88 YJ help in Ga. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-20-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: CANTON GA
Posts: 5
88 YJ help in Ga.

I recently purchased a 88 yj I knew it needed a carb so I bought a M/C 2150 from the ebay guy. Well fast forward a month I had a technician work on it
well needless to say it's still not running right although it does run better than when I got it. Cut to the chase I am looking for someone in the North Atlanta area (Woodstock/ Canton) area that might be willing to help me hammer it out. I think it is mainly vaccum lines and i am also having some problems from everything i have read with the shift linkage (auto 4.2) I would also like to perform the nutter bypass on it. I am willing to pay for someone's time to show me I want to learn about this thing and guide me in the right direction of getting this thing tuned correctly. Thanks in advance .

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post #2 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 01:30 PM
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How about we walk you thru it? TOO simple.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 02:07 PM
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2017 JK Wrangler 
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Location: Atlantic County
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This sounds all to familiar to me. I recently bought an 87 that wasn't running right. I was sure it was the carb. I cleaned out the tubes and it ran worse. I changed PCV, PCV to carb hose, breather filter... Then it wouldn't even start up.

Someone suggested I do a tune up so I changed spark plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor (didn't get to the coil yet). It fires right up and runs strong and smooth now. Did the technition do a tune up?
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: CANTON GA
Posts: 5
Jeeps4me, Any help would be appreciated its a mess as it stands. Any pictures of a setup of the vacuum lines with the motorcraft setup would be awesome. I am more of a hands on person.
Garden, He claims he did a lot that I have found out he didn't. Basically what he thought would work and could get away with he did. He decided on the Carb. it didnt need the return spring or bracket that the ebay guy sent in the box. That's just the tip of the iceberg with this guy. It's very frustrating.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 02:56 PM
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1990 CJ7 
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Location: Ga
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Best thing to do is return it to stock and get it running right. Then do the nutter. Get it running right again, then do the carb swap.

What you have now will take far longer to get right, but it can be done, as well.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 03:12 PM
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Only vacuum you need is the 1 going to brake booster and the other to the distributor and the one that pulls on the valve cover.. Seal all the others.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 03:42 PM
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
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your stock vehicle had a computer controlled carburetor connected to a bunch of sensors and pollution controls. Once you removed the stock carb, you effectively prevented any effective control of the engine by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU or computer). Now, anything connected to your ECU can be removed as it no longer is in use (that includes all the vacuum lines except for your feed to the heater, the distributor, the brake booster and your 4wd disconnect). Simply put, the computer (after things warmed up) read the O2 sensor and then varied the air fuel mixture by way of the carb. The computer also controlled spark advance somewhat, as well as a bunch of other pollution items. Read about it here. There are detailed drawings of the stock vacuum line setup on that page.
The suggestion about going back to stock and getting things working, then removing the computer and its associated stuff (nuttering) from the equation, and then installing a new carb, was not that bad of a suggestion. Right now you don't really know if the engine wasn't running right due to needing a proper tune up, or because something in the stock setup was bad. you also may be chasing that stuff while you need to adjust your carb and timing at the same time. It will be quite difficult to figure out which way to go.

In all likelihood the major problem with your stock setup was probably related to leaking vacuum lines and a needed tuneup. Possibly the stepper motor in your carb failed, or the carb just needed a rebuild. As long as your carb didn't require replacement getting it running right would not entail that much effort, but that's only speculation. Several years ago I was in your place and headed the same direction, pulled off the carb and then labored to get it running right with replacement. After several months and untold hours of messing with a weber I removed it and fuel injected the engine. I haven't looked back since. Lots of choices out there for you and you will be able to get lots of suggestions. What you need to do is figure out which direction you want to go and then we can help.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 04:30 PM
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
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Location: west palm beach fl
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heres a video on how your vacuum lines should be run with the motorcraft carb

theres also a video on the nutter bypass on you tube.

Do everything with a positive attitude, it won't always work but you'll piss enough people off to make it worthwhile.

the voices aren't real but they sure have good ideas.
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: CANTON GA
Posts: 5
Thanks for all the feedback . The only reason for a replacement carb is the PO had a small carb fire where it melted the choke and burned where the stepper plugged in at. I am going to keep chasing the problem as it arises. I do have it running halfway decent idling and just puttering around another issue I am facing is it doesn't want to shift when accelerating especially pulling up a hill under a load. I am hoping its just the linkage needs to be adjusted. Again I appreciate everyone's help and will start giving everything the once over again .
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