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Unread 01-11-2013, 08:42 AM   #1
Davpmars
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4 wheel drive not engaging

I have a 93 Wrangler 4 cylinder Manual. I recently changed the clutch slave cylinder in the transmition bell housing. I haven't needed 4 wheel drive until yesterday when we got 12 inches of snow. Now it won't engage. Usually after using 4 wheel drive I place it in reverse for a second to help it disengage and I hear a "click". I don't hear the click either making me think it's never engaging in the first place. Any ideas?

I have read a lot about vacuum lines but I don't remember seeing them or dealing with them when I removed the transmission. Where would they be?

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Unread 01-11-2013, 08:46 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davpmars View Post
I have a 93 Wrangler 4 cylinder Manual. I recently changed the clutch slave cylinder in the transmition bell housing. I haven't needed 4 wheel drive until yesterday when we got 12 inches of snow. Now it won't engage. Usually after using 4 wheel drive I place it in reverse for a second to help it disengage and I hear a "click". I don't hear the click either making me think it's never engaging in the first place. Any ideas?

I have read a lot about vacuum lines but I don't remember seeing them or dealing with them when I removed the transmission. Where would they be?
You should see a cluster of 4 vac lines on the drivers side top of the transfer case. 2 of them go to the fork/housing on your front axle. You will see it on the backside of the passenger side.

The pic shows the plate where my unit used to be.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 08:50 AM   #3
bernm8r
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They are on the passenger side of the front axle. They also connect to your transfer case. Basically when you shift to 4wd on the transfer case it swaps vacuum from the dis-engage side of the axle to the engage side. There should be a third line that activates your dash display of 4wd. These are very easy to fall off or disconnect from the axle. Inspect there first.

Good luck
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:14 AM   #4
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Pull that piece out and rearrange the clips to look like this


Make sure that collar is slid all the way over to the engaged position and reinstall the cad with the four bolts and some rtv as sealant. You may have vibrations at higher speed and might want to get your front shaft balanced.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:33 AM   #5
Davpmars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Pull that piece out and rearrange the clips to look like this


Make sure that collar is slid all the way over to the engaged position and reinstall the cad with the four bolts and some rtv as sealant. You may have vibrations at higher speed and might want to get your front shaft balanced.
Anticanman, can you give a little explaination on this post? I'm not sure what I am looking at here.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
Pull that piece out and rearrange the clips to look like this


Make sure that collar is slid all the way over to the engaged position and reinstall the cad with the four bolts and some rtv as sealant. You may have vibrations at higher speed and might want to get your front shaft balanced.
I lucked out with mine and haven't experienced any ill mannered shaft issues. Hopefully you won't either but as Anticanman mentioned, you may.
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What you see as not bad, and what I see as not bad, are two completely different not bads
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernm8r View Post
They are on the passenger side of the front axle. They also connect to your transfer case. Basically when you shift to 4wd on the transfer case it swaps vacuum from the dis-engage side of the axle to the engage side. There should be a third line that activates your dash display of 4wd. These are very easy to fall off or disconnect from the axle. Inspect there first.

Good luck
Well, in regards to the dash display, it has not worked for some time now. The wire (or so I thought it was) has been severed for a while when it touched something hot. I just zip tied it up out of the way supposing that i didn't need the dash light to illuminate.

Could that be the problem? I thought it was just a light.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davpmars View Post
Anticanman, can you give a little explaination on this post? I'm not sure what I am looking at here.
The four bolts that dirtkar referenced hold this majig onto your axle.



The pod looking majig is the place where the vacuum hooks up and moves the fork over to connect the two pieces of the passenger shaft to make it a fully functioning open differential. Otherwise, you have a broken shaft stub just hanging out and the path of least resistance that the power is taking from your transfer case is going to the aforementioned stub shaft and getting you nowhere.

Open it up and be prepared for as much as a pint of fluid to escape. Then look hard and remove the clip and emulate it as such referenced above. The whole process takes 20 minutes and that includes waiting for the rtv to come out of the tube at this frigid temperature.

If you have further questions, JF is open 24/7
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Unread 01-11-2013, 04:18 PM   #9
Davpmars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtKar
You should see a cluster of 4 vac lines on the drivers side top of the transfer case. 2 of them go to the fork/housing on your front axle. You will see it on the backside of the passenger side.

The pic shows the plate where my unit used to be.
I found the problem. It definitely was that "wire" which actually turned out to be 4 severed vacuum lines.

You don't have this vacuum system? Is there a better system that I can put on my jeep now that I have to spend some money anyways?
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Unread 01-11-2013, 04:39 PM   #10
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You don't have to spend any money to lock the fork over.

You could stick some $600 chromoly shafts inside if youd like. That's what I did.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 07:06 PM   #11
bernm8r
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I routed the vacuum lines into my cab and mounted a ball valve under my dash. I can control when I lock the front axle. I now have 2HI, 2LOW, 4Hi and 4LOW.

Cost was free with parts I had around. You could buy and build it for under $50

Very very easy. and pretty reliable. the weakest design are the hoses going to the vacuum disconnect ont he axle. They pop off pretty easily.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 10:43 PM   #12
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This link may help you out. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...meter-1306166/ TONS of info on this topic available.

You can just lock the fork over like Anticanman showed in the photo but you will lose your 4wd indicator lite. I did an XJ axle shaft swap to get rid of the 2 piece axle and the vacuum stuff. Sooooo, no lite for me either....yet.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos14 View Post
What you see as not bad, and what I see as not bad, are two completely different not bads
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris87xj View Post
I am kinda partial to white.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
That's racist, Chris.
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Unread 01-12-2013, 10:19 AM   #13
Davpmars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman

The four bolts that dirtkar referenced hold this majig onto your axle.

The pod looking majig is the place where the vacuum hooks up and moves the fork over to connect the two pieces of the passenger shaft to make it a fully functioning open differential. Otherwise, you have a broken shaft stub just hanging out and the path of least resistance that the power is taking from your transfer case is going to the aforementioned stub shaft and getting you nowhere.

Open it up and be prepared for as much as a pint of fluid to escape. Then look hard and remove the clip and emulate it as such referenced above. The whole process takes 20 minutes and that includes waiting for the rtv to come out of the tube at this frigid temperature.

If you have further questions, JF is open 24/7
I think I am liking this option the most right now, but, won't this mean I will be stuck in 4 wheel drive all time? If this isn't the case then why did Jeep make this design in the first place?
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Unread 01-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #14
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Four wheel drive is determined by the selection of the transfer case, not by emulating exactly what jeep did before and after this model. Check your fork for cracks at the base, you may need to replace it if there is a lot of slop. It's a whole $11. Whoopty doo.
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