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Unread 09-05-2011, 01:15 AM   #31
JRJ33P
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFranko View Post
You can't twin stick an NP231.


IMO, the vacuum system is complete ****. I've been left without 4wd when I needed it 4 times. I'd replaced 2 actuators and the fork in it, the 4th time it would have taken another new fork to repair it, even with proper maintenance, the system is decent at best.

I have no experience with posi-trac, but I did my one-piece swap for less. I payed $70 for the shaft, $75 to have my driveshaft balanced and rebuilt, and $50 for the seals and a block off plate. It could be done cheaper if you get the shafts from pull-a-part, and source the seals and plate yourself instead of getting the kit. I payed $45 for 2 spares, wish I knew about that before I payed $70 for one


My YJ has only been driveable for 6mths in the nearly 3yrs i've had it and I've already had to repair a broken vac line. As i have bigger and better plans for the car, i really dont want to be potenitally fixing little things like that all the time. so i am starting to sway to the solid tj axle upgrade.

i dont know, i have some thinking to do! its hurting already lol

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Unread 09-05-2011, 01:33 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRJ33P View Post
My YJ has only been driveable for 6mths in the nearly 3yrs i've had it and I've already had to repair a broken vac line. As i have bigger and better plans for the car, i really dont want to be potenitally fixing little things like that all the time. so i am starting to sway to the solid tj axle upgrade.

i dont know, i have some thinking to do! its hurting already lol
Trust me, I was in your shoes at one point, do it. I originally went with repairing it since I figured with new parts, it'll work for at least another 10 years. Plus, it was cheaper. I put in what the solid shaft swap cost me in repairs for that CAD system alone, looking back it was one of the dumber things I've ever done, especially seeing how if everything comes apart the way it's supposed to, the swap can be done in around 3-4 hours.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 01:39 AM   #33
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Or you can spend 15 minutes and $1.36 for an e clip and lock the fork over permanently. Add some rtv to the gasket and Presto! Problem solved for now.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 01:43 AM   #34
JRJ33P
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Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Or you can spend 15 minutes and $1.36 for an e clip and lock the fork over permanently. Add some rtv to the gasket and Presto! Problem solved for now.
that wouldnt be a long term thing though would it?

what did you do yours if you dont mind me asking?
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Unread 09-05-2011, 01:53 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRJ33P View Post
that wouldnt be a long term thing though would it?

what did you do yours if you dont mind me asking?
I've seen guys run theirs this way for years. It doesnt hurt anything to just lock the fork if the moving parts are stuck in place rather than getting you stuck in a mud hole. As for me, I did the one piece shaft conversion on an axle that I had every intention of running but sold it to pay for the locker and regear in my current Dana 30. That extra axle had a 1/2" nut wedged inside because the previous owner's vacuum lines were shot. When I sold the axle I stole the actuator off of it and locked the fork over because when I switched transfer cases the donor came from a tj and wasn't set up for the cad but I made it work and kept the vacuum cad which still works well. I plan to run chromoly one piece shafts only because I'm running 35" tires and need the strength.

So basically every answer given on this thread has been in my build plans at one stage or another in the last three months and I've had them all installed on my axles so far. Which works for you?
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Unread 09-05-2011, 02:35 AM   #36
JRJ33P
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Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
I've seen guys run theirs this way for years. It doesnt hurt anything to just lock the fork if the moving parts are stuck in place rather than getting you stuck in a mud hole. As for me, I did the one piece shaft conversion on an axle that I had every intention of running but sold it to pay for the locker and regear in my current Dana 30. That extra axle had a 1/2" nut wedged inside because the previous owner's vacuum lines were shot. When I sold the axle I stole the actuator off of it and locked the fork over because when I switched transfer cases the donor came from a tj and wasn't set up for the cad but I made it work and kept the vacuum cad which still works well. I plan to run chromoly one piece shafts only because I'm running 35" tires and need the strength.

So basically every answer given on this thread has been in my build plans at one stage or another in the last three months and I've had them all installed on my axles so far. Which works for you?

Thats the other im thinking of, im running 33's with every intention of going to 35's in the not to distant future. another pro for the solid axle conversion?
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Unread 09-05-2011, 02:46 AM   #37
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I put an Aussie locker in my dana 30 and a posi-loc, I didnt put the tj or xj passenger side shaft in because I didnt want to expeirience any strange steering quirks on the road, it also gives me the 2 wheel low option with an np231.
My opinion of the posi-loc is that it is well worth the money if you intend to keep the cad axle. Your vaccum system will let you down if you do anything more than the tamest trailriding. I tore out my vac lines several times until putting in the posi-loc. I ve been using the posi-loc for about 4 years
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:28 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRJ33P

I've thought about doing a twin stick in the transfer later on down the line. can this be done with the stock transfer case or will i have source another T-case?? anyone know?
I don't know if you can do that with the np231 or not. I myself have been drooling over the triple stick ones I have read about. I think they are atlas ones. I think there was someone on here I forget which thread that twin sticker the stock one. I will do some research and get back to you on that one
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[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:37 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe

You gave bad info. I have no need to defend myself, I didn't give bad info. I spoke from experience, something you said yourself you don't have therefore you're operating off second hand info and assumption, both of which were wrong. If I were being a jerk about it, I would have quoted you, split it into multiple sections and picked it apart.

Sorry you're all butt hurt over someone giving correct info.

Let's move on.
No I did not give bad info I gave an opinion your giving bad info because you talk like your opinion is stock. Posi locks require a hole to get the cable inside the axle homebrew you drill buy they drill. A hole requires sealant to keep stuff out. Sealant can and does fail. Posi locks just add another point of potential failure. That is what I said there is no bad info there. I was raised on boats and use this theory. If you want to keep the water out don't drill holes in the hull of the boat because unless you have it fiberglassed any Sealant you use will eventually fail its not a question of if but when.
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 07:40 AM   #40
Siva283
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Question to the people about the lunchbox locker I thought they only locked when there was power to the drive shafts. That must be the only time because tjs have the solid axle and they have lunchbox lockers. A friend of mine has a tj with a lunch box locker and has no problems
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 09:08 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Question to the people about the lunchbox locker I thought they only locked when there was power to the drive shafts. That must be the only time because tjs have the solid axle and they have lunchbox lockers. A friend of mine has a tj with a lunch box locker and has no problems
I would love to jump back in here and answer if I knew what the question was. We can talk lunchbox lockers all day but in my first post I'm pretty sure I covered whatever it was you're trying to get across here.

JRJ33P, if you're still having problems deciding send me a PM. I'm washing my hands if this thread.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 09:42 AM   #42
JFranko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Question to the people about the lunchbox locker I thought they only locked when there was power to the drive shafts. That must be the only time because tjs have the solid axle and they have lunchbox lockers. A friend of mine has a tj with a lunch box locker and has no problems
You are correct, in 2wd they act like a noisy open differential. If you were deaf you'd never notice it, but when you make a tight turn, the gears make a clunking noise from the locker ratcheting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I don't know if you can do that with the np231 or not. I myself have been drooling over the triple stick ones I have read about. I think they are atlas ones. I think there was someone on here I forget which thread that twin sticker the stock one. I will do some research and get back to you on that one
You can't, the triple stick ones are essentially a twin sticked case with built in underdrive. It's the same concept as running dual cases. a guy in my club has a Toyota with that setup and it is 2.73, 4.0, and 10.92 low ranges.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Or you can spend 15 minutes and $1.36 for an e clip and lock the fork over permanently. Add some rtv to the gasket and Presto! Problem solved for now.
That's a band-aid fix. Unless you had it so the fork was held still, you'd still run in to the problem I had where the fork went bad and wiggled around so much that it didn't lock the two shafts together. I tried moving the fork over on mine by hand, wrapping the vacuum inputs in electrical tape, then putting it back on when mine broke on the trail, but it didn't do me any good.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 10:11 AM   #43
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I am not a fan of vacuum 4wd systems. It always seems like the colder it gets the less reliable the system becomes. To the point that you are laying on your back in the snow trying to get the blasted 4wd to work so you can drive up the hill to your apartment. That time it took a pair of vice grips on the actuator to get me home. That was in an s10, and I think the actuators are slightly different in jeeps.

When I bought my YJ and the PO told me that it needed a 4wd actuator, I decided I was going to convert it to use a cable. Then I got on JF and found that TJ and XJ axle shafts are almost a direct swap, so i was debating on which way to go until I found a CL ad last weekend for a pair of '96 xj front axle shafts for $40. I'll pull the drive shaft and get it balanced, pick up some seals, a piece of 1/8 inch steel for a block-off plate, and a 4wd switch from an xj tc (so my light works). When I'm done I think I'll be under what a posi-lock costs, and I'll have fewer moving parts to fail, though I expect to take a slight hit in fuel mileage.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 10:28 AM   #44
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFranko

You are correct, in 2wd they act like a noisy open differential. If you were deaf you'd never notice it, but when you make a tight turn, the gears make a clunking noise from the locker ratcheting.

You can't, the triple stick ones are essentially a twin sticked case with built in underdrive. It's the same concept as running dual cases. a guy in my club has a Toyota with that setup and it is 2.73, 4.0, and 10.92 low ranges.

That's a band-aid fix. Unless you had it so the fork was held still, you'd still run in to the problem I had where the fork went bad and wiggled around so much that it didn't lock the two shafts together. I tried moving the fork over on mine by hand, wrapping the vacuum inputs in electrical tape, then putting it back on when mine broke on the trail, but it didn't do me any good.
The triple stick I was locking at was set up one stick engages or puts the front in neutral the other the back and the third stick was hi/low. You could make your jeep front wheel drive with it if you wanted. Another under drive would be sweet as well though. Quad stick case anyone. Lol
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-05-2011, 10:39 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
No I did not give bad info I gave an opinion your giving bad info because you talk like your opinion is stock. Posi locks require a hole to get the cable inside the axle homebrew you drill buy they drill. A hole requires sealant to keep stuff out. Sealant can and does fail. Posi locks just add another point of potential failure. That is what I said there is no bad info there. I was raised on boats and use this theory. If you want to keep the water out don't drill holes in the hull of the boat because unless you have it fiberglassed any Sealant you use will eventually fail its not a question of if but when.
OK, you're right. Feel better now?

In the future when you don't know what you're talking about, don't give information, that way it won't be wrong. Then you won't have to come back and whine about it later when someone points it out. I didn't give accurate information in order to start a pissing contest with you, again I'm sorry this has you so worked up, but that's the way it is.

I've never said my opinion is better. But my FACTS are certainly more accurate than your misguided assumptions.
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