretty painless, sits nice, cant even tell the diff in width.... and some will say its every bit as good as a 44
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Unread 03-01-2013, 09:40 AM   #42
ArticRubi
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JK's are high pinion 30 front and 44 rear unless you get them from a rubicon which have a 44 front. Rubicons also have factory lockers. Some 2007 JK's had a D35 rear so be wary of that.

I'm actually feeling like a bit of an asshat, I sold the 44's from my '08 rubicon. They were built very nicely with 4.88's, RCV's in the front and chromo rear shafts, high steer knuckles, quality ball joints, and trussed front and rear. Would have been a cool swap for the YJ. That said I did get $4500 for them. I am going on sunday to pick up a set of 44's from a late 80's wagoneer for $450 that just need gears and lockers so ultimately I'll come out cheaper....but damn!
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Unread 03-01-2013, 10:00 AM   #43
1hand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArticRubi View Post
JK's are high pinion 30 front and 44 rear unless you get them from a rubicon which have a 44 front. Rubicons also have factory lockers. Some 2007 JK's had a D35 rear so be wary of that.

I'm actually feeling like a bit of an asshat, I sold the 44's from my '08 rubicon. They were built very nicely with 4.88's, RCV's in the front and chromo rear shafts, high steer knuckles, quality ball joints, and trussed front and rear. Would have been a cool swap for the YJ. That said I did get $4500 for them. I am going on sunday to pick up a set of 44's from a late 80's wagoneer for $450 that just need gears and lockers so ultimately I'll come out cheaper....but damn!
Are them Waggy 44's wider than stock YJ's? And aren't the front passenger side input? Wouldn't you need a different Tcase for that set-up?

You seem to be very knowledgeable on this stuff, and if you where me, and wanted a linked YJ, what axles would you put under it. I will spend a little money, but not going to spring for 60's or custom 9" housings. What would you do in my shoes...............
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Unread 03-01-2013, 10:27 AM   #44
ArticRubi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hand View Post

Are them Waggy 44's wider than stock YJ's? And aren't the front passenger side input? Wouldn't you need a different Tcase for that set-up?

You seem to be very knowledgeable on this stuff, and if you where me, and wanted a linked YJ, what axles would you put under it. I will spend a little money, but not going to spring for 60's or custom 9" housings. What would you do in my shoes...............
Waggy D44's from '80 - '91 vehicles are driver side drop and measure about 60" WMS - WMS, makes them a great candidate for any CJ, YJ, or TJ swap. You'll want to avoid some of the ones from the early 80's as they have vacuum disconnects.

I would honestly say since you already have an HP30 and 8.8, go with it. If you went with RCV's in your 30 that would be a pretty bulletproof setup if you're staying at 35" tires or less. I wouldn't gear any deeper than 4.56 on the 30 because the pinion gets really small.

The advantage to going to a D44 is with some money and work you can upgrade to 35 spline inner shafts, definitely a plus.

60's are really nice, but you should be running at least a 37" tire. They also get expensive even for junkyard builds. I'll be running 40" stickies on my JK so I went with 70" wide HP 60's.

Here's a bit of eye candy for you.....


forumrunner_20130301_112653.jpg
forumrunner_20130301_112621.jpg  
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Unread 03-01-2013, 10:48 AM   #45
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Nice!!!

I just have the stock D30/35 right now, but sounds like I can take my chances on building the hell out of the 30, and swapping in the 8.8 like I had first thought. Which will get buildt up too.

As for the out board shocks, I will get them to fit how ever possible, if I have to french them into the frame/tub so be it. I like cutting and welding.

I'll start looking around for a 8.8
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