4wd not working (not the vac disco/front axle) shifter related. - JeepForum.com
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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:16 PM   #1
CDW_327
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4wd not working (not the vac disco/front axle) shifter related.

Ok my 4wd has always been kinda funny. At first the vac disco didn't work so I junked all of it and just locked the shift fork over by moving the c clips on the shift fork like in the write ups on here. After that my 4wd worked most the time but sometimes popped out and made some grinding noises shifting from 4low to 4hi, it's also hard to shift and has play and rebound in the shifter. Now the 4wd won't engage at all, the shifter moves just like before and even goes into 4low with gear reduction, there's just no power to the front wheels. I know the front axle is fine because I jacked up the front tire and spun it and the drive shaft spins like it should when in 4wd. Do you think it's just a linkage adjustment issue? Or something wrong in the tcase.

Also, when the front tire is jacked up and spun and the tcase is shifted to 4wd i hear a slight clicking in the tcase like its trying to engage. Any ideas? Oh also did a TT two weeks ago but the 4wd has worked with it installed so I don't think that is the cause.

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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:32 PM   #2
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When doing some modifications like a tummy tuck, body lift, transfer case skid drop, or even a motor mount lift, the transfer case linkage will not line up with the original cutout on the tub for it. When it is run even once in the half engaged position, the transfer case can be damaged and not engage correctly. I will presume that the tummy tuck was preceded by a SYE so it has been opened in the past. Not saying you did anything wrong, just saying cracking the case and taking a look is the best starting point followed by cycling through the gears while its on your workbench and testing operation before you install it back in the jeep. Then you can check your linkage and alignment once you get it installed.

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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:41 PM   #3
CDW_327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
When doing some modifications like a tummy tuck, body lift, transfer case skid drop, or even a motor mount lift, the transfer case linkage will not line up with the original cutout on the tub for it. When it is run even once in the half engaged position, the transfer case can be damaged and not engage correctly. I will presume that the tummy tuck was preceded by a SYE so it has been opened in the past. Not saying you did anything wrong, just saying cracking the case and taking a look is the best starting point followed by cycling through the gears while its on your workbench and testing operation before you install it back in the jeep. Then you can check your linkage and alignment once you get it installed.

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Well I did the SYE when I did my axle swap before my TT and I set the pinion high with the intention of doing the TT soon but I had shims in there in the mean time to keep the pinion angle In check but any way my SYE is a hack N tap so I did not take the tcase apart. I didn't adjust my linkage after the TT because it seemed to be working but today when I went to use the 4wd it was not there. It went into all the positions even 4low with gear reduction just no front axle drive. Maybe I should start by adjusting the linkage and go from there.

When adjusting, should the rod move freely in the adjusting block thing when the bolt is loose because in the past I believe it was not moving when I loosened the bolt.

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Unread 02-18-2013, 07:46 PM   #4
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The rod should move but only when there isn't opposing pressure on it from above or one of the detents below in the case itself. I would strongly suggest givin it a looksee starting with removing it and cycling throug the gears and checking operation.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 11:56 AM   #5
CDW_327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
The rod should move but only when there isn't opposing pressure on it from above or one of the detents below in the case itself. I would strongly suggest givin it a looksee starting with removing it and cycling throug the gears and checking operation.
Ok this morning I was messing with the tcase and was able to sometimes get it shifted into 4hi/4low by not Always, so I pulled the skid off and removed the shot linkage and shifted the case by hand. I couldn't get it to engage at all by hand. Should my next step be pulling the tcase? I know it was the first thing suggested but is it really necessary?

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Unread 02-19-2013, 12:57 PM   #6
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For me, gettin it out and having a 360 view of everything helps me get a grasp on the situation.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
For me, gettin it out and having a 360 view of everything helps me get a grasp on the situation.
Ok I got it pulled and split it on my work bench. The only thing i can find wrong is there are two shift fork pad things laying in the bottom of the case, which were the cause of a similar problem another member had which was the same as mine. I believe these could be the problem, what do you think?

Here a couple pics of them.


image-2066569368.jpg



image-848797723.jpg



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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:32 PM   #8
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Oh, also found blue plastic pieces laying at the bottom of the case???


image-4076619115.jpg

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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:33 PM   #9
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Yep. That'll cause the gears to not engage completely.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Yep. That'll cause the gears to not engage completely.
Ok well that's good news. Should I get a whole rebuild kit while I'm in there or just the pads? Thanks btw!

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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:47 PM   #11
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Check for wear. The biggest indicator is the chain. You can take it out and hold it sideways and it it looks like you should string it like a bow then you should replace more than just the chain. Check for chips on the teeth inside and triple check the magnet and filter.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 03:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Check for wear. The biggest indicator is the chain. You can take it out and hold it sideways and it it looks like you should string it like a bow then you should replace more than just the chain. Check for chips on the teeth inside and triple check the magnet and filter.
Ok got the chain, output shaft and shift forks out, the bigger shift fork is broken (see pic) so looks like I will be replacing that. All the bearings feel good, might take some of the parts and chain up to the tranny shop down the road and have them look it over.

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Unread 02-20-2013, 03:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDW_327

Ok got the chain, output shaft and shift forks out, the bigger shift fork is broken (see pic) so looks like I will be replacing that. All the bearings feel good, might take some of the parts and chain up to the tranny shop down the road and have them look it over.

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image-1607230261.jpg



image-53017119.jpg

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Unread 02-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #14
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You seem to be on your way to fixing it!!
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Unread 02-26-2013, 06:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
You seem to be on your way to fixing it!!
Ok got a new shift fork and new fork pads and starting to put it back together. Do you assemble the case with the shaft c-clipped on the smaller half of the case (non planetary side) and then slide it on the shift forks and large half of the case? I did it the opposite way and could not install the outer most c clip on the output shaft...

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