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Unread 11-19-2010, 07:50 AM   #76
yjcrawlr
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Hey Corey! I just wanted to say great job on the swap. I haven't been on here for a while cause I've been doing a 5.3 swap on my 67 scout. Jeep forum is still the best place for swap information and you've made a good contribution.
Selby

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2014 JKU, modified Rubicon Rails, RC stubby with warn 8000m, 2" leveling springs and OME trim spacers, Superchips Flashcal, Spidertrax wheel spacers, rubi shocks, and Lots more mods soon!!!
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Unread 12-04-2010, 10:02 AM   #77
JaySch
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Fantastic build page, thanks for you commitment. I'm planning to do the same thing with my '85 CJ-7. Originally it had a 4 cyl. in it, and this past summer I did a quick rebuild on a 258 and dropped it in. Using a GM HEI distributor and a weber carb, I was able to pull the majority of the wiring and vacuum lines.

I considered doing the junkyard GM 4.3 tbi swap, however my goal is a 4.6 stroker, and the GM 4.3 tbi doesn't move me toward that goal (at least in terms of the full potential of the stroker.

Because of the number of guys with 258's in their CJ's, a wiring diagram for the CJ conversion would be a big help to many. I'm looking to see if I can find one in my manuals, but I was wondering if you have one you may be able to post. Thanks again for the dedication , Great post!

Were off to hunt Christmas trees in the snow with the CJ-7
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Unread 12-04-2010, 05:42 PM   #78
cevans87
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yea i have the cj diagrams, just let me know which ones you want, and what you need diagrams for... i appreciate everyones feedback on my thread.... i put a lot into it and it's really paying off
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Unread 12-04-2010, 05:45 PM   #79
cevans87
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the 4.0 alternator will bolt up inplace of the 4.2 alternator with modifications... the 4.0 alternator will fit on the 4.2 bracket but the 4.0 alternator will need to be flipped upside down.... so instead of the alternator connections on the 4.0 being on the bottom like they should be... it will need to be installed with them on the top....
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Unread 12-04-2010, 07:05 PM   #80
lclark2074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
the 4.0 alternator will bolt up inplace of the 4.2 alternator with modifications... the 4.0 alternator will fit on the 4.2 bracket but the 4.0 alternator will need to be flipped upside down.... so instead of the alternator connections on the 4.0 being on the bottom like they should be... it will need to be installed with them on the top....
this sound so cool and easy to get rid of the check engen light
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Unread 12-04-2010, 07:09 PM   #81
JaySch
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Right now my bulkhead connection is from a '85 4 cyl. CJ-7. Much of the wiring was pulled, including the computer after the 258 was swapped in. Only slight modifications such as a relay were installed in the harness to allow for the GM HEI. I have a 258 harness, but didn't use it in the swap because the without the OEM distributor, carb, and computer., and there for the majority of the harnesss wasn't being used.

That said, I'm looking for a Buldhead and CPU diagram for the '85 4 cyl. CJ-7, however the bulkhead and CPU diagram from a mid 80s 258 would probably be very helpful to many, including myself as well.

As soon as I send this reply, I'm going to send a link to a friend who is doing this same 4.0L head and EFI swap.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 09:36 PM   #82
Douglas S.
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A nice lift makes getting that oil pan off a breeze.

Great write up.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 11:03 PM   #83
yotefever
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Great right up!
I have been thinking of doing the 4.0 head swap on my 4.2 engine since my son recommended doing it. I have a 95 xj4.0 motor with fuel inj and all the wiring harnesses but just haven't found the ambition to get it done. That and being out of work for so long and being short on $. I was thinking of leaving the weber carb on it but the mileage increase and performance benefits sure are making me think twice about the weber. I was hoping to find an easier fi to install but I'm sure it would cost more money.
Now I think if I plan to do it, it will have to wait until the weather warms up, single digit temps starting on Monday

Thanks for all the info!
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Unread 12-05-2010, 09:20 AM   #84
cevans87
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will be going through the diagrams today and getting what you need... and I do have a lift, about 5.5inches of lift... the old oil pan gasket had fused itself to the block, it took a torch to get it off
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Unread 12-05-2010, 09:31 AM   #85
cevans87
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UPDATE !!!!

I know I haven't updated on the Jeep in a while...

I have since put on a Hesco Aluminum Head and Adjustable Roller Rockers, UNICHIP, MSD 6A, and wired in my fuel pump cutoff switch and hooked up my air/fuel ratio guage.

I will deff say that she has a lot more balls now, and gas mileage is going up every fill up (because the ecm is building an EPROM) (an EPROM is a memory of how the vehicle drives, the ecm stores like 10 trip logs and decides a lot of sensor output based off that information) so as the ecm builds an EPROM, gas mileage will continue to get better untill your maxed out.

I like and don't like the aluminum head from hesco.

Pros - Really Light, don't have to take head off to change lifters, good heat disopation, and thicker....

Cons - The valve cover holes strip out easily requireing helicoils

I had the head milled .060 and had to double shim the roller rockers with a .060 shim and a .056 shim...

If anyone needs information on how to figure your lifter preload... let me know.

The UNICHIP and the MSD 6A are pretty straight forward and you see a noticeable difference...

The fuel pump switch is just a three prong switch, one hote wire, one feed wire to the pump, and a ground...also acts a theft deterent, but remember to cut it on, or you'll run out of gas and feel dumb

With the head milled, it does raise compression slightly... but there is no need for more or less fuel in the system... the pistons are dished so there is no need to worry about valve clearance... so right now after many many math calculations... this is where im sitting at...

Motor - 4.6L
Intake - 99+ WJ High Flow
Exhaust - Standard
UniChipped
Head - Hesco Aluminum Milled .060
Rockers - Adjustable Roller
Pushrods - Standard
Lifters - Standard
MSD Ignition
Hesco Adjustable Fuel Presure Regulator

266 HP/315FT Lbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! With more to come ?

I'm also adding Banks Torque Tube Headers, and an Avenger Supercharger after x-mas...

So then I will be sitting at around 320HP/400FT LBS...

If i went the turbo route, I would eat up a lot of free space in the engine compartment and risk breaking things in the long run... I have had a lot of trouble with turbos in the past, as they age, seals break down... I have fins sitting in my garage from the last turboed vehicle I had... the fins are not on the disc anymore...

With a supercharger I will get the power I'm looking for... it this was being built for Jeepspeed then I would go turbo... because nothing will get up and go like a spooled out T3 Turbo once you hit about 1700rpms boosting 20+psi

If there is anything anyone would like to know, elecrtical, mechanical, suspension.... let me know

Otherwise peace till I get these diagrams uploaded.

will take pictures soon of everything, take care and happy holidays
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Unread 12-06-2010, 07:43 PM   #86
cevans87
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deleted by me
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Unread 12-06-2010, 07:51 PM   #87
cevans87
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This is for JaySch - CJ FSM's don't show complete pinouts like the newer jeeps, only because there wasn't an ecm to account for, everything was pretty straight wired with the bulkhead connector being just a "safe" "gel-coated" pass through the firewall... the only wires that need to be tied in from the xj harness is one for power on to the ecm, one for the starter (which, you can actually bypass by taking the relay out of the xj pdc, and not messing with your current starter wiring) and then fuel pump, which since your doing it to a CJ can wire up however you want, and also leave that relay out of the xj pdc.... so as long as you have power going to the ecm... and you don't mess with your current wiring harness.... everything will work exactly like it should, your gauges, your lights, nothing will change... so i would suggest just hooking up the ecm power to a switch inside the truck, and it would also act as a theft deterent... the only wire i can think of that would need to be messed with from the original wiring... is the tach... make sure you use the oil presure sending unit off the 4.2L if you put in a 4.0L so the oil presure will read good.
cj-component-grid-wiring.gif   cj-wiring-diagram-1979.jpg  
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Unread 12-06-2010, 07:53 PM   #88
cevans87
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if you can't read the second image very well... save it to your computer, open it and hold the Ctrl button and press the + sign on the keyboard and it will make the image larger without distorting it
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Unread 12-06-2010, 09:08 PM   #89
JaySch
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Hey, thanks Corey! I've spent a lot of time this past weekend looking for the diagrams and what you found is about what I found as well. CJoffroad.com had the complete swap on their forum, but they've been offline for some time. It is a shame to loose so much information.

Since I'm moving ahead with this, I'll try to document it as well and post it here in Jeepforum.com. Your idea of a switched ECM is a great idea to help prevent theft. I'm wondering if repeated switching of the computer could either damage it or cause a loss of programing? Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thanks for your commitment to help others, and more importantly, thank you and your family for your service and sacrifice to our country. A debt to you that can never be repaid. Thank you!
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Unread 12-09-2010, 06:58 PM   #90
cevans87
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So far we've been over fuel injection, strokers, rear main seals, oil pump replacement and a few other things here and there. Give me some ideas and what you would like to know more about, I will be replacing my windshield gasket soon, will do a write up on that. Now that the motor is done, I will be starting on armor, such a fenders, front bumper, sliders, and a few other things... then I will head to full ton axles, 4.56 gears with lockers, and disc brakes...

Speaking of disc brakes, SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Corporation) makes a kit for disc brake conversion for Jeeps. I came across a cherokee in a junkyard about 5 months ago that had an SSBC kit on it, needless to say there on my wrangler now. The kit is pricey but there are ways around it... some grand cherokee's came with disc brakes and the ford crown victoria brakes will work to. The Install for me was pretty straight forward, had to take the axle shafts out, then remove the backing plate for the drums, install the new backing plate for the disc brakes, bolt on the bracket for the caliper and rotor, brake lines hooked right up, put the tires on, bleed them, and now I love them... more stopping power, no more brake shoes, or all the brake parts to deal with when changing brakes, and it gave me another excuse to put on the ARB diff covers I found at the Junkyard too. Another good thing about the SSBC kit, it will fit Dana 35, Chrysler 8.25, and Dana 44 without any modifications.

I also had a Vanco Brake Setup for the front, but sold it. Vanco replaces the entire knuckle assembly for the front, gives you a new double piston caliber for the front, and 16in drilled, vented, and very big rotors, they worked great, just didn't need them on the lightweight wrangler, so I sold the kit for $500... they were extremely happy.
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