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Unread 09-14-2010, 09:09 PM   #61
mike600rr
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chesterfield MI
Posts: 2
I'm taking the 87 Ram Charger route. I pulled the 318/727 today, I'm putting a small stall in it, and I PLAN on using the radiator out of the charger. You mentioned wiring was $100. I have a 91 YJ was a 4.0 stick. What are your best tips and tricks on getting me on the road wire wise?

Unlike you I didn't plan, I bought the charger for $600 complete, drove it home, and pulled the engine, trans, and TC. I tempted to just SOA with the charger axles as I just fried my SECOND set of D30/35s, damn mud bogs! I have a 231F, and 231C; however everything looks so pretty and happy still bolted up from pulling it, I will have to convert to passenger side drop, I understand the steering will need attention from the SOA and passenger side drop, I'm just winging it and hoping you dudes will help me out!!! haha

Any help from anyone is important. We can fab and I LOVE saving $$$!!!!

Thanks

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Unread 09-14-2010, 10:12 PM   #62
Awesome
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Mike, out of curiosity, why aren't you just building the Charger? You'll save a lot of money and time seeing as how you are planning on putting most of the Charger under the Jeep.

Either that or you could just swap the Jeep's tub over to the Charger... that'd save a lot of work too. LOL
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Unread 09-14-2010, 10:23 PM   #63
Ziptied
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Did you swap axles?
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Unread 09-15-2010, 05:22 AM   #64
MoparFreak69
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mylilyj View Post
What radiator did you go with? Think I could use the zj radiator and electric fan?
ZJ radiator is too large dimensionally. I picked one up because the eyeball measurement said it might fit, nope. Its too tall and too wide unless you want to do some serious modding. The steering shaft needs to go through a section of where the radiator wants to be. Better off just getting one that fits, or using the stock 4 banger one like I am. 100+ degree heat and no problems whatsoever. I just used the taurus fan and even on low it cools it just fine.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 09-15-2010, 05:29 AM   #65
MoparFreak69
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike600rr View Post
I'm taking the 87 Ram Charger route. I pulled the 318/727 today, I'm putting a small stall in it, and I PLAN on using the radiator out of the charger. You mentioned wiring was $100. I have a 91 YJ was a 4.0 stick. What are your best tips and tricks on getting me on the road wire wise?

Unlike you I didn't plan, I bought the charger for $600 complete, drove it home, and pulled the engine, trans, and TC. I tempted to just SOA with the charger axles as I just fried my SECOND set of D30/35s, damn mud bogs! I have a 231F, and 231C; however everything looks so pretty and happy still bolted up from pulling it, I will have to convert to passenger side drop, I understand the steering will need attention from the SOA and passenger side drop, I'm just winging it and hoping you dudes will help me out!!! haha

Any help from anyone is important. We can fab and I LOVE saving $$$!!!!

Thanks
If you have everything for the passenger side drop (ie: T-case from Ramcharger and front axle) then it should be a cake walk to convert over to passenger side drop. The Jeep doesnt care which side it drops on, only the axle and t-case do. You will obviously have to do a custom exhaust, but you cant avoid that route anyway. You may have to modify the skid plate a bit for clearance but if I remember mine right it is pretty symetrical so I cant imagine any clearance problems. Swapping those axles under should be easy except dealing with the steering, which I imagine wouldnt be too difficult to get set up properly. If you can afford it, a high steer application would probably suit you best.

I am curious though, how in the heck do you blow up axles with a stock YJ drivetrain???? I have a MPFI 5.2 that I swapped in my 90 and after several months I cant get one to blow up. Burning tires on pavement doesnt even do it, Jeep is too light to argue with the engine torque! Maybe I just have the ability to provide just enough throttle for everywhere I drive.
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90 YJ 5.2 Magnum, AX-15, 231 SYE'd
D44 front, welded/trussed AMC20HD rear. 4.56 gears soonish.
Western 6 lug aluminum wheels, with 35x12.50x15 Wrangler MTRs
[SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/myj-build-2-years-ago-today-1197236"]MYj Build[/URL][/SIZE]
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Unread 09-15-2010, 09:04 AM   #66
mike600rr
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chesterfield MI
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A blue rusted out Ramcharger is ugly as hell compared to a black YJ Renegade, that's why I'm swapping! haha

I haven't swapped anything as of it. My jeep looks exactly like the one in this build, just a bumper, tires, and a frame up front. I split the 318 and the trans to put in a torque converter and possibly drill the 3 holes in the valve body (aka make a shift kit). The axles MIGHT carry over into the jeep, but if I can snag a D44/D60 full-floater w 3.73s. The Ramcharger, just didn't have the gears to be fun unless it was in 4 low :/

I'm already on a 2" body, 6"BDS, and TSL 33's (that look tiny!!!). I think after the SOA, I'll need 37-39s, so the D44/60 on 3.73s will be needed anyway. If you're reading this and near Detroit, I could use some 36+" radials- TSL, etc...

Thanks for the input already guys.
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Unread 10-30-2012, 03:35 AM   #67
SunDevilJeeper
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Hey stoveguy, you think you could shoot me some close up pics of the motor mounts? I've got the same exact Novak mounts that you have and I'm having some fitment issues.

From what I could see in the pics, you've got the mounts fully collapsed and the part that bolts to the engine is in the top hole. From what I'm seeing mine has to be in the bottom hole, I dunno.

Also, it appears that there's only one... tab thing I guess you could call it, on the driver side of the block, how did you mount it up there? Cause I can't figure it out.
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Unread 10-30-2012, 01:49 PM   #68
stoveguy01
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Yea as soon as the rain lets up Ill go out and take some, as for the placement that is all dependent on how you want it. thats the beuty of the nacak mounts is the give you alot of adjustment. the part of the mount the slides side to side I cut about an inch off so I could slide the eng a hair more to the passenger side. I set the mounts in the lowest seting when I installed them so it gave me the option of raising the eng at a future date if I desired. Hope that helps I will get some pics when I can also
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Unread 10-30-2012, 02:30 PM   #69
mylilyj
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Watch for front driveshaft clearance mine rubs trans at driverside full stuff.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 04:55 AM   #70
SunDevilJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoveguy01 View Post
Yea as soon as the rain lets up Ill go out and take some, as for the placement that is all dependent on how you want it. thats the beuty of the nacak mounts is the give you alot of adjustment. the part of the mount the slides side to side I cut about an inch off so I could slide the eng a hair more to the passenger side. I set the mounts in the lowest seting when I installed them so it gave me the option of raising the eng at a future date if I desired. Hope that helps I will get some pics when I can also
Tits, yeah that little piece they have on there makes contact with the bolt sleeves. It could go lower if that damn thing wasn't sticking out so I'm gonna cut that off.

I want to position it so I can reuse my stock driveshafts and keep the shifter as close to the stock location as possible as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mylilyj View Post
Watch for front driveshaft clearance mine rubs trans at driverside full stuff.
I swear to god if I even...
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1992 YJ - 5.2L V8
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Still not enough power.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 10:29 AM   #71
stoveguy01
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Ill give you the same advice Ive given a few others its up to you weather you take it or not, Do Not Base Your Engine Placement On Not having to modify your drivelines, your asking for nothing but troubles elsewhere in the swap. Ive done this swap 3 times personally have helped 5 others do this swap and am helping a couple people now. first reason I say this is I highly recomend using a conversion radiator wich are usually thicker keeping your t case in a close to or stock location is not going to give you enough clearence, also if you do not already have one I highly recomend using a sye the mega short one will give you more play room. in the end even if you have to modify your drivelines your going to have an easier time and will cost less in the long run than trying to modify everything around your drivelines.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 10:58 AM   #72
mylilyj
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X2.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 10:59 AM   #73
mylilyj
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Besidess if you cant afford a couple hundo on driveshaft work. You shouldn't be attempting swap.
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Unread 11-01-2012, 05:30 AM   #74
SunDevilJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoveguy01 View Post
Ill give you the same advice Ive given a few others its up to you weather you take it or not, Do Not Base Your Engine Placement On Not having to modify your drivelines, your asking for nothing but troubles elsewhere in the swap. Ive done this swap 3 times personally have helped 5 others do this swap and am helping a couple people now. first reason I say this is I highly recomend using a conversion radiator wich are usually thicker keeping your t case in a close to or stock location is not going to give you enough clearence, also if you do not already have one I highly recomend using a sye the mega short one will give you more play room. in the end even if you have to modify your drivelines your going to have an easier time and will cost less in the long run than trying to modify everything around your drivelines.
Now that I think about it, the engine is still gonna make it pretty tight with it all the way back and the radiator I have mind. Thanks for that bit of advice, you just saved me one big *** headache! Besides, the shifter location looks like it's way too far back with it aligned with the stock driveshaft location.

Novak makes a mega short SYE that I've been eyeballin for a while now, that and my buddy recommended Carolina Driveshafts to me a while back. Good stuff and they work quick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mylilyj View Post
Besidess if you cant afford a couple hundo on driveshaft work. You shouldn't be attempting swap.
Not to brag or anything but it's not a matter of being able to afford new driveshafts and what not, I can afford that no problem... finally! I was wanting to use as many stock parts as possible, I'm also WAY past the original deadline I had set due to being unemployed for over a year. Unfortunately the further I go into this, the more I'm finding out that's not the case. I recently discovered that the AX15 won't simply bolt to a skid plate that came with the AX5. Some holes need to be drilled. This is my first engine swap so I'm learning bit by bit. I've heard of cases where retaining stock driveshafts can work, but apparently that ain't gonna cut it in this case.
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Unread 11-01-2012, 06:06 AM   #75
mylilyj
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I used 46rh from donor zj. I used a radiator I picked up for bout 200. It had the inlet and outlet on correct sides and was 3core compared to stock 2core. Then put Taurus elective fan. I moved motor as far forward as possible. I still had to get super short sye and drill my center pin on spring perch 2 inches back and ended up with 17.5 inch driveshaft. I also welded some 1/4 inch plate to rear of skid cause tcase stuck out past rear of skid. I made my own frame side motor mounts and used the pick up truck mounts on motor side. Beefier. And i didn't like the mounts in front on the zj mounts.
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