4 cyl 33" tire help - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
jschilling
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4 cyl 33" tire help

Hi, I have a 93 YJ, it is a 4cy and has a 5 speed manual transmission, that is basically stock and want to do some modifications to it. I know nothing about cars or installing and am going to have everything done by v3 Jeep Shop but i would like your alls opinion on the best way to get my jeep lifted and 33" tires but still have it able to go around 60-65 on the highway. My budget is around $2000-$2500. Sorry if this is a redundant question.

Thanks,
Jeb

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post #2 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 03:32 PM
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A 4" lift kit can be had for about $450 from Rough Country, you need a T-case drop to keep the driveline angles in check, so another $50 ($500 total). Then of course you need the 33" tires which can probably be had for around $185 a tire for BFG AT (x5, 4 tires and a spare, $1425 total sofar), and now you need a new rear axle, because 33" tires can snap the D35 like a twig, so add in another $500 for parts/labor to install the axle ($1925), then of course you are going to need 4.88 gears at the minimum (over your 4.10 stock gears) if you want to go anywhere, which means you're looking at around $150 per gear set, plus labor to install them which can be anywhere from $400 to over $1000 depending on where you take the Jeep to (lets just say $500 to install the gear, so now you're at $3220). Then that's not even including labor, so you might be into it closer to $5000 if you want to do it right the first time rather than have to go back through and re-do your mistakes.

Don't think I am missing much from there.

It can get really expensive if you don't know what you are doing, as you can see. If you have never offroaded a Wrangler before, then stick with 30" AT tires, and a 1" boomerang shackle lift. That Jeep can go a LOT of places in its stock form, even more with a little bit bigger tire (like a 30").

33" tires are going to need a re-gear, otherwise your 4 cylinder isn't going to go anywhere anytime soon. 0-60 speed might be a few minutes at best with your foot to the floor. Obviously you can't merge onto the highway going 40mph.

If you are hell bent on bigger tires and lifting it, then consider a 2.5" lift and 31" tires. That way you aren't going to mess up your rear driveline angles too badly (improper driveline angles can cause a lot of vibrations and can potentially wear out components to the point of failure), and you can at least manage with your stock 4.10 gears. Don't forget to delete your Track Bars and get Swaybar Quick Disconnects, as well as longer brake lines.

All about that unibody life.
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post #3 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 03:38 PM
jokerchief462
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It can be done but arefully. When you lift you change the suspension geometry and the steering. I did the lift put on the 33s and then SYE, custom shaft and some steering parts. My four angry squirrells will run 65 on the flat no wind after the first mile. Downhill with a tailwind 75. But when you get uphill you will be in third pushing 3K just to maintain 55-60. It is not pretty when you are on two lane mountain roads. Off road it is fantastic no issues wheeling with 4" lift and 33s. I will be regearing after a Ford 8.8 rear axle change but right now I am slow.

89YJ 2.5L TBI, AX-5, NP231 SYE, Ford 8.8, Yukon Grizzly, Tom Woods Shaft, 33" BFG T/As, 4" lift, Warn VR10000s.

AF Jeep Club Tail #184
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post #4 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 03:44 PM
Rproject
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I ran 33's on stock axles and a 2.5 for over 2 years and didn't snap a thing. Rancho 2.5" lift, transfer case drop, Dick Cepek Crushers 33x12.5x15 on Cragar soft D's with 4" backspacing. Getting up to 60-65 was doable on flat ground. Up hill? No. Down hill? Sure. I topped out at 75 on flat land. I didn't snap anything because I stay out of the skinny pedal. The 4:10's are made for crawling. Let the gears and the engine do the work for you.

1996 White ZJ
1987 Maroon YJ (sideways build)
1996 Forest Green XJ

The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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post #5 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 03:51 PM
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2.5L engines were equipped with 4.10's due to their lower power output, FYI.

All about that unibody life.
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post #6 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
jschilling
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Thank you all so much for the help! This might be a stupid question but would it be a bad idea to swap out the engine before i did other modifications. I read that doing it can give you alot of issues with torque and stuff. Also if I did go for the engine swap how much money would we be talking about?
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post #7 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 04:03 PM
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Keep it as is, engine swaps are in depth and take a good chunk of change, preferably a donor vehicle.

All about that unibody life.
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post #8 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschilling View Post
Thank you all so much for the help! This might be a stupid question but would it be a bad idea to swap out the engine before i did other modifications. I read that doing it can give you alot of issues with torque and stuff. Also if I did go for the engine swap how much money would we be talking about?
You probably don't want to hear this (I sure didn't when I bought my carbed 6 cyl), you would probably be better off timewise and financially to sell it and find one with a 6 cylinder. If you it is bone stock then you might not be out much money. Lots of people don't seem to mind 4 cylinders if they are going to keep it stock and just cruise it around. It still wont be awesome with 33s but at least you could find 4 cyl axles with 4.10s (possibly an 8.8 for the rear), thats what I did.
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post #9 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 04:16 PM
0verkillYJ
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If you have a stick then you have an AX5. If that is the case you will lose 5th gear. Highway driving with tires over 31" will break the snap ring on 5th normally. It is so common there is even a special piece you can buy to hold the snap ring in place when it is fixed. The best fix for it is an AX15 though. If you regear before putting on the 33's you should be ok though.

95 YJ, 2.5 AX15 conversion, 4.0 TB, SOA +1.5", 33" DC Crusher Tires, 8.8 Rear w/welded tubes + LSD, Spartan Locker HP30 Front w/solid axle swap, Rocky Road OTT kit, JKS Disconnects, AA SYE, Teraflex Shock Bar in Rear, 1/2" Boomerang Shackles, RE Add a Leafs, Homebrew Traction Bar, Monstalined in&out, LED Tail lights, 1700 Watt Stereo
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post #10 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 05:10 PM
Carlos14
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As others address your gearing options, I'll address the lift options.

Do not get a Rough County lift kit. You will not be happy. I do not recommend getting any lift "kit" rather you will be much better off piecing it together. I went with Superlift 3.5" leaf springs with bushings, new shocks, and a t-case drop. That is really usually all you would need. That and relocation of your brake lines. That is plenty of room for 33s and if you wanted to add a pair of 5/8" boomerang shackles it will certainly help.

Here are the front springs, 2 of these
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...n=SUP01-545F-6 ,

and 2 of these
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...n=SUP01-545R-6 ,

and a set of bushings, and you're half way there for under $250

Luck Favours The Prepared
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post #11 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 05:13 PM
Cherokid
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for comparison purposes only...

I'm running an '89 2.5, 5 spd, 31's, 4" lift, 4.56 gears (rear limited slip.) 65/70 mph is doable but not easily. I wish I had gone 4.88 gears instead. That would be about 3300 to 3500 rpm at 70/75-ish which would be fine. I drive my jeep every day, wheel trails that are difficult to walk up, have taken it to Northern Ca, camped in the Sierra's and can still fit in underground parking structures. (Read that as 'easy to live with'). Your '93 makes a bit more power I suspect because of the newer/better fuel delivery system but on that budget and that set-up you would have a capable, easy to live with good looking (in my opinion) jeep. The gear swap was $1400 for gears and the limited slip (closer to $1100 w/o the limited slip) where I dropped it off in the morning, and picked it up in the afternoon. I hope this helps but whichever way you go post pics, let us know how it's going!

Good Wheelin to ya!
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post #12 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 05:20 PM
Randonexplosion
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On the lift do what Carlos said. Just go with a quality spring. BDS, Old Man Emu etc. You can always do a small (1") body lift as well to keep driveshaft angles acceptable. OME 2.5" springs and a body lift would probably fit 33" tires pretty well.
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post #13 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 05:33 PM
Blackfish
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You want 75 or eighty no problem with plenty to burn, try my recently discovered improvement, hub conversion no shakes no rattles, andlenty of roll, what an improvement, I run 33s with plenty of extras, and I can fly like the wind in my 2.5.

I have had 4.0, 4.3' and 2.5s, you go trade your jeep in for a 4.0 if I had the money I would take the 2.5 and fix and run with you all day long. I'm 50 and have had 4 wheel drives all my life horse power to weight ratio and gearing are the secret and the 2.5 when treated properly will perform magically. So if you measure your weenie by horsower by all means get rid of the little engine now. But someone with a big wanker will buy it cheap and be right behind you on the trail.

I have a 4.0 therefor I win games with my game face alone, I have a 2.5 and well it came in my jeep and I will love it and treat it with respect oh and quess what, if your 2.5 will nor run 70 miles an hour with 33 s you need to find out what's wrong with it, cause its broke.

My boss made the comment that "I bet you missed me over the holiday break",my response was "yes your right I did, but my aim is getting better"
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post #14 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackfish View Post
You want 75 or eighty no problem with plenty to burn, try my recently discovered improvement, hub conversion no shakes no rattles, andlenty of roll, what an improvement, I run 33s with plenty of extras, and I can fly like the wind in my 2.5.

I have had 4.0, 4.3' and 2.5s, you go trade your jeep in for a 4.0 if I had the money I would take the 2.5 and fix and run with you all day long. I'm 50 and have had 4 wheel drives all my life horse power to weight ratio and gearing are the secret and the 2.5 when treated properly will perform magically. So if you measure your weenie by horsower by all means get rid of the little engine now. But someone with a big wanker will buy it cheap and be right behind you on the trail.

I have a 4.0 therefor I win games with my game face alone, I have a 2.5 and well it came in my jeep and I will love it and treat it with respect oh and quess what, if your 2.5 will nor run 70 miles an hour with 33 s you need to find out what's wrong with it, cause its broke.
Its not about ego or pecker size buddy. How much is he going to pay to have a shop regear his axles vs the minimal cost difference between a 2.5 and 4.0 Wrangler? In my area a lot of them sell for the same. Not saying you are full of crap but 4 cylinders and a brick doesn't make me think "fly like the wind"
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post #15 of 56 Old 04-02-2013, 07:29 PM
Xpress
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The 4 cyl are adequately powered with the right tire and gearing combination. I used to DD mine and could do 65mph without much issue with 4.10 gears and 29" tires. I used to do the same on 31's. But it's not going to survive well doing 80-mph+ all the time, considering it's pushing 3000rpm at 70, closer to 4000 at 80. It stops making torque at ~3200rpm.

All about that unibody life.
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