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Unread 10-25-2010, 02:33 PM   #61
remmons
Some assembly required.
2002 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vernal, Utah
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...some cherokee's came with a factory security system installed, look at the cherokee you pull the harness out of... more than likely power windows and power door locks mean a security system... you can also lookinside the connector for the ecm... if there is a braided pair, purple and white... cut them and twist them together on both ends... so you will twist both wires together on both sides of your cut...

I did not know this. I have them clipped and taped up to prevent any shorts. I will have to give this a try. This is possibly the reason that my Jeep isn't starting...
Otherwise, here are the codes that my ECM gave me;

Code 12...Battery or computer disconnected within the last 50 key strokes.
I had disconnected the battery nightly due to the S1 solenoid energizing during battery cable connection.

Code 35...Cooling fan relay shorted or open circuit.
I don't have an electric fan installed, I also pulled the relay due to same reason.

Code 33...A/C clutch relay circuit open or shorted.
I have learned that this will also show up for non-A/C units.

Code 11...No igntion signal during cranking.
I found this interesting due to that I do get spark. Apparently, there is more to it than just this.

Code 55...End of codes.


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Unread 10-25-2010, 03:35 PM   #62
cevans87
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the code 11 is why your not starting, call me and i will run you through some tests and then will posts the results of that test on here for other readers to see


(434)582-0148 Corey
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Unread 10-25-2010, 03:55 PM   #63
remmons
Some assembly required.
2002 KJ Liberty 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
the code 11 is why your not starting, call me and i will run you through some tests and then will posts the results of that test on here for other readers to see


(434)582-0148 Corey
I will do this. I have a Toyota Tercel to pick up for my teen daughter right after work (4:30 P.M.) Thank you.
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2002 Liberty Sport 3.7. 2.5" lift.

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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/i...t-case-989208/
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Unread 10-25-2010, 06:56 PM   #64
cevans87
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ok so i haven't gotten a phone call guess your busy with the car... i understand

i will give you a few things to try, skimming over your thread i noticed a few things... and i'm going to ask questions because I was skimming and might not have saw what i was looking for...

Did you change flywheels? you will need the flywheel from a 91-95 if using obd1 computer and wiring

Do you have the cps correctly connected? make sure it is tight, or hardwired in correctly i need to know what you have done to this sensor... and was it pushed down tight against the flywheel when put on... you have a window of about 10 thousands that you can be away from the flywheel, after that it will not pick up a signal...

Is the distributor clocked correctly? you clock it by putting the motor tdc on the compression stroke, pull the distributor off, looking down in the hole, and putting the oil slot at just past 11 o'clock, then you line the distributor up with the rotor pointing at the 4 o'clock position, and drop it in, the rotor should turn to the 5 o'clock position

Have you changed out the crankshaft position sensor, and the camshaft position sensor? The crankshaft position sensor is on the flywheel, the camshaft sensor is in the distributor and requires you to know the set pin out and pul the distributor apart, it's very easy and will on reassemble one way

Don't question the flywheel, it will only go on one way as well.... I PROMISE

Pin 30 on the ECM is the Neutral Safety... Cut this wire, and ground it... even though your running an automatic tranny, it may be faulty, by cutting and ground this wire, it will tell you if that's your problem, and then you can hook it back up correctly, take the nss off the tranny clean it, reinstall it and you should be good to go

Pin 26 an Pin 46 are your braided pair for the Security system, cut them and braid both sides of the cut together to fool the ecm, if you have these wires, and you are not starting... this is why 8 times out of 10

Make sure you have 8 volts at pin 7, this is the power supply to the Crankshaft position sensor

Put a test light on the green/orange stripe wire at the ignition coil... turn the key on and see if your light turns on for about a second or two, then try to crank... if it does not continue to light up... you are not getting fire...

With code 11, you should not be getting spark... the ignition coil will light up for a "system test" when you turn the key on then cut off after a second or two, and the ecm takes over operation of the vehicle, once it does not recieve a signal back from you crank or camshaft position sensors... it shuts down operation completely... do not let your test light going off when you turn the key on signal to you that you have spark... with code 11 you will not have spark...

your other codes are normal... and your check engine light will continue to stay on unless you change out your componets ie. alternator, power steering pump, and all bracketry...

with it being a home brew between an 88 xj and a 88yj... make sure your not using any of the 88xj or yj sensors... these are renix, and operate differently and poorly...

overall your doing a great job, and she looks a far cry better from what she did on day one...

another thing to check is all ground connections... there are 2 near the ecm that come out of the main wiring harness, and three on the wiring harness on the passenger side of the motor near the back...

and please check your neautral safety switch and your crank and cam sensors... code 11 is a did give away one of the two is not working, not hooked up correctly, or just bad... code 11 only monitors those 2 sensors...
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Unread 11-02-2010, 10:53 AM   #65
Zorm
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do you have a wireing write up for the engine harness. What you used, kept with the PDU and ECM.?
Looking to start this when I get back home in about two weeks.
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Unread 11-02-2010, 11:15 AM   #66
remmons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorm View Post
do you have a wireing write up for the engine harness. What you used, kept with the PDU and ECM.?
Looking to start this when I get back home in about two weeks.
I can when I find the time to put everything together. In the mean time, I have something simpler than my mess of stuff. I used this link http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4.../#post10284112 to verify that all of my wiring was in the correct locations. If it doesn't help, let me know and I will gather up all my resources and send it to you. Good luck!
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I am by no means a professional. I know just enough to get myself into trouble.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/i...t-case-989208/

Last edited by remmons; 11-02-2010 at 11:17 AM.. Reason: Added info.
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Unread 11-02-2010, 12:29 PM   #67
cevans87
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Zorm... i would just leave the 4.0 harness alone... don't take anything out... but it's up to you... it being an sj and all it's not like you don't have the room.

let me know what you need and i will get it to you
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Unread 11-02-2010, 12:37 PM   #68
Zorm
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cevans87 I was thinking of doing that, I guess I'm just "chomping at the bit" to get this started. It would be nice to have my 83 running smoothly
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Unread 11-02-2010, 05:04 PM   #69
cevans87
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so here is the final pictures of the fuel injection swap then were going to roll into rear main seal and oil pump.. these are pictures of the motor back in engine bay, the NSS switch that needs to be grounded, my modification to the power steering pump, and the fuel tank out getting ready to get inpregnated by a new fuel pump.
p1060100.jpg   p1060103.jpg   p1060104.jpg   p1060115.jpg   p1060122.jpg  

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Unread 11-02-2010, 05:28 PM   #70
cevans87
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Unfortunately, a leaky rear main seal is pretty common on the 4.0L motor found in most Jeeps. Getting it fixed at the dealership usually runs in the neighborhood of $500, however, if you’ve got a free afternoon, you can fix it yourself for under $50. But be prepared, as my uncle so aptly put it, this is definitely “one of the oiliest jobs possible on a Jeep.” New rear main seals are usually in stock at most auto parts stores, and seem to range from $13 to $15. At that price, you might go ahead and pick up two of them, just in case you mess up one seal during the install like we did… DOH! It might save you from having to make a trip back to the auto parts store, heh-heh…



To start with, depending on how much lift you’ve got, you’ll want to jack up the vehicle by the frame, pull the wheels, and let the front axle hang down to give you clearance to get the oil pan out. Once that’s done, remove the starter and the bazillion bolts holding the oil pan to the bottom of the motor. Oh yeah, don’t forget to drain your oil first!



Now comes the fun part of seperating the pan from the rest of the motor. The XJ we were working on had well over 100,000 miles on it, and had never had the oil pan removed before, so it was a bit stubborn. We had 3 flathead screw drivers and a Stanley “wonder bar” pry bar going around splitting the seal all around the oil pan. It finally popped off after about a half hour of work. To get it out, lower the back half and pull it out under the transmission.



The oil pan was full of black sludge, so it was probably good we pulled it anyway. In addition, the pick-up for the oil filter was nearly clogged with sludge and crystalized gunk. The old oil pan gasket was rock hard, I’d definitely recommend getting a good gasket scraper, or a chisel! Be sure to remove the front and rear neoprene oil seals, they’re pretty easy to pull out and should come off in one piece. Don’t forge to clean the old gasket material off of the bottom of the block as well. We probably spent more time scraping off old gasket than doing anything else…

The rear main seal is located in the back-most bearing cap. It’ll probably take a large breaker bar or impact wrench to get the bolts loose. The bottom half of the seal is in the bearing cap, and if it’s old like the one we were replacing, it may take some work to get all the old seal out. Clean the bearing cap thoroughly to make sure all the old seal is out..



The upper half of the seal is actually inside the block itself. It’s somewhat hard to see too, especially when everything’s covered in oil — the yellow arrows point to the holes where the upper half of the seal goes in. In order to get this upper half out, you’ll need to use a punch or sharp tool (we ended up using a small torx driver and a hammer) to push the seal out from one side. Be very careful not to score the crankshaft. The seal has a metal support wire inside it, this is what you’ll be pushing on with the punch to get the seal out.



Once you get part of the seal coming out the other side, you can grab it with some needle-nose pliers to pull it out the rest of the way. Again, watch that crankshaft…



With the upper half out, carefully insert the new seal half into one of the holes in the block and push it all the way in. An article on the International Full-size Jeep Association website recommended to “coat the block contacting surface at the upper seal with soap, and the lip of the seal with engine oil,” (refer to diagram above). It may help to put a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine to manually turn the crankshaft. note: the lip of the seal must face to the front of the engine.

Once the upper half is in, coat both sides of the lower seal half’s end tabs with gasket maker, make sure not to get any sealant on the lip of the seal. Next coat the outer surface of the lower seal with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil, as you did with the upper half. Press the seal into the bearing cap to seat it firmly. Apply gasket maker to both angled edges of the bearing cap, then replace the bearing cap and torque the bolts to the specified torque.



The oil pan is actually pretty clean in these photos, compared to what it looked like when we first pulled it out anyway. Once we got a new gasket scraper, we were able to get the rest of the old material off before putting in the new one-piece oil pan gasket. I’d highly recommend getting the one-piece oil pan gasket, it makes like much easier, and only runs about $20 through 4WD Hardware. The part number is #53007568.

Now put the oil pan back into place, put all the bolts back in, put the drain plug back in, and fill the engine with oil, and you’re done!

rearmain09.jpg   rearmain12.jpg   rearmain14.jpg   rearmain13.jpg   rearmain08.jpg  

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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

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Unread 11-02-2010, 05:29 PM   #71
cevans87
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oil pan gasket
rearmain16.jpg  
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Unread 11-02-2010, 05:35 PM   #72
cevans87
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oil pump
oil-pan.jpg  
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Unread 11-17-2010, 11:47 PM   #73
lclark2074
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how much difrent is the bolt pattern 4.2 alt and the 4.0 alt
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Unread 11-18-2010, 06:45 AM   #74
TonkaYJ
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WOW!! Information overload!! This is without a doubt the best write up on this topic that I've seen so far. I've been back and forth on doing either this swap or doing the 4.3 swap. Currently running 4.2 with Howell TBI kit. Good kit but there's more to be had with either of the before mentioned swaps. Keep up the good work and great info.
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Unread 11-18-2010, 07:10 AM   #75
remmons
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Hey cevans87. Good work on your project! Thanks to you, there will be people here in the present and in the future who will know what to do when they need to figure out something.

BTW. I may need my reading glasses to see, but your font size is killing me!
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2002 Liberty Sport 3.7. 2.5" lift.

I am by no means a professional. I know just enough to get myself into trouble.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/i...t-case-989208/
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