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Unread 12-14-2013, 11:50 AM   #46
Jeepsr4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
The threads on ubolts are rolled, rather than cut, so they are rounded. The threads in the nuts are cut. When the two come together they create a thread lock that hold the proper torque. You can test this by feeling the threads on the unused part of an old ubolt and comparing the threads for the portion where the high nut has been removed. Also, as stated previously, they stretch.

This is from Eaton
You found the same stuff I did.. That is dealing with a nut that cuts.
Ford nuts dont cut into the UBOLT. I dont want to start no crap, but I am tired of internet BS, Mythbusters did a great job of stopping a lot of stupid talk and beliefs.
I just want facts based on FORD UBOLTS. not some crap bolts that some company makes for horse carriages or what ever they making them for.

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Unread 12-14-2013, 12:46 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
You found the same stuff I did.. That is dealing with a nut that cuts.
Ford nuts dont cut into the UBOLT. I dont want to start no crap, but I am tired of internet BS, Mythbusters did a great job of stopping a lot of stupid talk and beliefs.
I just want facts based on FORD UBOLTS. not some crap bolts that some company makes for horse carriages or what ever they making them for.
You seem really bent on defending Ford for some reason and for advocating Ford ubolts. Not sure why or why you seem so upset?

FACT is, why reuse something that holds your whole vehicle together when multiple sources of repute recommend replacing them? It's not like they are a bank breaker in the scheme of suspension and axle swap work. Anywhere from $20.00-$40.00 will get you all new ubolts. Is it even worth the risk?

I'd hate to lose my axle on the freeway at 75 due to a used ubolt giving up the ghost quite suddenly. My life is worth more to me than saving a couple twenty dollar bills.

This isn't a case of internet parroting or misinformation. My local spring shop even takes the time to cut each removed ubolt in half to make sure that they are not accidentally reused. They will not service any leaf springs or axles without replacing the ubolts if they are required to be removed. They've been in business for like 50 years and told me they've always done that....

Cheers
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Unread 12-14-2013, 12:57 PM   #48
soonermatt
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This thread is getting hijacked by two people arguing about u-bolts....

FWIW: I reuse u-bolts and buy new depending on the situation. I also check my torque on them before long trips regardless of new or old as most manufacturers suggest. Sometimes the threads get boogered up on the old ones so you have to use a couple bolts.

In general, I try to ignore people with extreme bias in these forums. At some point people get way past being helpful and just want to assert their opinion on others.

One thing not mentioned, the rear diff cover is kind of weak. I ruined mine first trip out after the swap. A pretty, thick cover is justifiable on these.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 03:44 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by soonermatt View Post
One thing not mentioned, the rear diff cover is kind of weak. I ruined mine first trip out after the swap. A pretty, thick cover is justifiable on these.
Yet this is subjective as well.

Most may agree upon it, but it's still an opinion - yet you specifically stated you distance yourself from people who hold such strong opinions.

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Unread 12-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #50
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The rear diff cover is weak. That's not an opinion.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 06:05 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
You found the same stuff I did.. That is dealing with a nut that cuts.
Ford nuts dont cut into the UBOLT. I dont want to start no crap, but I am tired of internet BS, Mythbusters did a great job of stopping a lot of stupid talk and beliefs.
I just want facts based on FORD UBOLTS. not some crap bolts that some company makes for horse carriages or what ever they making them for.
I can't speak for ford ubolts specifically, but we use heavy studs and nuts for bolt up (.5" up to over 2" studs) on pipe flanges and they do stretch to the point that they need to be replaced.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 08:39 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Steve707 View Post
I can't speak for ford ubolts specifically, but we use heavy studs and nuts for bolt up (.5" up to over 2" studs) on pipe flanges and they do stretch to the point that they need to be replaced.
How do you feel about the diff cover?
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Unread 12-14-2013, 08:53 PM   #53
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My diff cover had a hole in it when I got the axle, so I bought an aftermarket cover.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 09:06 PM   #54
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The U-bolt argument is dumb. Yes it's a opinion to buy new ones but a good suggestion also. Why reuse a roughly 15 year old u-bolt when you can buy them for next to nothing. Kinda relates to the diff cover, do you have to replace that? No, but when you go off-roading and back into a stump or rock and smash the cover into your R&P and destroy your gears you might look back and say wow maybe those guys were right, I should have bought that cheap bit of insurance to protect my valuable investment...
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Unread 12-14-2013, 10:36 PM   #55
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Arguing over U bolts. Haha thanks for all the info and laughs. I'm going to go get the Axel soon and gonna start going at it. Someone told me I can get D44 front and rear ?
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Unread 12-17-2013, 10:52 PM   #56
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How do tell which explorer has 4:10 gears ? I know im looking for 96-01 explorer
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Unread 12-17-2013, 11:02 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cody413 View Post
How do tell which explorer has 4:10 gears ? I know im looking for 96-01 explorer
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Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
I copied this for the link above. But in the driver door seal area will be a sticker. It will have the axle code on it. 99.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 99999999999999999999999999999999999% of time it is right. I did find one that was wrong, But tag was still on and said different. So you have to find a 42 or D2. Open or LS are about the same.
If you want a lunch box locker get the OPEN diff. If you want a useless LS then get the D2..
Axle Codes

L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential

Code ... Ratio
41 ...... 3.27C
42 ...... 4.10C
43 ...... 3.08C
45 ...... 3.55C
46 ...... 3.73C
D1 ...... 3.27L
D2 ...... 4.10L
D4 ...... 3.73L
D5 ...... 3.55L

Just a example of the sticker.


Gee Cody. How about reading your own thread.
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Unread 12-17-2013, 11:40 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by cody413 View Post
Arguing over U bolts. Haha thanks for all the info and laughs. I'm going to go get the Axel soon and gonna start going at it. Someone told me I can get D44 front and rear ?
The last time I reused a U-bolt a space shuttle exploded. Coincidence?
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Unread 12-18-2013, 03:00 AM   #59
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This post is way off on a tangent. Back to the original post..... 8.8 swap is as hard as you want to make it. When I did my swap I did a total rebuild including 4:10 gear install along with OX locker. I had never touched an axle before that. Just follow directions and do it by the book. As far as getting it under the Jeep and making it work I remembered what one very experienced man told me "don't over complicate it". It is not rocket science. I have seen posts where people try to take all these complicated measurements....divide by this, add that, subtract this, find the 3rd derivative of the distance to the moon to the 40th decimal place! Hogwash!

Tape measure from a fixed point on both sides (like from spring edge to brake caliper). Kick the axle from side to side until both readings are the same and...wallah you're centered. The springs will locate axle front to back and the location pins will insure proper axle alignment (there is no adjustment here). Next rotate the front of the axle up to point the pinion yoke at transfer case - 2 degrees or so. Once that is done start burning perches and shock mounts in. Measure for DS length and attach brake lines. That's it!!

Do not allow your self to become intimidated by this. If you can scratch your butt and pick your nose at the same time you can do this swap also.
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Unread 12-18-2013, 08:23 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudsweatNgearz View Post
This post is way off on a tangent. Back to the original post..... 8.8 swap is as hard as you want to make it. When I did my swap I did a total rebuild including 4:10 gear install along with OX locker. I had never touched an axle before that. Just follow directions and do it by the book. As far as getting it under the Jeep and making it work I remembered what one very experienced man told me "don't over complicate it". It is not rocket science. I have seen posts where people try to take all these complicated measurements....divide by this, add that, subtract this, find the 3rd derivative of the distance to the moon to the 40th decimal place! Hogwash!

Tape measure from a fixed point on both sides (like from spring edge to brake caliper). Kick the axle from side to side until both readings are the same and...wallah you're centered. The springs will locate axle front to back and the location pins will insure proper axle alignment (there is no adjustment here). Next rotate the front of the axle up to point the pinion yoke at transfer case - 2 degrees or so. Once that is done start burning perches and shock mounts in. Measure for DS length and attach brake lines. That's it!!
snip
Good advice and thanks for getting it back on topic!

To the OP, look at my build thread in my signature, and look at Feetwet's build. Between those two threads, almost any 8.8 question will be answered.
Feetwet's 8.8

After reading those threads, if you are overwhelmed, consider this, but it's expensive:
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-476...-assembly.html
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