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Unread 11-02-2011, 12:58 PM   #1
jhumphrey
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8.8 SUA questions

Hey all.

Getting closer to doing my 8.8 swap. Im going SUA, as thats my preference, but I have a couple of questions that I haven't gotten answered in searching, so those that have done this, please chime in .

1) When going SUA, will my stock driveshaft work? From what Ive read, it seems like many are doing a SYE / CV driveshaft. Others say about having a drive shaft cut down and some say the stock is fine. So, its conflicting.

2) Shock mount extensions. Will I need these for the upper shock or is that for a SOA setup only? Im thinking of putting Rancho 9000s on my rig while she's down. Haven't decided if Im going to run the air kit to them or not, but thats another topic. I am also considering locating the bottom shock mounts flush with the axle, so the towers aren't hanging down. I know that since Im going SUA, this is kinda moot, but the idea of a flush mount appeals to me.

3) Torsion bar. A friend of mine said I would need this to prevent axle wrap. I figured I don't need it because Im going SUA (he's obsessed with SOA), but I want verification .

Any other advice that I need to make this swap as painless as possible is great. Im planning to have the tubes welded and all that. I just want everything on standby and ready to go so I can have the swap done in a day or so with little to no hiccups. I should also say that my jeep only has a body lift at this time.

Thanks!

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Unread 11-02-2011, 01:28 PM   #2
grandboost98
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some people use the stock drive shaft setup but most will switch to a sye/ cv shaft setup.

if you move the bottom shock brackets that are on the axle up so that they are flush you will have to get the shock extender bracket for the top or get smaller shocks.

no need for a torsion bar SUA
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Unread 11-02-2011, 01:35 PM   #3
chicalibro3
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1) You can use your stock driveshaft, you just need the flange adapter. i think most writeups use CV driveshafts because guys/gals are going SOA or put an SYE in to alleviate the angles caused by the offset of the yoke. Also, maybe just because they are back there already.

2) If you plan on mounting the lower shock tabs flush with the bottom of your axle tube, you are gonna need to use the upper shock mount extensions to make up for the lower shock mount. i believe you end up moving everything up 2".

3) I believe that you wont need any anti-wrap device because you will be staying SUA. I would mind the size of the spring perches because if they are too small you might get a bit of wrap, but from what I hear, reusing the stock Ford perches is fine.
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Unread 11-02-2011, 02:46 PM   #4
jeepster93
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The stock driveshaft is ok as long as you set the pinion for that.
Most of us go ahead and do a cv/sye setup as the spring perches are welded in place and need to be set for the driveshaft, and is a pain to change later and the sye is the stronger way, and let's face it...this all about NOT breaking.

I moved my shocks up like you want to do. Used the MORE shock relocators to do it. The MORE mounts are not needed to move the lower mounts, as long as you get new shorter shocks. If you are going to buy new shocks anyhow..the upper relocators are just more money. I got the relocators as I was not getting new shocks and wanted to reuse the shocks that was on there already.

We Yj's have an anti-sway bar. Made for side to side sway, not really for front to back torque(torsion) Take it off. Not really EVER needed with leaf springs. was put on there for dot safety regulations. The springs and shackles will keep the body centered over the drivetrain. That is why we buy big, thick spring shackles too. That is what the anti- sway bars do, not really an anti- wrap thing. Again let the springs do the anti-wrap. That is why a sua and soa don't and do have rear end wrap, where the springs are mounted on the axle.

This is a pic of how mine turned out with regards to the moving the lower perches.
Clean, I like it.
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Unread 11-02-2011, 03:24 PM   #5
Quail
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Your stock driveshaft will work.Thats is an 8.8 sua with a stock driveshaft in the pic .
The circular flange on the pinion shaft will be on your 8.8.
The piece bolted to the circular flange supporting the u-joint is what you need,it can be sourced from the donor Explorer or bought at Napa.
Do yourself a favor and wait until the 8.8 is mounted before setting up your shocks. trying to get decent travel out of your shocks with an SUA 8.8 is a pain.
It s hard to tell in the pic but I am using the Explorer spring plates to give another 2 inches of shock travel
You will never miss the trackbar

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Unread 11-02-2011, 04:14 PM   #6
jhumphrey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quail
Your stock driveshaft will work.Thats is an 8.8 sua with a stock driveshaft in the pic .
The circular flange on the pinion shaft will be on your 8.8.
The piece bolted to the circular flange supporting the u-joint is what you need,it can be sourced from the donor Explorer or bought at Napa.
Do yourself a favor and wait until the 8.8 is mounted before setting up your shocks. trying to get decent travel out of your shocks with an SUA 8.8 is a pain.
It s hard to tell in the pic but I am using the Explorer spring plates to give another 2 inches of shock travel
You will never miss the trackbar
Thanks. I am planning to buy the flange adapter. I wouldn't mind going sye/cv shaft, but that's more $ that I don't have right now. I'm regearing my axles at the same time, so going sye would set this project back another couple of months. If that's the recommendation, I'll go for it. Otherwise, I'm just going to do the adapter and spend the money on new shocks (which the jeep needs anyway).
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Unread 11-02-2011, 08:19 PM   #7
jdubsjeep
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Here is the deal. If you intend to lift your Jeep with a suspension kit in the 4" range, you will really want to consider the SYE and CV joint drive shaft. Being that you want a regear, I figure you want to run bigger tires. Remember, with the CV joint drive shaft you want the angle at the pinion to be close to straight, -2 degree. When you weld your perches with a CV joint drive shaft it will be at a different angle than that of one without a CV joint. I always say do it once, and right... Think ahead and plan accordingly.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 09:49 AM   #8
jhumphrey
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Originally Posted by jdubsjeep View Post
Here is the deal. If you intend to lift your Jeep with a suspension kit in the 4" range, you will really want to consider the SYE and CV joint drive shaft. Being that you want a regear, I figure you want to run bigger tires. Remember, with the CV joint drive shaft you want the angle at the pinion to be close to straight, -2 degree. When you weld your perches with a CV joint drive shaft it will be at a different angle than that of one without a CV joint. I always say do it once, and right... Think ahead and plan accordingly.
Thanks. My ultimate plan is to put metal cloak flat fenders on with 33" tires. I, currently, do not plan to put any sort of lift on my jeep. It has a body lift on it right now that the PO had put on. Im not a fan, but thats what I need right now to clear the 31" tires that are currently on it. Having spoken to metal cloak, they say I can fit 33" tires with zero lift, 35" tires with a 2" body lift.

I use my jeep for mild trail riding and some mudding. If I encounter rocks on the trail, they are usually not much larger than a basketball and the occasional tree / tree stump. I live in TN, so the trees on the trail aren't usually super large. I also like the lower center of gravity that I would get with 33" tires and zero lift.

I think 33" tires are ideal for me, maybe 35" tires if I decide to start doing rougher trails (hence why Im putting 4.56s in - Im covered either way). I wheel with buddies who worry about their monteros, etc., so often times I am limited in what trail rating I go to anyway. Up to this point, Ive not had an issue with 31" tires. 33" would just be icing on the cake for me
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Unread 11-03-2011, 10:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhumphrey View Post

1) When going SUA, will my stock driveshaft work?

2) Shock mount extensions. Will I need these for the upper shock or is that for a SOA setup only?

3) Torsion bar. A friend of mine said I would need this to prevent axle wrap.

Any other advice that I need to make this swap as painless as possible is great.
1. it might. mine did fine.

2. you will need them

3. you don't need one
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Unread 11-03-2011, 01:19 PM   #10
jhumphrey
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Thanks Poke.

Should I go with the this adapter (http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-576...bolt-yoke.html) or the "regular" adapter (http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-498...-flange.html)?
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Unread 11-03-2011, 01:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jhumphrey View Post
Thanks Poke.

Should I go with the this adapter (http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-576...bolt-yoke.html) or the "regular" adapter (http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-498...-flange.html)?
Doesn't matter, the first one looks like more money and more work to install

edit - if you are going to try the stock driveshaft out... get the adapter flange.
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