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Unread 10-20-2010, 08:13 PM   #46
cevans87
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OK, now that that is out of my system, short update tonight because I have a paper to write for college.

Most of the wiring is done, the new fuel pump is in, the MSD box and ECM are mounted, the new theromstat is on

Still have to weld the exhaust, finish the wiring, put in new heater hose, and run the 12 inches of fuel line i need...

i know people are waiting for pictures and I apoligize for not being able to load them tonight, but this paper is due tonight, and I haven't even started...

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Unread 10-20-2010, 08:22 PM   #47
cevans87
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Unread 10-20-2010, 09:27 PM   #48
Douglas S.
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....
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Unread 10-20-2010, 09:58 PM   #49
cevans87
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well i really don't want to have this type of discussion on my thread so after submitting this message i will delete my post and hope you follow suit and to you sir my apology, but this is not the first time I've done this swap, and I'm been all over the eastern seaboard and the prices on parts are usually the same depending on where you go...

as far as the carb in cali goes, you can have a vehicle with modifcations tested to pass, so please don't tell people it won't work, let them do the research that they need to to find out if they want to continue with the swap.
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Unread 10-20-2010, 10:00 PM   #50
cevans87
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Unread 10-20-2010, 10:25 PM   #51
LoggingRoads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
bump
I have some stuff I have to go to the DMV for in the very near future, so I think I'll try to gain audience with a head smog nazi referee and ask him/her/they/.it if such a modification would be acceptable..

I will report the response...

But that being said, just because, the grande queso smog nazi says it's okay before I start the project, doesn't guarantee that I will get the same smog nazi extrordinaire when I go back to have it all approved, or that I will be interrogated by the same herr smog dude and he/she/it/they will admit that they originally approved such modification..

I guess it all depends on the mood of He/She/It/They on the particular day I grovel before He/She/It/They...

Will I get the or from the grande poohpaah nazi smog emporer...

but seriously.. this 'tag' BS seems to be more important than actual 'results'.... ask me why I despise the DMV (or government in general) again?

I checked some prices today for parts at local pick n pulls, and his swap should be pretty cheap (comparatively)... but will it be allowed.. that is the question.. If not, I guess I'll have to come up with 1300 smackers....
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Unread 10-20-2010, 10:31 PM   #52
cevans87
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well look at like this you have nothing to loose by doing the swap, you can't register the jeep as it is... so if you do it, and they don't pass you, sell it to someone in a neighbooring state, and go get you a new jeep
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Unread 10-20-2010, 10:32 PM   #53
cevans87
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but i do feel your pain, and wish you the best of luck , keep us informed of what happens
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Unread 10-21-2010, 07:19 PM   #54
cevans87
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Well, got the exhaust made tonight, got the fuel lines ran, finished up most of the wiring, ran new heater hose...

still have to tighten the belt, clean up, and get the wiring done on the cps since i'm hardwiring it...
i will draw a diagram for the cps when i get done tommrow and post pictures too...

motor does turn over, fuel pump pumps, the relays are working, and the msd box is hooked up...

after everything just need to drill a hole for the check engine light and put the floor board back in order, clean up the tools and drive my new beast home...
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Unread 10-24-2010, 02:03 PM   #55
cevans87
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she's alive...

runs good, runs strong... and a lot better then the carb setup...
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Unread 10-24-2010, 03:39 PM   #56
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how bout those pictures... just seems like a lot of words and nothing to show of it.
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Unread 10-24-2010, 08:13 PM   #57
cevans87
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ok, sorry about the short post earlier, had a lot of house worrk to get done, and some college work to get done too...

Ok so the wiring on the CPS was a bit tricky. I would suggest to anyone doing this don't try to hardwire the cps into the system... on that note, you have 3 wires for the cps... a ground, an 8volt supply and a signal wire... if you wire this up incorrectly... you will fry the sensor...

The VSS, you don't need to have this to drive the vehicle but be known that it might shut off on you during stopping, because the fuel system is heavy loaded, and the ecm has nothing telling it to drop by to idle... therefore the motor choke's itself out...

Also the neautral safety switch need's to be "fooled" or you will never get spark... you can ground this wire near the ecm which in my diagrams from the first page, or you can simply insert a female butt connector in the black connector on the right side of the motor towards the read of the valve cover... pins "b" and "c" need to be grounded... what this does it tell the computer "i'm in park, the vehilce is safe to start"

some cherokee's came with a factory security system installed, look at the cherokee you pull the harness out of... more than likely power windows and power door locks mean a security system... you can also lookinside the connector for the ecm... if there is a braided pair, purple and white... cut them and twist them together on both ends... so you will twist both wires together on both sides of your cut...

when installing the dizzy... look inside the hole, and clock the oil slot to just past 11 o'clock... put the dizzy in with the rotor in the 4 o'clock position, and drop it in, it should be flush and the rotor should have turned clockwise to the 5 o'clock position, always use a new gasket on the dizzy... this method is called indexing the distributor... if you have not indexed the dizzy it will not start or run right if it does... you cannot "adjust the timing" on the 4.0 dizzy, as it is notched and locked into place by the hold down clamp and bolt... the ecm controls advancing and retarding the timing based on sensor feedback and engine conditions

if you do this swap on the 4.2L... the check engine light will stay on for a couple of different codes...

code 12 - battery has been disconnected in the last 1200miles...

code 33 - a/c relay (doesn't mean anything)

code 41 - alternator field shorted (you don't have the alternator hooked up, so the ecm thinks something is wrong)

code 55 - end of code sequence (ecm is done checking everything)

Also you will need a 7.5amp diode in the field control circuit wire (brown) of the stock 4.2L alternator... if you don't do this the truck will not shut off when you turn the key off... the diode prevents the alternator from backfeeding the electrical system, in turn keeping your truck on...

The power steering pump will need to be modified to fit the new intake do this but cutting the uppermost portion of the bracket off, so that it will pass but the outter hole and you can mount it to the back hole to keep the belt lined up correctly

as far as the ccv (closed crankcase ventilation) on the valve cover, you can put a $5 breather from the parts store in the front and run the back straight to a port on the intake...

and the airfilter is a custom mod, you can do this anyway that makes you happy, you can get the stock airbox assembly out of wrangler, or get a cold air intake offline, or just go get a short cone filter from the parts store...

the throttle cable out of an xj or zj will work, but needs to be shortened to work... you can do this by lining up the cable, marking it where the new crimp needs to be, cutting and recrimping, or you can go on rockauto.com and order a stock cable from a 91-95 yj with a 2.5 or 4.0L



i will post pictures as soon as the camera arives, it is still in my wifes car, and she is not home from work yet...


as far as what i still have to do... i have an oil leak from somewhere... i think the valve cover, needs to be fixed, i need to install the vss, put my fuel filter in, and dress everything up... will also be putting on my hesco throttle body spacer and my unichip... next upgrades and modifications will be a new motor mount, and rear main seal and oil pump replacement, will also be posting pictures and instructions on those and how to install arb ipf headlights... after that i will be going into detail on SSBC rear disc brakes, and then moving to body armor... after the armor is complete, i will be doing full ton axles, gears and lockers...

so stay tuned
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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-25-2010, 06:08 AM   #58
LoggingRoads
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congratulations!

Hoping to get a chance to go to DMV this week.. Been trying to get an appoinment several times over the last week through the automated phone system, but after 10 minutes of menus, I'm always told the computer isn't working try back later.. Been like that for every issue I've tried to resolve for the last couple years.. Love the way the govt makes things so 'efficient'.. Really makes me feel they value my time... Talking to a real person via phone is impossible now that commiefornia has 'streamlined' the DMV process....

So I'll make the 50 mile drive and walk in (code for wait a few hours sitting in fiberglass chair), and hope they actually talk to me and not just give me an appointment to comer back later...

Of course by then, they'll probably fine me for not getting things done on time... sigh...

anyways, I'll try and gain audience with the grand poohpah smog nazi at that time and grovel at his feet for permission to make my vehicle more fuel economical and clean running...

Wouldn't it have been easier to replace the rear seal and oil pump while you already had the engine out of the jeep?
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Unread 10-25-2010, 07:55 AM   #59
lclark2074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
ok, sorry about the short post earlier, had a lot of house worrk to get done, and some college work to get done too...

Ok so the wiring on the CPS was a bit tricky. I would suggest to anyone doing this don't try to hardwire the cps into the system... on that note, you have 3 wires for the cps... a ground, an 8volt supply and a signal wire... if you wire this up incorrectly... you will fry the sensor...

The VSS, you don't need to have this to drive the vehicle but be known that it might shut off on you during stopping, because the fuel system is heavy loaded, and the ecm has nothing telling it to drop by to idle... therefore the motor choke's itself out...

Also the neautral safety switch need's to be "fooled" or you will never get spark... you can ground this wire near the ecm which in my diagrams from the first page, or you can simply insert a female butt connector in the black connector on the right side of the motor towards the read of the valve cover... pins "b" and "c" need to be grounded... what this does it tell the computer "i'm in park, the vehilce is safe to start"

some cherokee's came with a factory security system installed, look at the cherokee you pull the harness out of... more than likely power windows and power door locks mean a security system... you can also lookinside the connector for the ecm... if there is a braided pair, purple and white... cut them and twist them together on both ends... so you will twist both wires together on both sides of your cut...

when installing the dizzy... look inside the hole, and clock the oil slot to just past 11 o'clock... put the dizzy in with the rotor in the 4 o'clock position, and drop it in, it should be flush and the rotor should have turned clockwise to the 5 o'clock position, always use a new gasket on the dizzy... this method is called indexing the distributor... if you have not indexed the dizzy it will not start or run right if it does... you cannot "adjust the timing" on the 4.0 dizzy, as it is notched and locked into place by the hold down clamp and bolt... the ecm controls advancing and retarding the timing based on sensor feedback and engine conditions

if you do this swap on the 4.2L... the check engine light will stay on for a couple of different codes...

code 12 - battery has been disconnected in the last 1200miles...

code 33 - a/c relay (doesn't mean anything)

code 41 - alternator field shorted (you don't have the alternator hooked up, so the ecm thinks something is wrong)

code 55 - end of code sequence (ecm is done checking everything)

Also you will need a 7.5amp diode in the field control circuit wire (brown) of the stock 4.2L alternator... if you don't do this the truck will not shut off when you turn the key off... the diode prevents the alternator from backfeeding the electrical system, in turn keeping your truck on...

The power steering pump will need to be modified to fit the new intake do this but cutting the uppermost portion of the bracket off, so that it will pass but the outter hole and you can mount it to the back hole to keep the belt lined up correctly

as far as the ccv (closed crankcase ventilation) on the valve cover, you can put a $5 breather from the parts store in the front and run the back straight to a port on the intake...

and the airfilter is a custom mod, you can do this anyway that makes you happy, you can get the stock airbox assembly out of wrangler, or get a cold air intake offline, or just go get a short cone filter from the parts store...

the throttle cable out of an xj or zj will work, but needs to be shortened to work... you can do this by lining up the cable, marking it where the new crimp needs to be, cutting and recrimping, or you can go on rockauto.com and order a stock cable from a 91-95 yj with a 2.5 or 4.0L



i will post pictures as soon as the camera arives, it is still in my wifes car, and she is not home from work yet...


as far as what i still have to do... i have an oil leak from somewhere... i think the valve cover, needs to be fixed, i need to install the vss, put my fuel filter in, and dress everything up... will also be putting on my hesco throttle body spacer and my unichip... next upgrades and modifications will be a new motor mount, and rear main seal and oil pump replacement, will also be posting pictures and instructions on those and how to install arb ipf headlights... after that i will be going into detail on SSBC rear disc brakes, and then moving to body armor... after the armor is complete, i will be doing full ton axles, gears and lockers...

so stay tuned
will all 5 codes trip the check engine light/
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Unread 10-25-2010, 12:10 PM   #60
cevans87
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no, not all the codes will trip the check engine light, only the alternator code will in my case... and the reason behind this is because the computer will store codes, but only throw a light when a major system failure has occured, in my case the ecm doesn't see any alternator and "thinks" something is really wrong, and just so happens when i do my check engine light test it will show me all the codes the ecm has stored in the last 3000 miles... the code test is key on, off, on, off, on... within 5 seconds... and watch the check engine light... it will start to blink...

blink pause blink blink = code 12, battery disconnect

blink pause blink = code 11, no reference ignition signal

blink blink blink pause blink blink blink = code 33, a/c relay (normal)

and you get the picture of how to read codes now

and no it is easier to do the rear main seal while the motor is in the vehicle... the rear main is a 2 piece seal and only takes about 20 minutes to do, start to finish, plus droping and installing the new oil pump is about 5-10 minutes...

MAKE SURE WHEN DOING THE REAR MAIN SEAL... YOU USE ANEROBIC SEALANT ON THE BEARING MAIN CAP AND NOT RTV... RTV IS NOT OIL RESISTANT... ANEROBIC SEALANT IS, AND THE REAR MAIN SEAL IS SITTING IN THE OIL PAN...

with the motor out, and on the ground... i have no way to drop the oil pan... and i don't use engine stands... (don't trust them
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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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