'88 YJ 5.3L Vortec Build Thread - Page 8 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > '88 YJ 5.3L Vortec Build Thread

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Unread 03-05-2010, 06:36 PM   #106
fatwreck
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Location: ottawa, il
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So, I got mine running tonight....with throttle this time.

It turns out that I had a broken wire right at connector for the pedal...not the throttle body like the TSB said. In the process of trying to diagnose it all....I did some continuity tests and came across it. I fixed the wire and plugged it in...and it worked like it was supposed to. That was causing some serious stress in my world.

Time to move on to gauges.

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Unread 03-14-2010, 08:11 PM   #107
fatwreck
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Video of it running. Note...it's throwing 2 codes regarding one of my oxygen sensors. I think that is why it is running rough and smoking some. Any insight?
YouTube - 1988 YJ with a 5.3L Vortec engine
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Unread 03-15-2010, 08:51 AM   #108
1 ton yj
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first before anything you need to figure out why it's throwing a code and fix it. It'll never ever ever run right as long as that light is on.

Second, your computer has been unplugged for a while. It's normal to run rough on first startup after something like this. The computer has memory so it needs to run rough for 10 or 15 minutes or however long it takes to learn the idle mixture and iac position.

Who did you tune and what exactly did they do to it?
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Unread 03-15-2010, 08:58 AM   #109
fatwreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 ton yj View Post
first before anything you need to figure out why it's throwing a code and fix it. It'll never ever ever run right as long as that light is on.

Second, your computer has been unplugged for a while. It's normal to run rough on first startup after something like this. The computer has memory so it needs to run rough for 10 or 15 minutes or however long it takes to learn the idle mixture and iac position.

Who did you tune and what exactly did they do to it?

That was not the first start up. I've ran it for more than 15 minutes at this point. I'll get the O2 sensor figured out and go from there.

wait4meperformance did the tune and I really don't know what they did to it. I have a friend with hptuners and we took a look at some of the items, but neither of us really knew what to look for.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 10:05 AM   #110
73Dart
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Shelby, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 ton yj View Post
first before anything you need to figure out why it's throwing a code and fix it. It'll never ever ever run right as long as that light is on.

Second, your computer has been unplugged for a while. It's normal to run rough on first startup after something like this. The computer has memory so it needs to run rough for 10 or 15 minutes or however long it takes to learn the idle mixture and iac position.

Who did you tune and what exactly did they do to it?
Mine did this same thing. It would not idle and the IAC motor would throttle it up and down and then it would die. After a few min it smoothed out like it was trying to recalibrate itself. The van that the motor came out of had sat for about 3 years with a dead battery.
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My motor swap thread
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Unread 03-18-2010, 05:34 AM   #111
fatwreck
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I ordered up new male/female O2 sensor connectors. I should be able to put the correct ends on now and eliminate any splices. I'm hoping this will solve my problem. If not, it will at least help me narrow it down.

I spent some time last night wiring up my gauges. This part of it is almost done, but I still need to install the senders for the water temp, oil pressure, and trans temp.



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Unread 03-23-2010, 06:01 AM   #112
fatwreck
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Ok, so I spent some time last night to replace the lame splice job I had done on my harness to switch the O2 sensor end from male to female. I made sure to tin the wires before I crimped them into the delphi O2 sensor connector. I then soldered them in afterwards to guarantee I had a good connection. I'm happy with how that turned out. I then put the correct female end on the O2 sensor. This gave me the ability to swap the sensors from the driver side to the passenger side as another means of diagnosis.

I started off by clearing the clodes and leaving the sensors where they were. I fired it up and got the same error (P0155 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 1) for the passenger side O2 sensor. I then swapped the O2 sensors from side to side and cleared the codes. I fired it up and this time I got a different error (P0135 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) for the driver side. That seems to indicate that I have a bad O2 sensor, even though it is brand new. I'll get a new one shortly.

It's definitely running super rich. Both of the O2 sensors had a light black coating on them and I'm throwing black smoke out of the exhaust.

In addition to working on the O2 sensors, I also spent some time last night wrapping up the gauges. I got the oil cooler fitting tapped for my oil pressure sender and I got the center section of the dash installed. All of the gauges appear to be working, except for my water temp since I don't have my adaptor/sender yet from Auto Meter.
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Unread 03-23-2010, 06:11 AM   #113
skot0123
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Sounds like you are on the right track.

I may have missed it but where did you get the gauge dash panel from?
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Unread 03-23-2010, 06:16 AM   #114
fatwreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skot0123 View Post
Sounds like you are on the right track.

I may have missed it but where did you get the gauge dash panel from?
I got from the same guy on pirate that I got the rest of my gauges from: Superduty HQ - Home of SDHQ Offroad Racing

It's an Auto Meter part: 15218.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 05:49 AM   #115
fatwreck
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I registered the jeep last week and drove it to the gas station a couple of times. It registered two new codes: PO172 and PO175. It's running rich on both sides of the engine.

DTC P0172 Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1

That link and another one seem to indicate that the MAF could be bad or that I have a vacuum leak. I did buy a used MAF sensor off of one of the forums....and the only thing that I have done with vacuum is hook up my brake booster off the back of the intake. Are there other areas that need to be plugged?
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Unread 04-06-2010, 07:43 AM   #116
jaywiz1977
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Are you sure that the o2 wiring that you "had to move" from the trans harness was for the right o2 sensor and not the one right b4 the converter?I had mine in the wrong locations and I ended up with the same code and a rich running vortek,get a pin out for your pcm and run a continunity check to the pcm plugs.Thats how i figured out my slip up,i then found another o2 set of wires and got them all worked into the right config and bang no more codes!
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Unread 04-06-2010, 08:55 PM   #117
ktwnxj
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great build thread, just registered, i want to see how it winds up as a finished project!
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Unread 04-07-2010, 07:20 PM   #118
rb440mike
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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One thing that comes to mind is the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. If this is disconnected or damaged, the fuel pressure will not decrease when your at idle with high vacuum causing the rich condition. Do you have the tools to check fuel pressure? Another possibility is a problem with your return line, make sure you can blow through it without any restriction. You may want to plug the hose to the brake booster as it could have a large internal leak reducing the vacuum. Keep us posted. I'm doing the same swap and will be curious if the stock radiator is going to work.
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Unread 04-22-2010, 06:45 PM   #119
lilgreenjeepyj
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Any pictures/info on how you hooked into the vacuum port on the intake manifold?
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Unread 04-23-2010, 05:24 AM   #120
green89yj
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It definitely sounds like you may have the wrong O2 sensors or have them switched around. I was lucky enough to be able to pull my 4.0 and label everything as well as I only have one upstream and one down stream.
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