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Unread 07-23-2013, 12:49 PM   #31
CaptainCaveman
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Besides the cool factor...

1. Better mileage than a gasser

2. The older diesels (i.e. oil burners) you can run a mixture of filtered waste motor oil and pump diesel. In the area, a 50/50 mix.

3. Waste motor oil is FREE!

4. It's cool...

5. Easy hookup. Only 1 wires to run the engine. Power.

6. It's the SHTF, I can drain disabled vehicles of any fluid that is flammable, and the engine will burn it. Even gasoline and kerosine.

7. It's cool...

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Unread 07-23-2013, 05:44 PM   #32
youngjeepr
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Hmm interesting... But I still would use a different motor... That's a lot of weight to add only to be getting 150 hp you can build a 4.0 with 300+ hp or you can use a SBC and easily make 200hp with only a few wires. But that is just my opinion. But the diesel would be cool
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Unread 07-24-2013, 09:34 AM   #33
CaptainCaveman
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Your right, I could get more power out of a gas engine. But, I wouldn't get the mileage or longevity. The power this engine puts out is more than enough for our purposes. After driving it, I'll admit it does take a while to get up to speed, but we aren't trying to win any races either. But it will do highway speed or better.

It pulls that 6000lbs suburban down the road with no issues and power to spare. So in a vehicle that weighs less than half, there should be no shortage of available power.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 10:08 AM   #34
Tom95YJ
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You obviously don't know how well the 4.2l and 4.0l's are built. My dads CJ had a 4.2 and it went 370k miles before he sold the jeep my buddy's 92 cherokee had 260k before he pulled it to build a stroker.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 10:17 AM   #35
roadyrob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainCaveman View Post
Here are the specs...


Engine RPO Codes: LH6 ('C' series, with EGR) and LL4 ('J' series)
Displacement: 6.2L / 379 cu in
Bore x Stroke: 3.98 in × 3.80 in (101 mm × 97 mm)
Block / Head: Cast iron / Cast iron
Aspiration: Natural
Valvetrain: OHV 2-V
Compression: 21.5:1
Injection: Indirect
Horsepower / Torque (at start): 130 hp (97 kW) @ 3,600 rpm / 240 lb·ft (325 N·m) @ 2,000 rpm
Horsepower / Torque (at final): 143 hp (107 kW) @ 3,600 rpm / 257 lb·ft (348 N·m) @ 2,000 rpm
Horsepower / Torque (army): 150 hp (112 kW) @ 3,600 rpm / 260 lb·ft (353 N·m) @ 2,000 rpm
Max RPMs: 3,600 rpms
Idle RPMs: 550 + or - 25


And keep in mind this IS NOT the infamous 350 diesel that Oldsmobile tried. This was built from the ground up as a diesel for use in the military pickups and blazers, then adapted for civilian use. What's not listed is the ease of instal. It uses the same motor mounts as a SB/BB Chevy, and weighs in just under a BB. These were made for durability, longevity and mileage. And out of the suburban I picked up, it was getting 18mpg on average! So in the YJ, weighing about 1/3 as much, should get somewhere in the neighborhood of high 30's maybe low 40's.
I'm really suprised by these numbers, I expected much more, especially the torque. still cool though.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 10:27 AM   #36
CaptainCaveman
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If you look at the numbers from an 87-90 4.0, it's very comparable.

1987-90: 177 hp (132 kW; 179 PS) at 4500 rpm and 224 lb·ft (304 N·m) at 2500 rpm

Not a horsepower machine, but more torque with a lower peak.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 11:16 AM   #37
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So the stock 4.0 has more hp and almost as much torque as a motor that weighs 2x as much and will be 2x the work to put it. I understand that you want the cool factor and it might be cheaper to run but I'm sure you lose quite a bit of power and MPG when you don't run 100% diesel. The vortec 4.3 might be a good option for you as well you still get a good amount of power and if I remember right you can get about 20mpg
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Unread 07-24-2013, 11:59 AM   #38
CaptainCaveman
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Dry weight of a 4.0...515lbs

Dry weight of a 6.2...700lbs

Less than 200lbs


And these diesels were designed to run dirty. They get worse mileage and performance on today's pump fuel. So by mixing and making it dirty, you make it happy.

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Unread 07-24-2013, 12:01 PM   #39
youngjeepr
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Wow I can't believe it weighs that much...
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Unread 07-24-2013, 12:08 PM   #40
Michaelgoesrawr
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Can you use veggie oil in that thing too? That's a road trip across the country for free if you call ahead.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 12:11 PM   #41
CaptainCaveman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngjeepr View Post
Wow I can't believe it weighs that much...
Yea. Those inline 6's are heavy SOB's.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
Can you use veggie oil in that thing too? That's a road trip across the country for free if you call ahead.
You could. The only problem with veggie, is to make it properly it must be mixed with racing fuel. It burns SUPER hot. Tends to burn out motors.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 01:07 PM   #42
Michaelgoesrawr
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I could've swore people were just filtering it and running it straight. I know little about it though. Ha
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Unread 07-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #43
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1 liter of new vegetable oil (e.g, canola oil, corn oil, soybean oil)

3.5 grams (0.12 oz.) sodium hydroxide (also known as lye). Sodium hydroxide is used for some drain cleaners, such as Red Devil™ drain cleaner. The label should state that the product contains sodium hydroxide (not calcium hypochlorite, which is found in many other drain cleaners)

200 milliliters (6.8 fl. oz.) of methanol (methyl alcohol). Heet™ fuel treatment is methanol. Be sure the label says the product contains methanol (Isoheet™, for example, contains isopropyl alcohol and won't work).

blender with a low speed option. The pitcher for the blender is to be used only for making biodiesel. You want to use one made from glass, not plastic, since the methanol you will use can react with plastic.

digital scale [to accurately measure 3.5 grams (0.12 oz.)]

glass container marked for 200 milliliters (6.8 fl. oz.). If you don't have a beaker, measure the volume using a measuring cup, pour it into a glass jar, then mark the fill-line on the outside of the jar.

glass or plastic container that is marked for 1 liter (1.1 quart)

wide mouth glass or plastic container that will hold at least 1.5 liters (2-quart pitcher works well)

safety glasses, gloves, and probably an apron. You do not want to get sodium hydroxide or methanol on your skin, nor do you want to breathe the vapors from either chemical. Both chemicals are toxic. Please read the warning labels on the containers for these products! Methanol is readily absorbed through your skin, so do not get it on your hands. Sodium hydroxide is caustic and will give you a chemical burn. Prepare your biodiesel in a well-ventilated area. If you spill either chemical on your skin, rinse it off immediately with water.


This is the biggest problem I have with Bio. Using WMO (waste motor oil), your biggest worry is taking an oil bath
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