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Unread 01-17-2014, 07:27 PM   #16
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_sprecher View Post
Mine looked the same as you describe, everything was black. The clutch packs were worn so bad there was no resistance. I believe there should be something like 35-45 ftlbs. The spiders were seriously pitted and galled. After looking into the cost of new spiders and clutch packs it was cheaper to buy this.

It's hard to beat $219 shipped for a new carbon fiber Ford Racing LSD.
That's not a bad price at all. The only thing I didn't see was what ratios are covered? For grins I stopped by the ford dealer. The clutch kit was 211$. they even broke out the manual and we still couldn't find an end play tolerance info. It did say if it was too tight you'd get chatter.

img_0731_zps306210ca.jpg  
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Unread 01-17-2014, 07:37 PM   #17
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsr4me View Post
exactly what are you measuring? The amount the shaft pulls out of the end of housing or ring gear to pinion movement?
The axle will move a lot in and out. Normal. The factory clutches last about 25k give or take in the 8.8LS. There are better ones and better combos of installing them. Easy toa find on the net.
Been Googling a lot! The info I find lacking is most of the mustangs and rangers are 27 spline. I have the 31 spline shafts. Most of the rebuild kits didn't state which axle shafts they were for. None of what I read matched the official ford procedure I read today. OTOH from a practical POV the parts guy said he didn't think the Ford Tecs used the official procedure either.....


I measured the actual in and out movement of the shaft vs. the housing with a DI. This is end play not back lash. The backlash felt pretty good by hand although I haven't actually measured it. Might as well check that while it's open.
It was more a curiosity question. .800 ish is just over a 1/16. Not huge but enough to question it. The seals aren't leaking and the bearing seem smooth. I'm really tempted to just button it up and run with it.

Last edited by Gausswave; 01-17-2014 at 09:39 PM.. Reason: missed questions
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Unread 01-17-2014, 09:18 PM   #18
Gausswave
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Originally Posted by StanF View Post
I agree - I'm not in love with that locker, but it would not require any gear setups. Gear setups can be expensive, unless you can do them yourself. That's also the only lunchbox locker (as far as I know) that will drop into an LSD carrier.

And there are many advantages of lockers over LSD, and some disadvantages...the OP didn't really state what his intended purpose was (and his profile is very thin), so we're left guessing. I'm just giving him another option.

Even though I have an 8.8 LSD at the moment, I would rather have a rear locker. I don't want clutches in my rear LSD that may wear out/require maintenance/replacement.

If I was going to go to a locker, I'd probably buy a Detroit (which would require gear setup, BTW) for just a little more than the lunchbox locker. I'd love to have a selectable OX or ARB, but they are pricey!

Intentions... have a little fun. Not looking for serious rock crawling mostly I want not to spin the rear wheels in the snow. I have to access TX sites in the Cascades and it want snow creeping ability. If I wasn't worried about being street able I'd be building a snow buggy.

The Plan ( subject to change for what ever reason ) get lifted to start. I started with an $800 jeep that came with 31's on stock gears and stock suspension. It was in the past sprung over and still has most of the existing mods in place.
SYE.
Rear CV joint drive shaft.
Extended brake lines.
Dropped transfer case.
Riken raider A/Ts 31x11.5x15

The PO I got it from un did the SOA back to SUA and as far as I can tell there was no High steer mod.

It also came with the Clifford performance mod. ( Cam shaft and intake anifold) and a Borola SS exhaust. Which meant it's been to a machine shop recently. The PO builds race cars. Once I got it going the motor ran great!
already had a decent besttop soft top.

Not bad for $800
To get it running required an new starter, battery and a cat. It had a junky 4 bbl and he threw in a mc 2100. Neither of which worked well. I got lucky and got a new weber 36 outlaw for $250 off CL.
All the gages work after a pc board cleaning.
I had to replace the ignition sw and head light switch.
So for <$1500 it was on the road.
since then I have replaced the heater core, belts, hoses ( including all gas lines and filler hoses.
I have since added an ARB bumper, a fold and go back seat( I have kids ), family style roll cage, full real seat belts.

My goal is to get to a 33 or 35" tire.

Oh yeah back to the plan ( for now ).... SOA the 8.8 in the rear. Then put in the D30 with 4.10's in the front with 3" springs SUA+ shackle lift 1" ( for now ) till I get parts to gather for a high steer mod. Then I'll SOA the front. I Got a trade in the works for a Spartan in the front.

Long term I'd like to get some thing selectable in the back. Since I haven't driven or been in a jeep with any other kind of locker I the rear I really don't know what I want. Use will be 50/50 on/off road. I Live at the foothills of the Cascades so I don't have to go too far. I don't think LS will be my preferred long term choice but it's what I have for now. If an 85$ kit gets it going for the next year or so ( If I even need it? ) Then I'm ok with that.

Last edited by Gausswave; 01-18-2014 at 01:24 AM.. Reason: had to do an axleswap in the post..back to the shop.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 10:07 PM   #19
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gausswave View Post
...Then put in the D35 with 4.10's in the front...
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Unread 01-18-2014, 12:54 AM   #20
imstillatwork
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D35's don't steer very well.
Just saying.
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Unread 01-18-2014, 01:23 AM   #21
Gausswave
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Originally Posted by imstillatwork View Post
D35's don't steer very well.
Just saying.
BAH... ment dana 30.

Whudddya mean 35's don't steer well? 35's steer great as long as you only want to go straight!!!
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Unread 01-19-2014, 01:33 AM   #22
Gausswave
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Got the axle mounts cut and ground off today.
Gave the replacement springs the wire brush and rattle can treatment. I'm hoping to get them back on the jeep tomorrow so I can get the new perches tacked into place but it's 38deg out side right now so I don't know if the paint will be cured enough. Sadly I don't have room to hang them in the shop.
img_0740_zps589853c9.jpg   img_0745_zps11cef3cf.jpg  
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Unread 01-19-2014, 02:25 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post
I'd love to have a selectable OX or ARB, but they are pricey!
OX locker, manual engage $840
New ring gear and pinion $220
Complete Install Kit $80
Shifter - Manual $ 90
Cable $50
Misc Stuff & Things $50
Time and effort to do the job $0
Total Investment: $ 1,330.00
.
The peace of mind you did it right the first time: Priceless.

http://www.ox-usa.com/content/17-installation-videos
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Unread 01-19-2014, 03:06 AM   #24
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
OX locker, manual engage $840
New ring gear and pinion $220
Complete Install Kit $80
Shifter - Manual $ 90
Cable $50
Misc Stuff & Things $50
Time and effort to do the job $0
Total Investment: $ 1,330.00
.
The peace of mind you did it right the first time: Priceless.

http://www.ox-usa.com/content/17-installation-videos
I have the better part of a machine shop in my garage. Mill, Lathe etc. I don't clam to be a real machinist by any stretch of the imagination. I haven't actually done a rear end but it doesn't seem all that hard from what I've read. Knowing what I do know I don't get $700 to 1000$ for a locker other than that its what the market will bare. I think I could almost make one. Seems to me cutting a R&P is more complicated than the locker. Funny thing I already have an ARB pump I got from work. Came out of a Toyota truck they used to have. Wish I could find it now. I'd use it for a trade.
I'm just going to run with it as is for now. The spider gears are a little worn and starting to pit but nothings chipped. The clutches still work when turned by hand and the R/P show .010" of backlash. Which is with in the .008 to .012. range and show no signs o wear. So worst case for now I effectively get an open diff. I still have a lot to do.
I need to mate the new perches, fix the dented dust covers for the brakes, attach the driveline, mount the springs so I can set the perch/driveline angle, weld in the shock mounts and then wire brush and paint the axle. Gotta wait till Friday to get calipers/pads. Work out a wither or not I'll need a traction bar an or what flavor.

Then I get to do the front D30 in stall next weekend if I'm lucky.
That's going to be repainting some 3" lift springs, + 2" shackles( I will probably fabricate) installing a different axle.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 03:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gausswave
I have the better part of a machine shop in my garage. Mill, Lathe etc. I don't clam to be a real machinist by any stretch of the imagination. I haven't actually done a rear end but it doesn't seem all that hard from what I've read. Knowing what I do know I don't get $700 to 1000$ for a locker other than that its what the market will bare. I think I could almost make one. Seems to me cutting a R&P is more complicated than the locker. Funny thing I already have an ARB pump I got from work. Came out of a Toyota truck they used to have. Wish I could find it now. I'd use it for a trade. I'm just going to run with it as is for now. The spider gears are a little worn and starting to pit but nothings chipped. The clutches still work when turned by hand and the R/P show .010" of backlash. Which is with in the .008 to .012. range and show no signs o wear. So worst case for now I effectively get an open diff. I still have a lot to do. I need to mate the new perches, fix the dented dust covers for the brakes, attach the driveline, mount the springs so I can set the perch/driveline angle, weld in the shock mounts and then wire brush and paint the axle. Gotta wait till Friday to get calipers/pads. Work out a wither or not I'll need a traction bar an or what flavor. Then I get to do the front D30 in stall next weekend if I'm lucky. That's going to be repainting some 3" lift springs, + 2" shackles( I will probably fabricate) installing a different axle.
Ok. But it's apart now, not a needed daily driver, and like someone's forum sig once said, "You always have the time and money to do it right the second time."

Posted via my pretentious iPhone.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 07:44 AM   #26
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireYJ View Post
Not sure how new that product is, but I see you are correct... However it looks like the part # you posted is for the F150...This looks like the Explorer 8.8...1987-2010 - FORD 8.8 - 31 SPLINE - REAR 1822-LR 92-0688-3108 92-0688-3128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gausswave View Post
...I have the 31 spline shafts. Most of the rebuild kits didn't state which axle shafts they were for....the parts guy said he didn't think the Ford Tecs used the official procedure either.....
I have not bought the parts for mine yet, but my understanding is the F150 limited slip clutches come with a heavier "S" spring. When the trac-lok is setup with the 'alternative' disc order and the F150 spring the /slip/ is more /limited/ - i.e. you get more positive traction going to the two tires than you do with the explorer LS carrier. Apparently this is a common low-buck upgrade for mustangs built for drag racing.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 12:30 PM   #27
Gausswave
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I have not bought the parts for mine yet, but my understanding is the F150 limited slip clutches come with a heavier "S" spring. When the trac-lok is setup with the 'alternative' disc order and the F150 spring the /slip/ is more /limited/ - i.e. you get more positive traction going to the two tires than you do with the explorer LS carrier. Apparently this is a common low-buck upgrade for mustangs built for drag racing.
Does the S spring act as a preload for the clutch packs? I thought that force would be provided by the deflecting action of the spider gears.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 01:57 PM   #28
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From a rebuild manual I understand the S-spring provides some preload; the spiders apply more force when a lot of torque is applied.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 03:25 PM   #29
Gausswave
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
From a rebuild manual I understand the S-spring provides some preload; the spiders apply more force when a lot of torque is applied.
So same thing I thought in different words!

Did the manual happen to give any tolerance as to how much end play the axle shaft should have? best info I've seen so far is somebody had a tec-DVD manual for the GT-40 that said .030". I can't imagine the explorer and the gt-40 are setup that same.

Now it gets ugly. I'm having to pull the axle shafts to fix and clean the dust covers. GEE so while I'm in there..

I'd love to inspect the clutch plates which leads toooo.....
"Gee while its apart might as well rebuild it while I'm in there...." Sigh....

So given my jeep parts budget 5 more weeks till I get to play again, >> IF << I rebuild this. Hmmm how much was that lunch box?
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Unread 01-19-2014, 03:35 PM   #30
Gausswave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post
Here's a great page showing how to replace the LSD Clutch packs - it actually doesn't look too bad.

http://unitedpantherownersassociatio...r-still-in-car

He mentions end play, and the spec for it, at the end of the article.
Bah I some how missed your post earlier. THANKS! That was the perfect link!
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