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Ring & Pinion's, Lockers, 4340 Axles, Install Kits, BaRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits Engo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shipp

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Unread 01-29-2014, 06:25 PM   #46
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_sprecher View Post
After looking into the cost of new spiders and clutch packs it was cheaper to buy this.

It's hard to beat $219 shipped for a new carbon fiber Ford Racing LSD.
Say you go with a carrier setup like this. Won't you also need...
Shims for the carrier?
Might still need s shims for the clutch plates?
and to do the friction soak?
Then you still have to check the back lash and carrier preload?
That plus shim kits you could almost Buy the Powertrax locker.
Which I have found for as low as $440.

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Unread 01-30-2014, 09:12 AM   #47
tom_sprecher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gausswave View Post
Say you go with a carrier setup like this. Won't you also need...
Shims for the carrier?
Might still need s shims for the clutch plates?
and to do the friction soak?
Then you still have to check the back lash and carrier preload?
That plus shim kits you could almost Buy the Powertrax locker.
Which I have found for as low as $440.
Everything in my junkyard axle was worn out. The shafts, R&P, spider gears and LSD. The install kit for the new R&P included everything you needed for shims.

The new LSD does not need the clutch plates to be shimmed. What's "to do the friction soak"?
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Unread 01-30-2014, 11:24 AM   #48
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_sprecher View Post
Everything in my junkyard axle was worn out. The shafts, R&P, spider gears and LSD. The install kit for the new R&P included everything you needed for shims.

The new LSD does not need the clutch plates to be shimmed. What's "to do the friction soak"?
http://unitedpantherownersassociatio...r-still-in-car

You presoak the clutch plates for 15 to 30 min when you install them because they will expand. This is important for the end play measurement which should be .005 to .030" and will affect shim choice for the clutch packs.

In my case it only the spider, Side gears and clutches that are bad that are bad. Found a kit that has the gears and the clutches for 185$ on Ebay.
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Unread 01-30-2014, 11:45 AM   #49
tom_sprecher
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The Ford Racing LSD came assembled and was wet with oil. The installation instructions said nothing about taking it apart, soaking the clutches and the reassembling it. Plus it would not make sense to sell an assembled LSD unit that required all that.
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Unread 01-30-2014, 12:11 PM   #50
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_sprecher View Post
The Ford Racing LSD came assembled and was wet with oil. The installation instructions said nothing about taking it apart, soaking the clutches and the reassembling it. Plus it would not make sense to sell an assembled LSD unit that required all that.
Makes sense.
Pull the carrier.
measure the pinion preload with an inch pound torque wrench.
Put in the new carrier measure the back lash and again measure the additional bearing preload with the carrier.
Might need a carrier shim kit which are $16 in my neck of the woods.

I ordered the Ebay kit for 185$. Seems easier than resetting the ring gear.
Still the carrier is not a bad option if you have a D/I and know how to use it. It's not rocket science but there are little subtleties that can make a serious difference if you get it wrong. The ability to accurately and repeatable measure is one of those skills that separate real machinists. There's more room for error in setting up the clutch packs which make it the safer choice and a lot less expensive is if you screw things up. Clutch pack ~65$ vs. R&P gear set and install.
That's my choice and I'm stick to it....... For now.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 11:13 PM   #51
Gausswave
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Got my parts kits today! May be I'm getting a little old school. When I get a "rebuild kit" a given project I have this expectation to get all the parts I need IN the kit. Well You can't tell from the pix but there were no shims in he clutch kit. I had to ask or the friction modifier. At least they threw that in for free. So my clutches are soaking and we'll see how things fit with the old ones.
Sadly it was the same way with the brakes. Went to Oriley's and got the brake pads at one store and had to go across town to get the calipers. The calipers have the slides and boots already. The pads only have the pads. So I still need the bolts and what ever those little metal tabs are that go on the casting where the brake pad rides. I have to buy 2 other hard ware kits in order to get the parts I need. One has a new set of slides and bolts. The other has the boots and the metal tabs. Oh and to make it even better it only has 3 of the 4 tabs needed. Nobody in a 20 mile radius has the kits at all. Kinda sad commentary living in a major city on the west coast and you can't find parts for a very common major brand vehicle.
But the warehouse has it so it could be available tomorrow. Getting over charged by the local differential shop is starting to look cheap if I factor time in this project....
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Unread 02-02-2014, 03:33 AM   #52
Gausswave
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Installed the gears and clutch packs. L side was 0.013" and the right was 0.012" which is right in the middle of the 0.005 to 0.030" range. So the old 0.030" shim was sufficient. Measured it the right way this time between the end of the axle shaft and the cross pin. I'm glad I had the axle out there's just now way around it. Getting the spring back in is a PITB! Even if I had the thicker 0.035 shim to get closer to 0.005" I'm not sure I'd go the trouble to stick it in. Right now I'm workn on getting the parking brakes installed. What is it with ford and Really tight springs? I'm pretty sure there is a special tool for this. I just don't have it. Some thing before the big game tomorrow....
img_0887_zpscd96ca20.jpg   img_0894_zps8469979f.jpg   img_0896_zpsee3997bd.jpg   img_0891_zps1d3f85ac.jpg  

Last edited by Gausswave; 02-02-2014 at 03:44 AM.. Reason: butter fingered bfore photos...
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Unread 02-03-2014, 01:16 AM   #53
Gausswave
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Well with the gears done it was on to the brakes today of course that meant more fun with junkyard axles.. So the junk yard had set the axles down on the dust covers which bent them up a bit. Sigh. Ok not a huge deal I can pound them out. So I beat them close to shape to where I thought the calipers would clear them again, cleaned em up and painted. So today I dove in to my collection of Brake part bags and started assembling. I kept the old rotors since they seems to be in decent shape. Almost new looking. So parking brake parts in. Still hate those springs. Grabbed the rotors and slapped them on. only on the driver side the rotor jammed when I tightened the lug nuts. HUH? At first I thought the extra ridge from where the old pads were the issue and I went to get new rotors. Came back same issue. Eventually I figured out the parking brakes were not parallel with the axle and the backing plate was still a bit bent. After a tuning session with my fine 6# adjuster and a short piece of 2x4 every thing seems to be spinning freely now.
So 1 more trip to the parts store to get the hydraulic line bolts and I should be able to finish the brakes. Need to make some mounting tabs and to redo the hard lines.
img_0901_zps59545cb7.jpg   img_0904_zps3d9ef978.jpg  
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Unread 02-04-2014, 04:02 AM   #54
Gausswave
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Got the hard lines done tonight. Using a flaring tool was an interesting learning curve. So todays challenge was actually banjo bolts. Oriley's, Autozone and napa don't carry a 3/8" x 24 Banjo bolt. Even the local Ford dealer didn't have them in stock. The one on the other side od town supposedly has them according to the computer so I have lunch plans for tomorrow. If they have to ordered Rock Auto has them. I need to replace the flare fitting in the Jeep from the master cylinder. Because of the location and the bends it poses a challenge. The other issue I may have to deal with is the brake line may be just a bit short for true full extension. It is the extended version that was used with the SOA the firs time so I'm not sure why it's looks to be about 2" shorter than I'd like. I'll find out tomorrow when I stuff the axle back in.
img_0928_zpsace03ae3.jpg   img_0921_zps286084bd.jpg   img_0929_zpsf52ef713.jpg  
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Unread 02-06-2014, 04:20 AM   #55
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It's in. I Had to modify the brake lines in the Jeep. The only fittings that leaked are the factory made connectors. Go figure. All the flanges I did seem to work fine. The bleeder on the driver side caliper I ended up stripping out. It was real soft steel but in really tight. I think I still have a little air in the system since the pedal is still a bit spongy. The only other issue was the shocks. What was in there didn't match and the larger shocks are to big. It leaves me with only 1" of compression. I still got a test drive in tonight any way! whoo hoo! I've got another beat up set that seem to work despite the dents in the side. Long term I will probably get the MORE shock extenders or make my own. So still to do... remount shocks, flush the brake lines ( nasty looking fluid ), make a traction bar system and add the parking brake.
img_0942_zps4e5aed71.jpg   img_0947_zps04e30120.jpg   img_0951_zps375e5288.jpg  
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Unread 02-06-2014, 06:44 AM   #56
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I did the MORE Upper Shock Mounts - I'd recommend them. Here are the details:

StanF Tummy Tuck and MORE Shock Mounts


The best pictures of the shock mounts on my axle are here:
StanF 8.8 Pictures
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Unread 02-06-2014, 03:35 PM   #57
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Is that the factory 8.8 Cover? I recommend an upgrade for increased durability as well as the easier rear fill plug.

Solid covers are only $64 http://solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/...4&idcategory=7

Toss in a lube locker gasket too.... You'll love not having to mess with RTV anymore
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Unread 02-07-2014, 08:49 AM   #58
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
Cool!
I was going to make my own but not anymore. $65 is a no-brainer!
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Unread Today, 03:16 AM   #59
Gausswave
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Wow I missed some replies. I'm running the stock cover for the moment but @ $65 I think I'll replace it next oil change.
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