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Unread 02-21-2011, 07:18 PM   #106
mdrobb
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I hooked up pin 20 alternator field driver to one of the 12 volt supplies in the fuse box that was always on. My notes say that pin 57 is the automatic shut down relay output. Not sure if that would work. I believe my notes are from a '94 Cherokee.

I used the same circuit for the A/C and Aux fan, but used a separate resistor for those.

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Unread 02-21-2011, 11:31 PM   #107
lclark2074
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pin 57 is the (injector sense /generator feed)it also is the feeds to the alternator field and your right it gets power from the shout down relay.witch should be 12 when the power is on.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 11:05 AM   #108
lclark2074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
OK here's the wiring diagrams for the bulkhead connectors, and the ecm pinout
Two questions first are there any wires from the xj light side you keep?
second are you keeping the xj harness disconect plug or the yj harness disconect plug. i see the drawing is for a xj bhd disconect. iam getting confused by the righting on the side of the drawing?
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Unread 03-07-2011, 12:40 PM   #109
cevans87
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you keep none of the XJ lights... you can seperate the bulkhead connector into 2 pieces, the pieces are divided by the holding bolt in the middle, one side is molded into the unit and the other will seperate... the one that seperates is the lighting side... you take the lighting side out of the XJ harness and replace with the lighting side of your YJ harness... be careful though, depends on what your doing as to what you want plugged up at the bulkhead... if you have questions please call me, it's easier to help you out over the phone rather than over the site... (434)582-0148
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Unread 03-08-2011, 10:10 AM   #110
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So now I will be changing the axles and the clutch set because I had a hard weekend on the trail. The axles will be out of a 4cyl wrangler with 4.10 gears. I will clean both up and install my ssbc disc brakes. The clutch I can get in a set from auto zone for $160 which comes with clutch, presure plate, concentric throwing bearing, clutch tool, and pilot bearing. While the tranny is out I will presurewash the tranny and xfercase and paint both and drain and change fluids. With start asap and start a writeup on the thread as this is my build thread
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Unread 04-01-2011, 03:09 PM   #111
cevans87
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this is for the gentleman that called and needed these diagrams...
last_0001.jpg   last_0002.jpg  
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Unread 04-01-2011, 03:18 PM   #112
remmons
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I have almost forgotten about this thread! I have had so much going on with my life that I have not had much chance to work on my Jeep.

Good luck to those who are undergoing, or are in the process of their 4.0L conversion. It is not easy, but it can be done.

Now, on to my bad injector on the #1 cylinder....
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Unread 04-01-2011, 11:10 PM   #113
lclark2074
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thank you agin i figured most of it out but this will help with alot
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Unread 04-21-2011, 06:46 PM   #114
cevans87
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Ok sorry its been so long, im doing this from an ipad so after it is posted i will edit for readability...

My rear axle toasted after wheeling, mainly due to me not recapping the holes for the brake hold down, but none the less it was fried...

To start you place the vehicle on jackstands after loosening the lugnuts... Then crab someing the catch the oil in and remove the rear diff cover...

After removeing the diff cover, let it drain while you proceed...

Take the wheels, drums, brakes off both sides... Pretty self explanitory... If not get a haynes manual

Go back to the diff and remove the 8mm screw holding the center pin in...

Push one axle in from the wheel side and get the c-clip that holds it in out, then do the same for the other side... Once both clips are out put the centerpin and screw back in to hold the spider gears from falling out...

Next remove the driveshaft completely....

Remove the pinion the pinion nut that was behind the driveshaft, but putting something solid on Like a prybar on the carrier side to keep it from spinning...

Now remove the bearing caps on each side of the carrier...

The carrier might need a little finess to come out but shouldnt be too hard...

Once it is out pull the pinion out...

Clean everything inside of the housing and even pull your shaft and wipe them down with some clean gear oil...

Replace your bearings, and races on the carrier, after mounting your new ring

Now comes the tricky part... You need to identified what your old matched set was by looking at the tip of the pinion gear and the ring gear, and the same with yoyr new set... I will include a chart when i edit that will let you cross reference and see what shims you need to put on your new pinion...

Once identified, you will put you new crush sleeve and shims on the pinion and install it WiTHOUT the seal...

Put the carrier back in and put the pinion nut back on...

You now need to crush your new sleeve, a lot of torque is required so just be ready for this...

You will want to tighten the nut untill all play is gone in the pinion, meaning you cant move it in or out or side to side... Once you have no more end play, you will remove everything and put your pinion seal on with some oil coated on the lip, no reinstall everything again and put your pinion nut on, this time taking it back to zero endplay and tighening to inlbs, yes i said inlbs....

Now you need a tube of white lithium grease... Place it on the ring gear teeth and turn the pinion by hand
Untill the ring gear goes around 1 full time... Look at your grooves and make sure the pattern it put out is within standards...

Now reassemble the same as disassembly...

I will include a couple of charts and torque specs when i upload the pictures....



The fron axle is almost the same, but with no c-clips... You will need to remove both wheel bearings, and the vaccum disconnect on the axle... And of course the brakes and calipers... You will need to use the shim chart i will provide to see what shims to use...

I know im making this sound easy, and if you follow the charts it really is, you dont really need a dialindicator, but using one always helps if things arn't looking good on your patterns...

With anything make sure you have evrything before you start and have a degree of knowledge of what your doing, this is a guide not a step by step instruction... But so far this has always worked for me and i have done quite a few gear swaps... Doing it yourself and learning how do to it on a saturday afternoon is much better than spending a couple of hundred dollars for someone else to do it..

BReAK IN... This very importint...

After your install, drive 15-20 miles normal driving... Cannot be more or less than 15-20. After you get done... Park it and forget about it for the night... No towing or playing in the jeep for 500 miles... Change the diff oil and your golden till you need to change it again....
images.jpg   hjtyhjtyj.jpg   ergrtgrthrth.jpg   jtyjtyjtyjtyjtyjtyj.jpg   hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.jpg  

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Unread 04-26-2011, 12:16 PM   #115
muttboy
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help!!!

does your yj bulkhead diagram work for a 95 yj dash harness. I hooked everything up just like ypu layrd out and got nothing but a seatbelt light!
Im usuing a 91 xj harness and computer, 95 dash and dash harness, and a 87 steering column.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 08:29 PM   #116
cevans87
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muttboy--- talked to you today on the phone, going to update this so everyone who reads and wants to know what is going on understands the situation...

muttboy had a 1987 YJ brought to his shop to do a bunch of things such as a frame off, 4.0L conversion with new 4.0, ax-15 conversion with new ax-15, and a new xcase... along with this the owner wnted the newer YJ gauges...

muttboys problem seemed to be to many things at once...

the 4.0L conversion is pretty straight forward, and you can do it many different ways, the asiest way I've found is to keep the 4.2 harness in the vehicle, drape the 4.0 harness over the existing 4.2 harness and tie in what you need to run the fuel injection... 5 for Fire Theroy

Along with that he was under the impression that changing out the dash and dash harness to the newer style would be plug in play...

I have advised him that he should leave the original dash harness in place, and tie the newer guages to the older harness, this seems to be the simplest way to do it and I have done it myself to one of my older YJ's, the only problem with this is that the new tach must be for a 4.0 or your tach will be off a lot... and the original clock wire (pink) will have no place to call home...

I have him on the right track and will update again as soon as we get everything straightend out...
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Unread 04-26-2011, 08:57 PM   #117
cevans87
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Also... for those who care. Just finished up ith the new rear main seal, and put in a Melling High Volume Oil Pump... is it worth it you ask?

For the $10 extra it was and came with a new pickup tube when the new stock oil pump doesn't...

HELL YES !!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm sitting at 75 PSI at startup and don't drop below 50PSI ever!!! Great oil presure helps keep a motor running.

I do have an extra 3/4 quart of oil in though because it holds more oil in it... didn't go with the rear pan baffle due to time constrants, but will be doing it next time i'm in her guts...

The reason oil presure is crucial is to keep everything lubed... for those of you asking the question...

Didn't have to many problems putting it in, about 5 minutes with a ball pen hammer (where the oil pump sits, the pan needs to be beat down about 7mm) just make sure after it's in and before you put the pan back on and start it up, you rotate the motor by hand a full revolution to ensure the rods, and crank are not going to hit it...

Stock Oil Pump 69.99 (No Pickup Tube)
HV Oil Pump 79.99 (New Pickup Tube)

You do the math !!!
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Unread 04-28-2011, 09:12 PM   #118
Kman1983
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Great thread!! I just found it today and read through it. I did a 4.0 swap in my '83 CJ5 a couple of years ago. Getting ready to do a 4.0 head, MPFI swap on my wifes '89 Lerado 4.2with AC & serp belt. I picked up a '91 YJ engine wiring harness, which I have read is a plug in conversion but I haven't verified that yet with the FSM wiring diagrams. I also picked up the speedo cable and VSS off from the '91 YJ so no adapter needed. The '89 has the TF999 so I figure I can make a CPS adapter(like I did on my CJ bellhousing) but I'm not sure which 4.0 flexplate to buy. I have an AW4 flexplate('95 XJ) but not sure if I can use it. I had contemplated using the AW4 and grafting in the '95 XJ harness and TCU but that might be a whole other can of worms!!! Any how thanks for the write up!!
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Unread 04-29-2011, 11:14 AM   #119
Ronnie-Evans
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100 miles more to a tank? Dang I must have gotten ripped off! I have better fuel economy but not 100 miles more a tank and I have the mopar kit
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Unread 04-30-2011, 03:27 PM   #120
cevans87
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Depends on what your setup is. Gearing, tires, condition of the motor, tranny.... Let me know what your setup is and I will try and help you out
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