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Unread 09-05-2011, 12:10 PM   #46
Quail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Question to the people about the lunchbox locker I thought they only locked when there was power to the drive shafts. That must be the only time because tjs have the solid axle and they have lunchbox lockers. A friend of mine has a tj with a lunch box locker and has no problems
You sure are quick to give out second and third hand inforrmation about parts and mods that you have never owned, installed or operated.

You should step aside when the expeirienced people choose to step in and help JRJ33P decide how he wants to build his rig.

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Unread 09-05-2011, 01:27 PM   #47
JFranko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283

The triple stick I was locking at was set up one stick engages or puts the front in neutral the other the back and the third stick was hi/low. You could make your jeep front wheel drive with it if you wanted. Another under drive would be sweet as well though. Quad stick case anyone. Lol
You're thinking of a twin stick, 2 of the sticks are for what you described, giving you 2 low and high, 4 low and high, and front low, plus neutral. The third is your underdrive, giving you 4 gear ratios.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 02:51 PM   #48
ads
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I also seem to manage to rip apart my vacuum tubes somehow (the last 2 times has been normal road / unpaved roads).
Whilst the posi-loc looks interesting - my front actuator seems fine so I'm considering just mounting a pneumatic solenoid valve up front so as to keep the lines as short as possible and as far away as possible from anything which can break them.

The valve looks to be about $20 or so - anyone seen it done before? Would be a load easier than having to get out and switch it manually every time
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Unread 09-05-2011, 03:05 PM   #49
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFranko

You're thinking of a twin stick, 2 of the sticks are for what you described, giving you 2 low and high, 4 low and high, and front low, plus neutral. The third is your underdrive, giving you 4 gear ratios.
Sweet thanks man you just saved me some money
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 05:20 PM   #50
SquidsYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ads View Post
I also seem to manage to rip apart my vacuum tubes somehow (the last 2 times has been normal road / unpaved roads).
Whilst the posi-loc looks interesting - my front actuator seems fine so I'm considering just mounting a pneumatic solenoid valve up front so as to keep the lines as short as possible and as far away as possible from anything which can break them.

The valve looks to be about $20 or so - anyone seen it done before? Would be a load easier than having to get out and switch it manually every time
You run the posi-lok to the inside of the jeep and connect the knob/pull to the instrument panel somewhere. There is no need to "get out and switch it manually everytime." That should only happen if you have manually locking hubs, and YJ's didn't come with those unfortunately.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:18 PM   #51
dancytron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ads View Post
I also seem to manage to rip apart my vacuum tubes somehow (the last 2 times has been normal road / unpaved roads).
Whilst the posi-loc looks interesting - my front actuator seems fine so I'm considering just mounting a pneumatic solenoid valve up front so as to keep the lines as short as possible and as far away as possible from anything which can break them.

The valve looks to be about $20 or so - anyone seen it done before? Would be a load easier than having to get out and switch it manually every time

Yeah, that's what I did. I did a writeup on it. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...witch-1247852/

I ran it up through the floor and mounted it under the dash. I drive though brush all the time and have never ripped it off (not yet anyway). The old original on had gotten loose and fell off constantly. Just make sure the vacuum lines are the right size to be extra tight.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:52 PM   #52
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe

OK, you're right. Feel better now?

In the future when you don't know what you're talking about, don't give information, that way it won't be wrong. Then you won't have to come back and whine about it later when someone points it out. I didn't give accurate information in order to start a pissing contest with you, again I'm sorry this has you so worked up, but that's the way it is.

I've never said my opinion is better. But my FACTS are certainly more accurate than your misguided assumptions.
None if this is fact its opinions that's the problem you think your OPINION is fact. I gave no bad info and you wouldn't have either if you acknowledged that it was your opinion. If its fact post links to reputable manufacturers or studies where this was discovered to be the case everytime with out fail. BTW everything can fail the question is how many points of possible failure do you want. That's what I have been saying the whole time. Now got get some vagisil and a midol and stfu.
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:56 PM   #53
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quail

You sure are quick to give out second and third hand inforrmation about parts and mods that you have never owned, installed or operated.

You should step aside when the expeirienced people choose to step in and help JRJ33P decide how he wants to build his rig.
You can join Tim. I made it clear where I got my info and what my opinion was. You also do not know what I do and don't have experience with. Again I say until you can link to reputable sources your opinion is not fact. The difference is I have admitted this is my opinion the whole time unlike some that think its a fact because they said it. Put up or shut up. You wanna give an opinion fine you Wanna give fact fine but be ready to back it up. Unless you have reputable proof do not try to put down other people.
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 08:14 PM   #54
JFranko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Now got get some vagisil and a midol and stfu.
Maybe you should heed your own advice. You haven't exactly been mr.friendly in here. In all honesty, I've agreed with everything timatoe has said, and have found very little good info from you other than a bad cable fitting will make the disconnect housing leak. What you said about the vacuum system being a good setup when properly maintained is bolonga. There are way too many moving parts that need to work for it to be functional.

As far as sources, I can't help you, there's no proper way to cite personal experience.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 11:24 PM   #55
timatoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
None if this is fact its opinions that's the problem you think your OPINION is fact. I gave no bad info and you wouldn't have either if you acknowledged that it was your opinion. If its fact post links to reputable manufacturers or studies where this was discovered to be the case everytime with out fail. BTW everything can fail the question is how many points of possible failure do you want. That's what I have been saying the whole time. Now got get some vagisil and a midol and stfu.
OK, here's your problem

#1 You don't know what you're talking about.

Proof here....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Cache is supposed to be vacuum
It's called a CAD = Central Axle Disconnect

#2 The OP NEVER asked about a homebrew posilock system yet you jumped right in and said he'd have to drill a hole. NOT TRUE = BAD INFO Then you went back in the next post and talked about the price for the unit he linked to, and again said he would have to drill a hole, and AGAIN NOT TRUE = BAD INFO

#3 You talk about water/mud etc. being able to get in and then later talk about boats and what not. The Jeep is not a boat, based on your logic the lube filler holes on the diffs, the stock vacuum system, the breather hoses, etc would all allow water/mud etc. to access the diffs. So once again Possible but not likely, hence why I originally said if someone were completely wreckless = BAD INFO

Have you actually looked at the end of the axle shaft at the C/knuckle? If not you should check it out because there's a big gaping hole at the end of the housing covered by a piece of clip together plastic, what do you think can't get in there that might seep through a threaded and sealed fitting on the CAD housing.

#4 You said he'd then have to worry about the cable catching on things. I simply pointed out that you would also have to worry about the vac. system, breathers, etc. So once more, you have no idea WTF you're talking about but spouting advice. Again BAD INFO

#5 I have actual experience with these things, I know for fact WTF I'm talking about. I don't need manufacturer studies to show that. Certainly somethings will fail, everything in fact at some point, but you've provided nothing to support your I heard one time from a friends cousin type BS. Perhaps you can provide studies to support what you've said, until then they're simply your uninformed and wrong opinion.

Once more, I was NOT trying to be an *** toward you, I was trying to provide the OP with FACTUAL real world info. Not simply an opinion or a second hand story. Had he asked whether he should do the posi lock or TJ/XJ shafts, I would have offered an opinion and as surprising as it may sound to you, mine would've agreed with yours.

Now, can we move on?
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Unread 09-06-2011, 03:01 AM   #56
JRJ33P
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clearly you guys are mates from way back lol.

thanks for the opinions guys, keep em coming if anyone else has an idea or do i dare say an OPINION

looks like i got some head scratching to do.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 05:31 AM   #57
ads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquidsYJ View Post
You run the posi-lok to the inside of the jeep and connect the knob/pull to the instrument panel somewhere. There is no need to "get out and switch it manually everytime." That should only happen if you have manually locking hubs, and YJ's didn't come with those unfortunately.
Well.... my current 'fix' to make the actuator work is just to run a short piece of vacuum tube straight from the vacuum source in the engine to the rubber attachment on the front axle.
To connect or disconnect my front axle at the mo - I literally have to get out and switch the rubber thingy round 180 degrees. Works - but would be nicer to have it working cleanly
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Unread 09-06-2011, 05:46 AM   #58
ads
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Originally Posted by dancytron View Post
Yeah, that's what I did. I did a writeup on it. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...witch-1247852/

I ran it up through the floor and mounted it under the dash. I drive though brush all the time and have never ripped it off (not yet anyway). The old original on had gotten loose and fell off constantly. Just make sure the vacuum lines are the right size to be extra tight.
Cheers for the writeup Trying to find companies that sell the required parts out here might be interesting - or at least - finding shops which speak english & sell them, but hey.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 11:50 AM   #59
dancytron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ads View Post
Well.... my current 'fix' to make the actuator work is just to run a short piece of vacuum tube straight from the vacuum source in the engine to the rubber attachment on the front axle.
To connect or disconnect my front axle at the mo - I literally have to get out and switch the rubber thingy round 180 degrees. Works - but would be nicer to have it working cleanly
McMaster Carr or Graingers has them (more expensive though). They ship anywhere I think.

If you know someone in the oil industry, they might know where to order something like that closer.

I had the lines run into the front of the jeep and put them together manually for about a month and that worked fine until I got the switch. At least I didn't have to go outside in the cold to do it.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 01:13 PM   #60
ErikJordan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRJ33P View Post
Hey guys...

surfing around the stores over your way, i came across this Posi-Lok system, and thought what a great replacement for the vacuum set up the YJ's have. http://www.quadratec.com/products/52435_0X_PG.htm

I have actually just recently had to repair one of the lines from the motor to the diff, and dont really feel like carrying out too many more repairs on it.

So, in saying that, before I jump up and down and get one on order, I just wanted to hear some feedback and reviews on it from you guys - see who's fitted them and how they go.


Thanx in advance.

The Posi Lock is a good option. If it is within your budget, get it and install it. You will have no more worries with the vacuum actuator.

There are some home-brew write ups that work similarly to the Posi Lock, but again, if it is within your budget to buy the branded Posi Lock, it is the way to go.

Do away with the vacuum actuator either way.

Another option is to swap in TJ axles and do away with the whole mess. This will necessitate your driveshaft being balanced, which it likely already is.

Have fun in your decision and be selective with from whom you take jeeping advise.
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What is all of this talk of Savvily designed products?
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