'88 4.2 Fuel filter - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
Michaelgoesrawr
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'88 4.2 Fuel filter

The fuel filter on my '88 4.2 is in the engine bay correct? Haynes says it is on the frame rail like Mean Max's write up in the FAQ but I didn't see it, unless i'm bind and it's not there (which is highly possible).

I'm trying to get rid of a stutter so I'm going for fuel first. Then I'll go for cap and wires because my plugs are fine.

Thanks for the help.

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post #2 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 12:59 PM
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For the '88 4.2 you should see the fuel filter inline just ahead of the carb. It should have an input line on one side and two outputs on the other. One goes to the carb and the second is a return line. When you put in the new filter, make sure that the filter is positioned so that the return line is the top fitting.

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post #3 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtn8tr View Post
For the '88 4.2 you should see the fuel filter inline just ahead of the carb. It should have an input line on one side and two outputs on the other. One goes to the carb and the second is a return line. When you put in the new filter, make sure that the filter is positioned so that the return line is the top fitting.
Thanks. I've replaced it before, but I was reading though the book and found the other one and was real confused for a second.
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
The fuel filter on my '88 4.2 is in the engine bay correct? Haynes says it is on the frame rail like Mean Max's write up in the FAQ but I didn't see it, unless i'm bind and it's not there (which is highly possible).

I'm trying to get rid of a stutter so I'm going for fuel first. Then I'll go for cap and wires because my plugs are fine.

Thanks for the help.
I have the same manual and I know what you mean, but on that 4.2 the filter you are asking about is under the hood.

First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, 6 cylinder 4.2L , 258. Nuttered and TeamRushed, Weber 38 DGES, Now, I'm venturing into the world of Grand Cherokees
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 01:42 PM
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... but on that 4.2 the filter you are asking about is under the hood.
Like I said Monkey...." just in front of the carb." Unless you run your carb attached to the gas tank. But then again Monkeys do strange things!

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post #6 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 01:54 PM
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Like I said Monkey...." just in front of the carb." Unless you run your carb attached to the gas tank. But then again Monkeys do strange things!
hey now! lol. you posted as I was I guess, no disrespect intended my friend.

First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, 6 cylinder 4.2L , 258. Nuttered and TeamRushed, Weber 38 DGES, Now, I'm venturing into the world of Grand Cherokees
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 02:00 PM
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Be nice and I'll send you a banana!

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post #8 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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I picked one up but I haven't change it yet. It's strange. A few weeks ago it started stumbling through all of the gears but only up until 17+ hundred rpm. After that it was fine. Some days it does it horribly and others it accelerates great. As I was driving up to napa it did it but on the way home it was perfectly fine. I dunno. Seemed like a good place to start.

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post #9 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 02:08 PM
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Have you checked plug wires? How old are they? It could be ignition or fuel. It could be a sticking float, too.
if you have a plug wire that moves a little, it could be shorting at times which can cause it to be rough.

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post #10 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtn8tr
Have you checked plug wires? How old are they? It could be ignition or fuel. It could be a sticking float, too.
if you have a plug wire that moves a little, it could be shorting at times which can cause it to be rough.
They are probably as old as the jeep. It sat for five years before I bought it so at least 7 years old. They don't move on the plugs but I didn't check the other end. I guess it wouldn't hurt to change them. When I do, do I get a new distributer and wires or just the wires?

I don't think it's the carb. We rebuilt it only a few months ago.

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post #11 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 02:42 PM
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I would get the distributor cap, rotor, and wires. Actually, if you're going to do that...now would be a good time to do the Team Rush upgrade. Basically you take the old distributor cap off and replace it with a cap and rotor for a 1981 Ford F150 with the 300ci 6 cyl. You also change out the anemic stock coil...I replaced mine with an MSD Blaster2 that ran me $35 at O'reillys. You then get the wires for the same.

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post #12 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtn8tr View Post
I would get the distributor cap, rotor, and wires. Actually, if you're going to do that...now would be a good time to do the Team Rush upgrade. Basically you take the old distributor cap off and replace it with a cap and rotor for a 1981 Ford F150 with the 300ci 6 cyl. You also change out the anemic stock coil...I replaced mine with an MSD Blaster2 that ran me $35 at O'reillys. You then get the wires for the same.
Do you happen to know if doing that is legal in CA? Obviously the fords have them, but there are so many regulations I'm not sure if it's okay. lol.

So I can pick all the stuff up new at a parts shop? Then gap the plugs at .40-.45. It's supposed to eliminate cross fire right? Any gains in performance?
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post #13 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 03:11 PM
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I didn't look and see that you were in CA. I think that you can do the TeamRush but I know that you can't do the Nutter mod.
It seems to run smoother and revs higher and quicker. i don't know that you see any hp gain or MPG gain but it does seem to be smoother through the rpm range.

...and yes, you can go to any auto parts store for the parts.

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post #14 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dtn8tr View Post
I didn't look and see that you were in CA. I think that you can do the TeamRush but I know that you can't do the Nutter mod.
It seems to run smoother and revs higher and quicker. i don't know that you see any hp gain or MPG gain but it does seem to be smoother through the rpm range.

...and yes, you can go to any auto parts store for the parts.
Thanks a lot. Aside from the stutter/stumble it goes through the rpms fine. I generally don't drive it above 3k anyway. Saves gas
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post #15 of 22 Old 06-14-2011, 03:22 PM
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I don't normally go above 3k either but it goes through it faster.

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