Hi Jon, just read your latest post and Iíve got to say some things which may seem harsh but will ultimately pay big benefits, and please donít take it personally.
First, go buy a Chiltonís or Haynes manual for your jeep. Either will be immensely helpful in terms of precise communication on the forum and will save you a lot of cash in the future, guaranteed.
Second, a good practice is to always fix known problems first. You already know that you have an intake manifold leak which is allowing air to enter the cylinders and bypass the carb. I can assure you that no carb on the planet will function properly with such a leak. You ask how far the idle screw is turned in, and why dieseling happens and ignore the significant problem.
Thatís not unlike asking why it takes so long for your toilet tanks to fill after flushing when the water line to your home is gushing like mad between your home and the street Ö you have low water pressure. You understand water pressure and itís logical to you. Carbs operate on vacuum, the flip side of water pressure, and your vacuum based carb is trying to operate with a leak "gushing (sucking) like mad" between it and the street (block) Ö you have low vacuum which prevents the carb from functioning properly.
You asked about whether you could replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket by yourself and Blazer gave you some very good information; but nobody really knows whether you can do it yourself or if weíd just cause more trouble. You found two very loose bolts on the rear of the manifold and snugged them; perhaps others are loose as well and itís not necessary to replace the gasket - just some simple maintenance.
The following is from the FAQís Sticky section at the top of this forum in post #2:
Intake and Exhaust Manifold Retaining Bolts/Nuts 1989 Only
Nos. 1 and 2 - 30 ft-lbs
Nos. 3 through 12 - 23 ft lbs
Intake and Exhaust Manifold Retain Bolts/Nuts All Others
Nos 1 through 5 and 8 through 11 - 23 ft-lbs
Nos 6 and 7 - 17 ft-lbs
The issue here is that you donít know what bolt number 4 is, and thatís why either of the manuals are valuable. Either WILL save money, and only about $20 or so, available at most major auto parts stores. It may be that you donít have to replace the gasket and simply need to snug it up; if you donít have a torque wrench perhaps you can borrow one or have a friend with one who will help, or Sears has some very nice ones at very reasonable prices Ö itís something youíll need along with a vac gauge (about $10.)
So hereís a little gift for you for the coming weekend, for me having been so nasty and harsh:
Do stay in touch and letís focus on the known issues first. Perhaps solving them will smooth out everything else.
Donít take it personally, Sir! Everybody learned at some point.