'88 YJ 5.3L Vortec Build Thread - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > '88 YJ 5.3L Vortec Build Thread

XJ Rail Sale!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!Vanco Big Brake Kit Promotion!

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Unread 02-23-2010, 08:04 AM   #91
73Dart
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Shelby, NC
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I still have acess to the van and plan on using the relays, and odbI plug from it. I still need the circuit breakers, raidator hoses, and exhaust pipe. What schematic did you create? Is it the one for the motor, or the one for the Jeep? I like the TBI because of the simplicicy of the wiring. All of the sensors are on the wiring harness that pluggs into the computer. From what I can tell I need to supply the computer with switched 12v, constant 12, and a ground. Apart from that I need to supply the ASD with the switched 12 for the injectors, coil, and fuel pump. All the other wiring is contained in the engine harness. I am not going to be able to work on it this week, but I have next week off. I hope to have it running by next sat.

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89 YJ with a 5.2l V8, 5 Speed ax-15, RC aals giving me 1.5" of lift plus 1" lift shackles giving me a total of 2.5" of lift, 31x10.5x15 A/T tires, no carpet, rinolined tub, Family style roll bar.

My motor swap thread
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Unread 02-23-2010, 08:11 AM   #92
fatwreck
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I created a schematic for the fuel pump relay, harness relay (3 keyed 12v wires), and fan relay...basically all that stuff you see in the last group of pictures.

Good luck completely yours in a week. I hope you can do it, but having been through it myself....I know that it take MUCH longer than that.
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Unread 02-26-2010, 06:48 AM   #93
fatwreck
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Here's another $55 that I wasn't planning to spend. I originally picked up the 3/4" and 5/8" heater hoses for about $10...only to find out that they don't make 90 degree turns very well. Damn.

So, I picked up these two from Napa with molded ends.



There's not a lot of room, but they do fit.



The factory holder is nice for keeping the hoses off of the headers.





After I took care of that it was time to put some antifreeze in it. Everything was going fine until it started peeing out of this small hole under the throttle body. You can see the clear hose that I put on there to keep it from leaking...it's all I could find with 2 seconds notice. I guess it is used to keep the throttle body warm in cold temperatures. Weird.



I was chatting with FrankZ yesterday and he came up with the idea of brazing a fitting onto the radiator to run this line into. I could tee it into either a heater hose or the radiator return line, but I think it'll be cleaner if it has its own fitting. I may just plug it for now.

Last night I set up my relay for the brake switch/torque converter input. The computer wants 12V+ all the time and then nothing when the brakes are pressed. Well, my manual transmission YJ was set up just the opposite. Have I told you how much I love setting up relays?

I also mounted my new OBDII connector under the dash for diagnostics. I'll try to take a picture of that tonight. I'm happy with how it turned out.

I think my next step is to take the dash apart and see if I can find the wire for the check engine light. The computer has an output for that, so I should be able to just connect the two.

I also want to check out my tachometer. My plan is to try a factory 4cyl tach because that is what the computer puts out, but I may end up modifying my 6cyl tach with the "toyota tach mod" to get it to read correctly. We'll see. I definitely want to keep the factory tach, so I'll see what I can come up with.

The plan is to fire it up this weekend.
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Unread 02-26-2010, 07:02 AM   #94
skot0123
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 127
Great build, it is causing me to stop and think about whether I really do want to tackle this swap or not. If I dcide to go for it I will definitely be checking back on this thread though. Can't wait to hear how it runs!
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Unread 02-27-2010, 03:25 PM   #95
1 ton yj
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I had my radiator built with a steam port fitting for that hose. passing it through the bottom of the TB was done for emissions reasons. I ran that steam line from the driver's side head, bypassed the TB and attached it to the steam port on my radiator. Instead of brazing it to your radiator, what you can do is pull your water pump and drill & tap a 1/8 NPT hole in that flat spot on the front of the pump next to the upper neck, and thread in a 90 degree nipple fitting to attach that hose to. Some guys just cap the steam port off but it's necessary for bleeding the cooling system in these engines.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 09:26 AM   #96
fatwreck
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Well, my Dad and I tried to start it yesterday. We quickly realized that it wasn't getting fuel though. We went through a few tests and tried pressurizing the tank to get to the fuel pump, but felt that we shouldn't have to do that. So, I pulled the fuel pump and we figured out that I had it plumbed in backwards. That was a 1 hour delay. I made sure to note that in my previous post where I show the fuel pump in case anyone tries to follow what I have done.

After we got that straightened out, it fired right up. I'd be more excited about it, but I have no throttle right now. It just starts and idles. I want to get it set up so I can rev it before I post any videos.

Also, my alternator isn't charging the battery. I need to pull that this week and have it tested. I'm pretty sure its bad.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 10:11 AM   #97
isophase
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So far is your Fuel Pump selection working out? I am at this step with mine and wanted some thoughts..
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Unread 02-28-2010, 10:57 AM   #98
1 ton yj
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Why isn't your throttle working yet? DBW is pretty simple and hard to mess up.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 10:58 AM   #99
1 ton yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isophase View Post
So far is your Fuel Pump selection working out? I am at this step with mine and wanted some thoughts..
Don't know what fatwreck is using but I have always used a Walbro 392 and never had one fail in 9 years.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 01:01 PM   #100
fatwreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 ton yj View Post
Why isn't your throttle working yet? DBW is pretty simple and hard to mess up.
I have a wire that is labeled "stop lamp in" from my harness people. I followed it into the PCM and it either goes to Pin 8 “PC SOL LO CTRL” or Pin 28 “IGN CTRL”.

I found the “stop lamp in” in the schematics for the TAC. If I trace that wire it shows that it goes to the same setup as the torque converter wire, which requires 12V+ keyed power until the brakes are pressed. I'm thinking this wire needs to be hooked up the same way.

I'm going to try that in an hour here and I'll let you know how it goes.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 01:02 PM   #101
fatwreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isophase View Post
So far is your Fuel Pump selection working out? I am at this step with mine and wanted some thoughts..
I went with the E8248 for my fuel pump. It works enough to start my engine...but that's about all I know so far.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 03:28 PM   #102
1 ton yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatwreck View Post
I have a wire that is labeled "stop lamp in" from my harness people. I followed it into the PCM and it either goes to Pin 8 “PC SOL LO CTRL” or Pin 28 “IGN CTRL”.

I found the “stop lamp in” in the schematics for the TAC. If I trace that wire it shows that it goes to the same setup as the torque converter wire, which requires 12V+ keyed power until the brakes are pressed. I'm thinking this wire needs to be hooked up the same way.

I'm going to try that in an hour here and I'll let you know how it goes.
Sounds like the cruise control wire. The cruise wires were removed from my TAC system. I have no wires going to my stop lamps (it's a buggy, there is no stop lamps) and my DBW works flawlessly.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 03:38 PM   #103
fatwreck
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I really don't think it is a cruise wire...at least that isn't what the schematics show. I checked a few things out this afternoon and this is what I came up with.

I checked the connector at the pedal and I don't have 5V at J, D, or G, which are all the sides of the 3 potentiometers. I checked the pedal itself without the connector and I am getting smooth resistance changes at those potentiometer pins when I move the pedal. So, not having 5V is bad, but changing resistance is good.

I then checked the error codes and I have: P0120, P0220, P1516, P1518

I followed google here for some TSB info:
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...3119.msg683857

and then here:
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/mecha...odes-help.html

Maybe I should pull the power/ground from the battery to reset the computer and try it again now that I have the "stop lamp in" wire hooked up.
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Unread 03-04-2010, 06:33 AM   #104
fatwreck
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I put my replacement alternator in last night. The system now charges, which is good.

I also spent some time writing down the different wire colors from the computer and where I connected them. I wanted to have the "as built" information for troubleshooting and possibly giving to the next owner.

I then started to work on my check engine light. The harness has a wire for one and I could have cheated by putting a small light bulb in a hole in the dash, but I wanted it to be as factory as possible. So, I pulled part of the dash out and found the location of the "emissions maint" light. There used to be some sort of timer under the dash that would light that bulb every so often. I'm not sure what it was trying to tell you before, but I figured it would be a good check engine light now. I pulled the bulb out that was used for "up shift" and moved it over to "emissions maint" and then found the wire under the dash that made it work. It's the little things that make me happy.

Now if I could only get my throttle to work.
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Unread 03-04-2010, 10:13 AM   #105
Truth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatwreck View Post
I really don't think it is a cruise wire...at least that isn't what the schematics show. I checked a few things out this afternoon and this is what I came up with.

I checked the connector at the pedal and I don't have 5V at J, D, or G, which are all the sides of the 3 potentiometers. I checked the pedal itself without the connector and I am getting smooth resistance changes at those potentiometer pins when I move the pedal. So, not having 5V is bad, but changing resistance is good.

I then checked the error codes and I have: P0120, P0220, P1516, P1518

I followed google here for some TSB info:
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...3119.msg683857

and then here:
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/mecha...odes-help.html

Maybe I should pull the power/ground from the battery to reset the computer and try it again now that I have the "stop lamp in" wire hooked up.
I'm pretty sure the 5 volt reference comes from the PCM. Can you trace the wire back and see?
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