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Unread 07-30-2013, 11:17 AM   #16
Rproject
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown73 View Post
It was an estimate.....more like 5 seconds. I was in a hurry to type since I'm at work.
I still you're long. If mine is running in 1-3 seconds, something's wrong.

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Unread 07-30-2013, 11:38 AM   #17
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Good grief. Can we get back to the original issue here instead of focusing on my ESTIMATED cranking time?

I get it. The atomic clock I used to measure the cranking time had not updated properly to take into account the earth's daily rotational deceleration thereby causing my ESTIMATE to be errant.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 11:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown73 View Post
Good grief. Can we get back to the original issue here instead of focusing on my ESTIMATED cranking time?

I get it. The atomic clock I used to measure the cranking time had not updated properly to take into account the earth's daily rotational deceleration thereby causing my ESTIMATE to be errant.
If the OP is concerned about a long crank - hard start - and someone tells him their rig takes 10 seconds to start, it is relevant. Anything over 3 seconds should be looked at. Whether it be a starter solenoid issue, starter, ignition coil, ignition circuit, etc.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 11:56 AM   #19
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What more can I say? I have already stated that it was an estimate because I was in a hurry. Point taken. Noted. Understood. Let's get back to helping this guy out.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 12:57 PM   #20
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It could be a starter issue but its just weird that it *usually* only does it after driving then parking then trying to start again.

Any way to test those other symptoms other than replacing parts? Autozone can run a load test on my starter and stuff right?

I'll check that next time I drive then shut off, ill listen for boiling under the hood.

And I never hit the gas for the initial start (first time of the day). Maybe I should pump it once then drive and see how it starts the 2nd time.

I don't think anyone has answered yet though, can the choke get stuck in one position or the other? Excuse my stupidity I don't know TOO much about motors lol.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 01:08 PM   #21
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If the choke was stuck, she'd drive like crap when warm.

I recently had a starter solenoid issue that kind of sounds a bit like your issue. The ignition wire for the starter solenoid had a short. Every once in a while she wouldn't start. Turn the key off-on again and she'd fire right over.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 01:23 PM   #22
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If I'm understanding your symptoms correctly, you've driven until the engine has reached operating temp, shut it down, tried to restart a little bit later and the engine just turns over and over and over until she finally starts up? If so, this is exactly what mine was doing until I noticed the fuel boiling (i.e. vapor lock). I ended up re-routing the fuel lines, placing a larger diameter hose around the primary fuel line going to the carb, wrapping the fuel lines in header tape, and then installed hood louvers to expell the residual heat to keep heat soaking to a minimum. I know, sounds like a lot, but it worked for my set up and I no longer have the long start (oh no, not the dreaded estimate again!......that one's for you Rproject!) issues I had before.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 01:54 PM   #23
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Yea she drives just fine so I guess the choke isn't sticking. Unless it sticks initially and un sticks as I hit the pedal trying to start it. But during driving its always driven normal. Ganges don't indicate anything overheating either.

I guess the main thing that scared me was the slight white smoke which I will still have a buddy try to record on video to post here. But if its normal due to the location of the carb, then that's fine.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 02:02 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown73 View Post
(oh no, not the dreaded estimate again!......that one's for you Rproject!)
Just a bunch of chameleon's on a Tuesday afternoon. Nice.
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Unread 07-30-2013, 02:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Just a bunch of chameleon's on a Tuesday afternoon. Nice.
Lol. Figured you would appreciate that!
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Unread 08-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #26
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:deadhorse:

jbrown is going to HATE me for this, but as I went to get into the Wrangler this afternoon to run and errand, just as I put the key in the ignition, this thread came to mind. The Wrangler has not been started since last night, shortly before midnight. It's now 5:00P CDT.

258 i-6
nuttered
mc2150
stock: cap, rotor, plugs, wires, distributor

Once to the floor, turn the key, done

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Unread 08-28-2013, 07:31 PM   #27
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Lol!
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[QUOTE=Rproject;15815900]The only thing I can say is to close your eyes. Seriously. If you close your eyes and pay attention to your finger tips, you'll be able to feel the nuts better and manipulate them easier.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-28-2013, 08:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown73 View Post
Lol!
I figured you'd like that.

Oh, and I'm honored that you chose to include one of my passages in your sig line.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 09:23 PM   #29
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You can not fix it because it is normal as I mentioned before. Your intake is saturated with fuel vapor due to the excess heat surrounding the carburetor. You need an air fuel mix to get the engine to start, not just fuel.

Your crank time (whatever it is) is clearing the intake of excess fuel and the engine starts when enough air gets in to allow combustion.


Excess cranking on a cold engine that hasn't run in days is an entirely different story.
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Unread 08-29-2013, 01:28 PM   #30
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So its normal to sit there and try to crank an already warmed motor? Last night I drove it then when I went to start it again I cranked for a few seconds. .nothing. .tried again about 4 times and then it finally turned over. Blew a little smoke and smelt like gas
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