Not sure if it's worth anything in current form, but there's some good ideas brewing in my thread abour the parking brake system on an 8.8... CLICK HERE.
There's also a few good links floating around in that thread for other 8.8 brake solutions and kits.
[CENTER][I]Click for build thread:[/I] [B][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-honeybadger-1519953/index6.html"][COLOR="Lime"]HONEYBADGER[/COLOR][/URL][/B] - [COLOR="DarkRed"]302//435//20//8.8[/COLOR][/CENTER]
[CENTER] >>>the single greatest investment you can make for your jeep is to buy a good welder, and learn how to use it<<<[/CENTER]
94 V8 YJ, SOA, H1's, 37's, HP D44, D60, 4.88's, winch and some other goodies
1946 CJ2A, 225 V6, T98 D18, Warn OD, D30/D44. Dual winches mild lift & 34's
1966 M416 1/4 ton Military Trailer Expo Trailer
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I just checked my YJ foot operated park lever vs my TJ lever. The YJ lever is 9" from pad to pivot with a 2" pivot to cable which equals 4.5 to 1 ratio. The TJ has a 13" handle to pivot point with a 1" pivot to cable or 13 to 1 ratio. This is almost a 3 to 1 advantage. The YJ requires you push with your foot, the TJ is pull with your hand which is a much easier procedure at least for me.
You could attach a bellcrank where the front cable end is located under the body that has at least a 2.5 to 1 advantage (5" from pivot being pulled by the front cable and 2" from the pivot attached to the rear cable(s)). The foot pedal will have to move quite far and it would be advantages to have an early GM rachet still pedal assembly. You could install a TJ style handle and be done with it.
"OK, before I get started, I know I should have taken pictures. You guys did some pretty good work and don't take this wrong, but I did mine WAY WAY simpler than the prior posts. All I did is disassemble my D35 brakes, take the little ebrake lever that the cables originally attach to, chop off the last inch or so, grind it flat and weld it on the ends of the little ebrake levers that stick out of the 8.8. Then I simply ran my original D35 XJ cables through the hole on the 8.8, and hooked them onto the ebrake levers like they were originally in the D35. This works perfect, have done it in a YJ and in my XJ on 8.8 installs. Took me about 15 minutes total for the install and very easy assuming you already have the welder there. John. "
Originally Posted by cyoos
The last post in the following one page thread by davsyjdd (with pic) is the best solution I've seen so far. It utilizes the factory YJ ebrake cables, and welding the YJ cable retention end of the D35's ebrake lever to the 8.8's ebrake lever.
My project 8.8 is setting in the back room awaiting rebuild. When I opened it up for inspection last summer I found pieces of a previous gear set, one pinion tooth busted, the LSD clutch steels on the ring side were spun and jammed between the spiders and the diff housing, and a gentle twist in the ring side axle splines. So it's back to plan A and a complete rebuild with a TrueTrac, 4.10's, and possibly c-clip eliminator kit hopefully before the end of summer, so I have plenty of time to research.
Originally Posted by cyoos
In my travels on the net I found these parking brake cables for YJ's with a disc brake conversion.
The left cable is 32.75 inches.
The right cable is available in 69.75 or 70.5 inch versions for 1991-1995, or a 64.75 inch version for 1987-1990 YJ's.
Total cost less shipping for a 1991-1995 YJ:
$36.46 with the short right cable
$39.44 with the long right cable or the 87-90 cable
Considering the inconsistency people seem to have with the ECGS cables, and the headaches of figuring out how to either adapt their YJ cables to the Ford parking brake lever, or the Ford cables to their YJ's equalizer, this seems like it might be a worthy investment.
The cables are a little over half way down the page, item 33a.
This is somewhat pricey at $160, but it's another alternative to feeding the 8.8's calipers for those needing extra stopping power.
"...The BPM uses the excess fluid capacity available in the master cylinder bore to provide increased line pressure for the low volume requirements of a small piston caliper brake system, such as Ford Explorer, Corvette and GM rear disc brake calipers, and is ideal for use with rear drum brake systems."