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Unread 01-19-2014, 02:38 PM   #31
Jeepsr4me
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I asked before and not sure if you answered, what are you measuring when you say END PLAY? I have a lot of FSMs and can get the info. But its useless if you are applying it to the wrong thing.
^^ above posted same time I did.
But here is a pic of were to check


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Unread 01-19-2014, 05:38 PM   #32
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
I asked before and not sure if you answered, what are you measuring when you say END PLAY? I have a lot of FSMs and can get the info. But its useless if you are applying it to the wrong thing.
^^ above posted same time I did.
But here is a pic of were to check
At the time that was NOT how I did. I measured at the other end. May be not as accurate but more than accurate enough to determine it wasn't right.
Here's I really know...

This is a pic of the first clutch pad. You might notice distinct lack of pad material? I have 2 that look just like this. The clutch packs were built wrong. Mine were missing the plate between the spider gear and the first clutch pad. Some body rebuilt it wrong....sigh.
img_0767_zpsf6ed89f8.jpg  
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Unread 01-19-2014, 06:41 PM   #33
Gausswave
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Well..... now what? The spiders are defiantly worm but shot?
img_0731_zps306210ca.jpg   img_0765_zps920b12e4.jpg   img_0773_zps43729873.jpg   img_0772_zps5de21498.jpg  
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:26 AM   #34
tom_sprecher
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Get the $219 diff and the reliability that comes with it.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 12:31 PM   #35
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_sprecher View Post
Get the $219 diff and the reliability that comes with it.
I'd like to. 219$ diff + $100 for an install kit and $100-200 for the install. Changing out a carrier is the same a regear in that regard. The only difference is in this case I probably won't have to reset pinion depth. OTOH a rebuild like that doesn't look hard. But I think there's a difference between watching a video showing you how and really knowing how to do it right. The cost also puts you at the door step locker territory.
I found a rebuild kit on Ebay that has both spiders and clutches for 185$.
Ether way I still got to wait till Friday.
In the mean time I have perches to setup, an axle to clean and paint, a front end to change out as well.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:06 AM   #36
Gausswave
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So moving on... I put all the guts back in today just to see how hard it is to rebuild. Not too tricky but I'd recommend having the axle partially inserted and doing the plates/pads one by one. That way they don't fall down in the housing if its off the car on the ground if it's still installed. Other than that It just basic assembly. For now I think the LSD/D30 locker combo is what will suit me best.

Today I had to redo the jack stands a bit. I got as far as getting the axle mounted to the springs and measuring the spring spread. Just by eyeballing it I got it even first try! It measured 5 3/8" from the out side edge of the perch to the back of the brake housing flange. Still want to do the actual math and see where it should be before I weld any thing but It looks straight. I'm using the jack to set the drive angle. It moves the drive line nice and easy. I still need to put the new U joint and yoke adapter on before I set the angle.
img_0793_zpsc96b4384.jpg   img_0784_zps40ffc86b.jpg   img_0781_zpsd68d6bea.jpg   img_0778_zps6cf674bc.jpg  
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Unread 01-21-2014, 05:45 AM   #37
88hatchy
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Quote:
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Although I would love to have gotten an ARB instead, I just could not justify the $$$$. When you add it all up they're close to $1200, maybe?
OX is less expensive.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 07:35 PM   #38
Gausswave
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I was pondering what if's today....

What if I took a standard lunch box locker and made a set of really big shims to take up the space the inside o the carrier was the same width as an open carrier? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 06:24 AM   #39
Gausswave
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I took the flange off the old Explorer driveline tonight. I started with a big C clamp and ended up using the 12Ton press to et the old U joints out. Once it was all in and set up I noticed I only have about 1/2" left of drive line compression. All the reading I've done said the double cardan joint was OK. I still have 2 options to resolve this.
1. The transfer case has been lowered. It would be pretty easy to take the spacers out.
2. The spring perches have multiple holes so I can move the axle back.

#2 makes the most drive angle sense. # 1 is better for clearance. Both may be?
img_0803_zps9b8d0f6d.jpg   img_0798_zpsf2788e17.jpg  
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Unread 01-22-2014, 08:14 AM   #40
StanF
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Yes, get rid of the Tcase drop. (Have you already welded on the perches? It will affect your pinion angle)

If you have room to move the axle back, then it will always help. I didn't have that option in my 1995 - I was already too close to the gas tank. Keep in mind that the axle moves backward as it goes over obstacles.

1/2" of driveshaft compression doesn't seem like enough. I would call Tom Woods and give them all your dimensions (driveshaft compressed and extended; 8.8 flange to SYE Yoke). They can tell you if it will work or not.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 08:45 AM   #41
Jeepsr4me
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measure from the U joint caps and not the driveshaft. If the output of the transfer case is at 6 you want to be at 4 on the rear.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 02:19 PM   #42
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post
Yes, get rid of the Tcase drop. (Have you already welded on the perches? It will affect your pinion angle)

If you have room to move the axle back, then it will always help. I didn't have that option in my 1995 - I was already too close to the gas tank. Keep in mind that the axle moves backward as it goes over obstacles.

1/2" of driveshaft compression doesn't seem like enough. I would call Tom Woods and give them all your dimensions (driveshaft compressed and extended; 8.8 flange to SYE Yoke). They can tell you if it will work or not.
Yeah the thought to call The Tom woods crew occurred to me as well. No I have not welded any thing yet.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 02:36 PM   #43
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
measure from the U joint caps and not the driveshaft. If the output of the transfer case is at 6 you want to be at 4 on the rear.
Why not measure @ the drive line?


I have a different flange setup than what you have pictured. It gives me plenty of flat surface to work with to get an accurate pinion angle.
The method you suggest if fine as line as none of the springs are bent and the end caps are a flat surface. Some times they have raised lettering which can make a 1-2 deg. difference.

According to the Tom Woods tecnical info pages the drive line and flange should be perpendicular to each other. I plan on running a traction bar so the axle warp off set shouldn't be necessary. Currently as is though the pinion is set 2 deg. down. But my setup is going to change most likely given the shaft travel issues.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 04:02 PM   #44
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post

1/2" of driveshaft compression doesn't seem like enough. I would call Tom Woods and give them all your dimensions (driveshaft compressed and extended; 8.8 flange to SYE Yoke). They can tell you if it will work or not.

Talked to the Toby at TW. He said you want at least 1" of compression given my application. 22 is the max working angle for the CV joint.
He also said even with a ladder bar 2 down angle was a good thing.

I think I'll take out the TC drop and see what the angles are like next.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 03:32 AM   #45
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post
If you have room to move the axle back, then it will always help. I didn't have that option in my 1995 - I was already too close to the gas tank. Keep in mind that the axle moves backward as it goes over obstacles.
I go the Transfer case lifted tonight and things look a little better. I'll need to remove the drive line but I'm pretty sure I have my inch of compression now.
You aren't kidding about the rear clearance. It's pretty tight. My springs are pretty flat so I don't think there's going to be much more back travel. Just arc travel. I want to get some ratchet straps and see what it really looks like compressed.

I'm 14 on the driveline vs the TC and -1.5 on the axle. Getting close to setting the perches!
img_0833_zps76ba3eb5.jpg   img_0830_zps2105e46f.jpg  
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