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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > is the 8.8 swap really that hard ?

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Unread 12-13-2013, 02:22 PM   #31
c5wagner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
I beat the piss out of mine with stiffer clutch pack and no issues...
Then I must be one unlucky bastard then lol

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Unread 12-13-2013, 02:26 PM   #32
Jeepsr4me
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Originally Posted by c5wagner View Post
The lsd's are useless and have integrity issues, Here's mine after having an 8.8 in for 2 weeks
I dont think you got a good one. As most Mustangs have that same rear and dont destroy the carrier like you did. Nice pic BTW..
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Unread 12-13-2013, 05:42 PM   #33
cody413
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So any explorer with in 95 to 01 is what I want for my Yj. And I should take the brake lines and ubolts aswell. And do I get the brackets too?
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Unread 12-13-2013, 06:02 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cody413 View Post
So any explorer with in 95 to 01 is what I want for my Yj. And I should take the brake lines and ubolts aswell. And do I get the brackets too?
95-01 is good. Again, do NOT reuse ubolts. You'll have to buy new ones. What "brackets" are you talking about? And yes grab the brake lines. Grab an extra pass side one from another Explorer too. It works better on the drivers side when mating to the YJ system.

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Unread 12-13-2013, 06:25 PM   #35
c5wagner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
I dont think you got a good one. As most Mustangs have that same rear and dont destroy the carrier like you did. Nice pic BTW..
Probably was just a bad one, tough axle as nothing else broke or even chipped. I got a open carrier with a lunch box locker which seems to work better than the lsd did.
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Unread 12-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #36
cody413
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I thought I needed brackets ? So use passenger side Ubolts from 2 different explorers. I'm just trying to get a list of what I need to go pull from a Upull. Sorry if im asking so much. Id rather get to much info then not enough. Doing it once right is better than 5 times the wrong way
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Unread 12-13-2013, 07:00 PM   #37
Mambo_Dave
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Originally Posted by cody413 View Post
So use passenger side Ubolts from 2 different explorers.
??

Am I missing something, or are you missing the point to not get any U-bolts from any vehicle? Used u-bolts are junk.
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Unread 12-13-2013, 07:08 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Mambo_Dave View Post
??

Am I missing something, or are you missing the point to not get any U-bolts from any vehicle? Used u-bolts are junk.
Think he meant brake lines
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Unread 12-13-2013, 07:23 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cody413 View Post
I thought I needed brackets ? So use passenger side Ubolts from 2 different explorers. I'm just trying to get a list of what I need to go pull from a Upull. Sorry if im asking so much. Id rather get to much info then not enough. Doing it once right is better than 5 times the wrong way
Go back to the previous page in this thread. I linked a very good write up. Use the search function and read a bunch of write ups on the 8.8 swap. There is a metric TON of info here on JF bud.

That said, once again (not sure if that's a typo) DO NOT EVER reuse ubolts. It's not a part that is meant to be used over and over. Your life is worth more than the $40.00 of replacement u-bolts. I already linked you a great place to buy beefy new ones.

Brake lines- Yes, grab 2 passenger side ones. The one you get with the 8.8 and one from a different explorer.

Please define what "brackets" you're talking about. There are a million "brackets" in a vehicle and I have no idea what you're talking about...brake line brackets? Hard line brackets? E-brake brackets? Spring perches? U-bolt plates? Pinion yoke adapter? "Bracket" is such a generalized term. Please be more specific about what you're talking about in this case.

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Unread 12-14-2013, 07:53 AM   #40
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Show me in a FORD FSM to not reuse the U bolts and I will not say to use them again on here. I will still do it, but I will Not say to reuse them to anyone on here again. I have the Jeep FSM for 90 YJ and it does not say to get new bolts. I want to know why everyone says to replace.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 07:59 AM   #41
linusb
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The only hard part is welding the new perches. I say its hard because your average Joe (like me ) doesn't have a welder. So hopefully you have a welder or a friend with one. If not, join your local jeep club and make some friends.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 08:08 AM   #42
Mambo_Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
Show me in a FORD FSM to not reuse the U bolts and I will not say to use them again on here. I will still do it, but I will Not say to reuse them to anyone on here again. I have the Jeep FSM for 90 YJ and it does not say to get new bolts. I want to know why everyone says to replace.
Because of the load on them. Just like Ford TTY head bolts, most bolts used in assembly-line mass-manufacturing are meant to use once (i.e. to be torqued and stretched to yield once).

The second time you use them, you're stretching them further. It can go well, and sometimes it can bite ya in the ***... but for 20 year old rusty U-bolts, is it really worth it to most? I certainly wouldn't use them from a Ford, or any make, up in the rust belt if they were that old. Maybe where you live is different with the corrosion issue though - maybe a second use is alright?

Last edited by Mambo_Dave; 12-14-2013 at 08:41 AM.. Reason: spelling error
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Unread 12-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #43
jbolty
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The threads on ubolts are rolled, rather than cut, so they are rounded. The threads in the nuts are cut. When the two come together they create a thread lock that hold the proper torque. You can test this by feeling the threads on the unused part of an old ubolt and comparing the threads for the portion where the high nut has been removed. Also, as stated previously, they stretch.

This is from Eaton

Quote:
Quality aftermarket u-bolts are made to SAE standard J429 using SAE1541 steel. 1541 provide a 150,00 PSI minimum tensile strength, and 130,000 PSI minimum yield strength and a 120,00 PSI proof load. So stretching, or exceeding the yield is not something one needs to be concerned with.

The reason u-bolts should be replaced after they have been torque is because the threads are rolled, not cut.

Because of this the threads are distorted when torqued. This distortion will not allow the torqued to be maintained when the nuts are loosened then retightened.

Because loose u-bolts are the main cause of broken springs, we suggest that they be re-torqued. While the springs are new and the u-bolts are new, the rest of the suspension is aged and will have wear. It is common that the new parts receive additional stress than the older parts.

Re-torqueing continues to move the nut up to new threads.

Bottom line is we recommend that the u-bolts be replaced once they have been torqued to spec. Whether one does so or not is their choice.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 09:34 AM   #44
RockWoRM
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Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Fixed it for ya.
Did Superior go away??? I really don't keep up on these things much.
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Unread 12-14-2013, 09:59 AM   #45
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Did Superior go away??? I really don't keep up on these things much.
Yes sir. Not really go away but more fade into the shadows. I believe I got one of their last shafts to replace a busted super 88 driver side axle. After Mac sent that to me, the orders officially were dropped even after almost a year of back logged orders pending some sort of notification to the end user that the company wasn't going to fulfill them. I don't know all the specifics on the demise of the company but I have nothing but good things to say about my personal experience dealing with them when it came to a warrantied part on my daily driver.

Yukon is the only name in town as far as chromoly c clip eliminator kits go for the 8.8 axle. Unless someone else has supplementary information.
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