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Unread 10-13-2010, 05:34 PM   #1
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
4.2L Fuel Injection and Build

Bought a 1990 YJ about 2 months ago...

Current Setup...
4.2L
Weber 38/38DGES
Dana 30 Front
Dana 35 Rear w/ SSBC Disc Brake Conversion
IPF Headlight Conversion
Autometer Gauges
Tuffy Center Console
33in Radials
Wilderness Rack Rear Swingout
Borla Header
Tan Bestop Softtop

This weekend will be doing a 4.0L Fuel Injection Swap. Will be placing a 4.0L head, intake, and wiring harness on a 4.2L. The reason for doing this is to keep the low end torque of the 4.2 and combine it with the high end output of the 4.0L, also will increase gas mileage about a 100+ a tank and add 65HP, you will gain 40HP by just swaping out the heads and keeping your carb setup, and an extra 25HP to 30HP by going to fuel injection. The reason for a 40HP jump in heads alone is due to the angle and cut of the intake and exhaust ports, and air flow inside the head, will give the air fuel mixture smoother lines to pass through and better atomize the air fuel mixture. This swap is pretty straight forward and I will try to do my best to cover everything, unlike articles I have read in the past. This will be my 5th swap, including a 2.5L to 4.0L in a Rio Grande. The wiring is straight forward, but there are some things to know. An OBD 1 (91-95) ECM is the easiest to install, and will only require 5 wires to run your vehicle. 2.5 and 4.0 ECMs differ, so if you are doing a swap from a 2.5 you will need to pick up a 4.0 ECM, I know they look the same but your 4.0 has 2 more cylinders to account for. Also if you install swap a 4.0 for a 2.5, you will need to cut grind and re-weld your motor mounts on the frame 4 inches towards the front. You will also have to add 4 wires for the 2 new injectors, 2 grounds and 2 hots. ECM always grounds, every wire on the ECM with the exception of 3 get grounded at the ECM, that's how the system works. The PDC (Power Distribution Center) gives power to everything in the system. With the 4.2 Fuel Injection, you will need to cap off the water jackets closest to the intake manifold, I will include pictures when I do this. I know I haven't covered everything yet, but we will get there. If I have already completed this swap just keep reading, I will also include bulkhead pinouts and wiring diagrams from the FSM (Factory Shop Manual) for YJs. As far as the fuel pump issue goes, you will need to purchase a fuel pump for a 1991 and later YJ, and if you already have a 2.5, you do not need to swap the pumps out, they are the same output. You just drop the tank and removing the hanger and sending unit, and Advance Auto sells the whole assembly for $131, it just drops right in, all you have to do is connect one wire, and I will cover that later when we reach that point. Any questions, please ask...

Several Key Notes Before I Begin this swap, for people interested the best of each in my opinion is in bold lettering

3 Types of Computer Systems
Renix - Very Bad System, Came on 87-90 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L
OBD1- Best For Swaps, Came on 91-95 Cherokee's, Wranglers, Commanches, and Grand Cherokee's
OBD2- Good System, Harder for swaps, Came on 96-01 Cherokee, 97-05 Wrangler, and Grand Cherokee's

The following is a list of the injectors used on the 4.0L since 1987 along with their rated static flow:

Model Year, ...Part #, ......Colour, .....Fuel Pressure, ...Static Flow,
'87-'90, ........53003956, ...Black, ........39psi, .................18.6lb/hr
'91-'93, ........33007127, ...Brown, .......39psi, .................21.0lb/hr
'94-'95, ........53030343, ...Tan, ...........39psi, .................21.0lb/hr
'96-'99, ........53030778, ...Grey, .........49psi, .................23.2lb/hr
'00-'01, ........04854181, ...Blue tip, .....49psi, .................22.5lb/hr

The injector flow rate varies as the square root of the pressure drop across the injector. The stock '91-'95 4.0 injectors are rated at 22lb/hr @ 43psi fuel pressure, so at 39psi they flow ( sq. rt.(39/43) x 22.0 = 21.0 ).
For stock/modified 4.0 engines or stroker build-ups the following injectors can be installed. The flow rates are:

Ford Motorsport 19.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-C302)
Ford Motorsport 24.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-A302)
Ford Motorsport 30.0lb/hr @ 39psi (Part no. FMS-M9593-B302)
Chevy LT1 24.0lb/hr @ 43.5psi (Part no. 17124248)
Chevy LT4 28.0lb/hr @ 43.5psi (Part no. 17124251)
'98 Chevy LS1 25.2lb/hr @ 58.0psi (Part no. 12533952)
'99-'00 Chevy LS1 26.2lb/hr @ 58.0psi (Part no. 12456154)
'01-'02 Chevy LS1/LS6 28.6lb/hr @ 58.0psi (Part no. 12482704)
Accel 19.2lb/hr @ 44.1psi (ACC-150119)
Accel 21.1lb/hr @ 44.1psi (ACC-150121)
Accel 24.4lb/hr @ 44.1psi (ACC-150124)
Accel 25.6lb/hr @ 44.1psi (ACC-150126)
Accel 29.4lb/hr @ 44.1psi (ACC-150130)

The '95 Jeep 5.2 ZJ/Dodge 5.9 injectors (Part no. 53030262) are rated to flow 24.6lb/hr at 39psi.

The selection of injector size will depend on the estimated horsepower output, brake specific fuel consumption BSFC (assume 0.5), no. of cylinders, and the injector duty cycle (assume 80% or 0.8). The formula is:

Injector size (lb/hr) = (horsepower x 0.5)/(no.of cylinders x 0.8)

Cylinder head

The stock cylinder head is cast iron and weighs 60lb. The valve head diameter is 1.91" intake/1.50" exhaust. Casting numbers are as follows:

Year............Casting No
1987-90......2686
1991-95......7120
1996-99......0630
2000-01......0331

Cylinder head flow figures (cfm) at 28inH2O pressure drop are:

Non-HO head #2686 (Courtesy of Greg Friedman)

Valve lift (in)..... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5 ... 0.6
Intake flow.... 122.0 168.0 186.0 189.0 192.0
Exhaust flow....88.0 114.0 130.0 134.0 138.0

Ported non-HO head #2686

Valve lift (in)..... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5 ... 0.6
Intake flow.... 124.0 183.0 197.0 207.0 216.0
Exhaust flow....87.0 113.0 138.0 153.0 159.0

HO head #7120 & #0630 (Courtesy of John Brown)

Valve lift (in)... 0.1 ... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5 ... 0.6
Intake flow.... 66.0 128.0 179.0 206.0 209.0 209.0
Exhaust flow. 55.0 100.0 120.0 136.0 141.0 141.2

HO head #0331




Valve lift (in)..... 0.1 ... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5 ... 0.6
Intake flow..... 59.4 122.6 171.1 201.1 214.3 218.4
Exhaust flow...47.1 93.4 123.3 140.9 147.0 149.7

Ported big valve 2.02/1.60 HO head

Valve lift (in)... 0.1 ... 0.2 ... 0.3 ... 0.4 ... 0.5
Intake flow.... 73.9 142.4 197.8 229.8 247.0
Exhaust flow. 65.3 114.0 135.9 146.3 157.1

The early '87-'90 non-HO heads have low intake ports that flow rather poorly. The later HO heads have higher intake ports that flow more air by allowing a straighter shot into the cylinders. The '91-'95 HO heads with casting no.7120 have the highest intake and exhaust port airflows, especially at lower valve lifts where it is most important, and are the best for performance. The '96-'99 0630 heads are almost identical except that they don't have a port for the coolant temp. gauge sending unit. The '00 and later HO heads with casting no.0331 have smaller exhaust ports to produce a faster warm-up of the catalytic converter and improve emissions, but performance also suffers because the ports don't flow as well as those of the 7120 and 0630 castings.
The exhaust ports flow relatively poorly compared to the intake ports on all the 4.0 heads so this engine would perform better with a dual pattern cam that has more exhaust valve opening duration and lift than the intake.
The intake ports of the HO head are rectangular and measure 1.625" x 1.375", while the exhaust ports are elliptical and measure only 1.375" x 1.250". The port cross-sectional areas are 2.234 and 1.350 sq. inches respectively. For good street performance, it is recommended that the port c/s area should be about 85% of the valve head area. Therefore it should be 2.435 sq. in. for the intake ports and 1.502 sq. in. for the exhaust ports. The stock port c/s areas therefore need to be enlarged by 9.0% for the intake and 11.3% for the exhaust. The ports should be matched to the intake and exhaust manifold runners to smoothen airflow and prevent power-robbing turbulence.
For those who would like to undertake a DIY head porting job, the Standard Abrasives DIY Head Porting Guide is a must read.

Head gaskets

The compressed thicknesses of the following gaskets for the 4.0 engine are:

Stock 4.0 (all years) 53020754AB----0.051"
Mopar Performance P4529242 / Victor Reinz Dana 5713----0.043"
Corteco 20667CS '87-'95, Corteco 20871 '96-'06 ----0.051"
Fel-Pro 9076PT----0.043"
Fel-Pro 9076PT1----0.051"
Fel-Pro 530SD----0.051"

Pistons

The pin heights and dish volumes of pistons available for the 4.0 engine are:

Stock 4.0 cast aluminium '87-'93 #83500251, '94-'95 #4773157, '96-'06 #4798329----1.601" 13.1cc
Keith-Black Silvolite (UEM) cast aluminium 2229/2229c----1.581" 11.5cc
Keith-Black Silvolite (UEM) hypereutectic 3241hc/3242hc----1.592" 13.3cc
Sealed Power (Sterling) cast aluminium 677P/677CP----1.585" 17.5cc
Sealed Power (Sterling) hypereutectic H802CP/H825CP----1.592" 15.1cc
Keith-Black Silvolite (UEM) forged stroker IC944----1.353" 21.0cc NEW
Keith-Black Silvolite (UEM) forged stroker IC945----1.353" 10.8cc NEW

Intake manifold

The '91-'99 intake manifold is aluminium and has equal length 24cm (9.5") long runners. The runners are rectangular with internal dimensions of 1.625" x 1.375" and a cross sectional area of 2.234 sq. in. (14.4 sq. cm). The '00-'06 intake manifold has smaller diameter curved runners with internal dimensions of 1.53" x 1.26" and a cross sectional area of 1.928 sq. in. (12.4 sq. cm), and is clearly designed to produce more torque at lower rpm. The distance from the intake valve to the port opening is 3.5" (9cm), making the total distance 13" (33cm) from the manifold plenum wall to the intake valve.
For a given intake manifold design, the cross-sectional area of the runner and the runner length affect the location of an engine's torque peak in the RPM band. According to the Helmholtz tuning model and the formula shown here, the intake runner area and length are tuned to resonate and produce an inertial supercharging effect at 5000rpm for the '91-'99 engine and 4650rpm for the '00-'06 engine. That's very close to peak horsepower rpm for all High Output 4.0L engines.

Exhaust manifold

The same design principles for the intake manifold also apply to the exhaust manifold. The cross-sectional area of the primary header pipe affects the location of an engine's torque peak in the RPM band. The pipe length generally will not change the peak torque or the RPM at which it occurs. A length change has the effect of improving the torque on only one side of the peak by "borrowing" it from the other side. A shorter pipe improves torque after the peak (reduces it at lower RPM), preventing the torque curve from falling off so quickly as speed increases. A longer pipe extends the torque curve backwards to improve the engine's flexibility, at the expense of after-peak torque.
The stock exhaust manifold and the Borla header have a primary pipe internal diameter of 1.375" and a cross sectional area of 1.49 sq. in. Using this formula:

Peak Torque RPM = [Primary Pipe Area (sq. in) X 88200] / Cylinder Volume (cu. in.)

the stock exhaust manifold and the Borla header are tuned to a peak torque of 3265rpm. That's right at the peak torque rpm of the 4.0 engine.

Block Casting Numbers

Year............Casting No. ...........................Part No.
1987...........53005535 (8933002665)....83503400
1988-90.....53005535 (8933002665)....83505110
1991...........53008405........................... ...4626155
1992...........53008405........................... ...4638959
1993...........53008405........................... ...4728988
1994-95......53008405.............................47788 82
1996-99......53020569.............................48830 25
2000-01......53010449AA.......................5013166AB

Crankshaft Casting Numbers

The stock Jeep 4.0 crankshaft is nodular iron, has 8 counterweights, and weighs 55lb.

Year............Casting No.........Part No.
1987-90......3003453..........83503409
1991............3003453..........83507107
1992............3003453...........4638952
1993-95......3003453...........4728882
1996............53020767.........4728882
1997-99......53020767.........4864726
2000-01......53010411.........4864726AB

Connecting Rod Casting Numbers

Stock Jeep 4.0 rods are cast iron, 6.125" long from center to center, and weigh 660g. The casting no. is 53020126 for all years.

Pushrods

Stock pushrods are oil-through type with pressed-in balls at each end. They are 5/16" in diameter and 9.625" long

Pilot Bearings

The 5-speed manual transmission is the light-duty Peugeot BA10/5 in the '87-'89.5 4.0 XJ, the medium duty Aisin-Warner AX15 in the '89.5-'99 4.0 XJ, and the medium-duty New Venture Gear NVG3550 in the '00-'01 4.0 XJ. When carrying out engine swaps (either another 4.0 or a stroker), selection of the correct pilot bearing can be a headache. The details below will make choosing a pilot bearing simple:

'87-'89.5 BA10/5:

OEM pilot bearing 33004041 for '87-'91 4.0 engine
Advance Adapters pilot bushing 716120 for '92-'06 4.0 engine
*Upgrade transmission to AX15 or NVG3550 for stroker engine swap*

'89.5-'91 AX15:

OEM pilot bearing 33004041 for '87-'91 4.0 engine or stroker
Advance Adapters pilot bushing 716120 for '92-'06 4.0 engine

'92-'99 AX15 and NVG3550:

OEM pilot bearing 53009180AB for '87-'91 engine or stroker
OEM pilot bearing 53009180AB or 53009181 for '92-'06 4.0 engine.

Note
If you are swaping out your 4.2 to a 4.0 or converting the 4.2 you have to fuel injection, you will need to adapt 3 very key things... You cannot just simply put the new motor in and plug up the 4.0L Bulkhead connector and expect it to run.

CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) - If you have the AX-15 Transmission, there will be a cuttout in the transmission for the sensor, you will just have to find or buy one and put it in:::You will also have to replace the flywheel with a 91-95 in order to use the fuel injection. If you have the BA-10 5 Speed, the TF-999 Automatic or another type of transmission other than a Jeep, you will have to buy the Hesco Kit to relocate this sensor to the Harmonic Balancer. http://www.hesco.us/products/7902/40...1-04-hes9199ed

Vehicle Speed Sensor - This is located on the backside of your transfer case and has your speedometer attached. The one you need for fuel injection looks the exact same except has an additional electrical connection that tells the ECM how fast your going which controls fuel curve. Hesco makes this also, http://www.hesco.us/products/7902/40...sensor-hes7015 . You can also buy one for a 91 YJ at the parts store that will have both connections as well, however you will have to do some modifications for it to work. I suggest using the Hesco Part.

Neautral Safety Switch (NSS) - This tells the ECM that your in Park or Neautral and it's safe to start the vehicle. You can fool this by putting a female wire connector on pins B and C to connect them to each other, completing the circuit. The connector is large and black and found on the passenger side of the motors main wiring harness for the 4.0L.


Please DO not post things you think I should do or something that I have not covered because it will only confuse people that are interested in swaps. I promise to cover everything in due time... just stay tuned and crawl this thread, doesn't matter if your an experienced jeeper, or new trying to better your knowledge and your rig... you will learn something from this thread I promise.


THIS IS AN UPDATE::::


Fuel Injection Wiring seems to be the thing that I get call about the most, second would be why is my Jeep not starting. I hope to clear up a few things with this update.

The easiest way to do this swap is to leave your 4.2L Engine Harness alone... all of it. I suggest to lay the 4.0L Harness right on top of it. If you do this it makes life a lot easier.

If the harness is left alone, you will only need to provide power to the ECM, Fuel Pump and Ignition. Doing this, your jeep will run. Also put the Oil Pressure Sending Unit and the Water Temp Sending Unit from the 4.2L on the new motor. Doing this and running the electrical connections off of your 4.2L harness will ensure that you have accurate working gauges when your done.

Also, I strongly suggest putting in a Check Engine Light when doing your swap. If something does not work, it will tell you by doing a simple test. Everything about all of this is covered in this thread and easily found. These are just key notes after years of phone calls and frustrations from Jeepers in need of help.

I do not mind helping anyone, you may PM or Call me. However do remember that I am helping you fix your Jeep when I answer those PM's and phone calls. I take time away from my family, friends and work sometimes to help out. I do not ask for anything in return, other than a donation of your choice to my paypal account for my time.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, CALL ME IF YOU ARE WORKING ON A CUSTOMERS JEEP THAT YOU CANNOT FIX, UNLESS YOU PLAN ON PAYING ME UPFRONT FOR MY TIME. IT GRINDS MY GEARS WHEN I AM TAKING TIME AWAY FROM MY FAMILY TO HELP SOMEONE ONLY TO FIND OUT AT SOME POINT THAT IT'S A CUSTOMERS JEEP THAT THEY CAN'T SEEM TO GET RUNNING RIGHT DURING A SWAP. IF YOU DO CALL BECAUSE YOU NEED HELP THAT BADLY, BE PREPARED TO PAY FOR MY TIME AND SERVICE. I WILL WARN YOU HOWEVER, THAT I AM NOT CHEAP.

Here is a few pictures...

p1060058.jpg   p1060059.jpg   p1060060.jpg   p1060061.jpg   p1060062.jpg  

__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!

Last edited by cevans87; 10-13-2010 at 05:35 PM.. Reason: missed
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Unread 10-13-2010, 05:49 PM   #2
Douglas S.
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1991  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 2,645
Good luck, I recommend you also swap on a 4.0 HO head. I did the same thing as you and swapped on a Weber before deciding to go FI, the carb just didn't cut it for me.
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1987 YJ Laredo
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Unread 10-13-2010, 08:16 PM   #3
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
Guys, Guys, Guys... ok hold your horses here... I'm experienced in this, this first post was just skimming the water, once I start I will included detailed directions on everything, this is not my first walk around the block, and I wouldn't use anything but a HO head, and as far as the CPS goes, I have used the Hesco kit, and like it but, the ax-15 is already setup for the CPS and all I need to do is switch from the renix flywheel which is installed on the 4.2L to and OBD 1 flywheel, and yes it does matter because the computer using a "sensing ring" to determine where to crank is during revolution rotation, but yall are jumping the gun on me and going to confuse people interested in doing this swap, so I kindly ask you to delete your posts and wait untill the story unfolds itself as I stated in my original post, everything will come in due time, and this is going to be one of the best threads about this swap if not the best... I plan on covering everything in great detail
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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-14-2010, 04:06 AM   #4
RookieJeeper01
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Everett Wa
Posts: 115
I performed the same MPI swap and love it no more 10 minutes to warm up, loads of power and way better MPG.

Awsome guages. That is my next project, but I went with VDO vision guages. They are not as cool as the phantoms, but the price was right about 50% cheaper. Good Luck, were waiting to follow your build.
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Unread 10-14-2010, 07:30 PM   #5
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
OK here's the wiring diagrams for the bulkhead connectors, and the ecm pinout
xj-bulkhead.jpg   xj-ecm.jpg   yj-engine-side-bulkhead-harness.jpg  
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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-16-2010, 09:23 AM   #6
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
Ok, The Swap offically started last night, and because I'm replacing the flywheel, I had to drop the motor out, needed to be cleaned anyway, also the JB Weld I got was only enough to fill 10 of the 12 holes, so I will be picking up some more in a bit. There are 2 bolts on the top of the transmission that bolt to the engine, just FYI 3/8 12 point, nothing else, or you will strip them out like the previous owner has done, so looks like i will be packing up the oxysetaline cutter and taking that with me today also. I have been taking pictures and will be loading them up within the next day or two, only thing I dont have so far is the fuel pump, which I will be getting from Advance Auto, it comes as a whole assembly, the hanger, the sending unit, and the pump and strainer, and it's $30 more than just the pump, will be here in a few days, once I get that everything else should already be done, and should fire right up ! Also you can go one of two ways with this, you can convert your system over to all 4.0 components ie. steering pump, alt, and a/c, or you can leave your existing setup and just wire in the new wiring harness for only the fuel injection part, it's a little easier just to leave what you already have in the vehicle alone, and just wire up the new fuel injection, that away you still have all your gauges, and you don't have to mess with anything in the cab or under the dash. just food for thought, I only hope to guide you in your swap, but if you feel you want to do something other than what I am doing go ahead.
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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-17-2010, 04:38 PM   #7
Zorm
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1983 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 412
cevans87, I will be doing the same thing on my 83 Cherokee. I have thought about just installing the complete 91 4.0 I have but that would mean getting its head redone. I already have the modified 4.0 head on my 285 along with a HEI dizzy and a 2100 carb. I want to keep my T176 so I will be going with the hesco CPS relocator. Right now I am trying to find the diagram of the bulkhead connector that have you have above but for the 83 cherokee since I have the complete little cherokee wire harness. That and getting the hybread speed sensor I should be good to go. Oh yea, I also have a 2000 intake along with its injectors. I'll be folowing your write up closley.
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Unread 10-17-2010, 09:33 PM   #8
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
Zorm, not a problem man, I will get that diagram on here in a day or so, i have all the SJ diagrams you could dream of, if you already have the modifed head, then your pretty much done, except for the wiring, i would however suggest not getting the hesco kit, it works well, but if it ever gets hit (because it's on the front bottom of the motor, your screwed untill your readjust it and tighten it down, a new flywheel is 70 bucks, and takes no time to put on... but it's whatever you want to do, junk the 2000 injectors and get some from a 91-95, because the 2000 model year injectors require more psi from the pump to operate good, and that pump is expensive, i've listed all the injector information near the top of this thread in all the specifation info, the 96+ motors have a fuel pump that pushes 49.5 psi, and the 91-95 pumps push 39.5 psi... if you need more information and would like to contact me (434) 582-0148... it's easier to explain stuff over the phone...


EVERYONE ELSE....

well it's been a long weekend, I will say that who ever decided to put star bolts on the top of the transmission needs to be shot, i got down there and the oxycetaline gun would not work worth a crap, it would not speed blow oxygen, i spent 2 hours dismantling that gun and cleaning it, only to not have it work again...

SO... a have a chunk of bellhousing missing, but i'm not to worried about it

Also had a nice surprise when I took the old head off, the push rod ends where the seat in the rockers were all cracked and chiped, so a quick run to the parts store cured all that...

I have the motor reassembled with the new flywheel, new head, new intake, new exhaust manifold, new distributor, and have it setting in the engine bay going to hook the tranny up to it tommrow, and get everything bolted down, then start on the wiring tuesday hopefully if nothing else pops up....

A little information

The flywheel on both the 4.2 and the 4.0 have offset bolts, and will only go on, one way... so don't worry about getting the flywheel positioned a certain way for the sensor, because it will only bolt on one way... I PROMISE


Specifications
Torque
A/C Compressor Bracket to Engine Bolts
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
A/C Compressor Mounting Bolts
27 NĚ m
20 ft. lbs.
A/C Low Pressure Service Valve Nut
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Block Heater Nut
2 NĚ m
16 in. lbs.
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
68 NĚ m
50 ft. lbs.
Camshaft Thrust Plate to Cylinder Block Screws
24 NĚ m
18 ft. lbs.
Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts
54 NĚ m
40 ft. lbs.
Coil Bracket to Block Bolts
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Connecting Rod Nuts
45 NĚ m
33 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Block Drain Plugs
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.

Cylinder Head Bolts tighten all bolts to 22ft lbs, then 45ft lbs, then 110ft lbs on all except number 11, which is the front bolt on the intake side, then tighten number 11 bolt to 100 ft lbs


Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
10 NĚ m
85 in. lbs.
Distributer Clamp Bolt
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Bracket Bolts
61 NĚ m
45 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bolts/Nuts
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs

DescriptionTorque
A/C Compressor Bracket to Engine Bolts
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
A/C Compressor Mounting Bolts
27 NĚ m
20 ft. lbs.
A/C Low Pressure Service Valve Nut
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Block Heater Nut
2 NĚ m
16 in. lbs.
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
68 NĚ m
50 ft. lbs.
Camshaft Thrust Plate to Cylinder Block Screws
24 NĚ m
18 ft. lbs.
Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts
54 NĚ m
40 ft. lbs.
Coil Bracket to Block Bolts
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Connecting Rod Nuts
45 NĚ m
33 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Block Drain Plugs
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolts
135 NĚ m
100 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
10 NĚ m
85 in. lbs.
Distributer Clamp Bolt
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Bracket Bolts
61 NĚ m
45 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bolts/Nuts
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bracket Bolts
54 NĚ m
40 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bracket Stud Nuts
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Thru-Bolt
65 NĚ m
48 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Crossmember-to-Sill Bolts (Automatic)
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Insulator Stud Assembly Nut
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Support Cushion/Crossmember Nuts
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Support Cushion/Bracket Nuts (Manual)
75 NĚ m
55 ft. lbs.
Transmission Support Bracket Bolt (Manual)
46 NĚ m
34 ft. lbs.
Transmission Support Bracket/Cushion Bolt (4WD Auto)
75 NĚ m
55 ft. lbs.
Transmission Support Adapter Bracket Bolts (2WD Auto)
75 NĚ m
55 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Manifold/Pipe Nuts
27 NĚ m
20 ft. lbs.
Flywheel to Converter Housing Bolts
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts
143 NĚ m
105 ft. lbs.
Front Cover-to-Block Bolts ╝-20
7 NĚ m
60 in. lbs.
Front Cover-to-Block Bolts 5/16-18
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Fuel Rail Bolts/Stud
12 NĚ m
108 in. lbs.
Generator Fixed Bolt
24 NĚ m
18 ft. lbs.
Generator Thru Bolt/Nut
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Cap Bolts
108 NĚ m
80 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Brace Nuts
47 NĚ m
35 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter
18 NĚ m
156 in. lbs.
Oil Filter Connector (to adapter)
47 NĚ m
35 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter Connector (to block)
68 NĚ m
50 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter Adapter Bolts
102 NĚ m
75 ft lbs
Oil Galley Plug
41 NĚ m30 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan ╝-20 Bolts
9.5 NĚ m
84 in. lbs.
Oil Pan 5/16-18 Bolts
15 NĚ m
132 in. lbs.
Oil Pan Drain Plug
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
Oil Pump Short Attaching Bolts
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Oil Pump Long Attaching Bolts
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Oil Pump Cover Bolts
8 NĚ m
70 in. lbs.
Power Steering Pump Pressure Hose Nut
52 NĚ m
38 ft. lbs.
Rocker Arm Assembly-to-Cylinder Head Capscrews
30 NĚ m
21 ft. lbs.
Spark Plugs
37 NĚ m
27 ft. lbs.
Starter Motor Mounting Bolts
45 NĚ m
33 ft. lbs.
Thermostat Housing Bolts
18 NĚ m
156 in. lbs.
Throttle Body Bolts
10 NĚ m
90 in. lbs.
Vibration Damper Bolts
108 NĚ m
80 ft. lbs.
Water Pump/Block Bolts
23 NĚ m
17 ft. lbs.

DescriptionTorque
A/C Compressor Bracket to Engine Bolts
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
A/C Compressor Mounting Bolts
27 NĚ m
20 ft. lbs.
A/C Low Pressure Service Valve Nut
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Block Heater Nut
2 NĚ m
16 in. lbs.
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
68 NĚ m
50 ft. lbs.
Camshaft Thrust Plate to Cylinder Block Screws
24 NĚ m
18 ft. lbs.
Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts
54 NĚ m
40 ft. lbs.
Coil Bracket to Block Bolts
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Connecting Rod Nuts
45 NĚ m
33 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Block Drain Plugs
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolts
135 NĚ m
100 ft. lbs.
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
10 NĚ m
85 in. lbs.
Distributer Clamp Bolt
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Bracket Bolts
61 NĚ m
45 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bolts/Nuts
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bracket Bolts
54 NĚ m
40 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Bracket Stud Nuts
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Front Support Cushion Thru-Bolt
65 NĚ m
48 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Crossmember-to-Sill Bolts (Automatic)
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Insulator Stud Assembly Nut
41 NĚ m
30 ft. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Support Cushion/Crossmember Nuts
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Engine Mounts - Rear Support Cushion/Bracket Nuts (Manual)
75 NĚ m
55 ft. lbs.
Transmission Support Bracket Bolt (Manual)
46 NĚ m
34 ft. lbs.
Transmission Support Bracket/Cushion Bolt (4WD Auto)
75 NĚ m
55 ft. lbs.
Transmission Support Adapter Bracket Bolts (2WD Auto)
75 NĚ m
55 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Manifold/Pipe Nuts
27 NĚ m
20 ft. lbs.
Flywheel to Converter Housing Bolts
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts
143 NĚ m
105 ft. lbs.
Front Cover-to-Block Bolts ╝-20
7 NĚ m
60 in. lbs.
Front Cover-to-Block Bolts 5/16-18
22 NĚ m
192 in. lbs.
Fuel Rail Bolts/Stud
12 NĚ m
108 in. lbs.
Generator Fixed Bolt
24 NĚ m
18 ft. lbs.
Generator Thru Bolt/Nut
38 NĚ m
28 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Cap Bolts
108 NĚ m
80 ft. lbs.
Main Bearing Brace Nuts
47 NĚ m
35 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter
18 NĚ m
156 in. lbs.
Oil Filter Connector (to adapter)
47 NĚ m
35 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter Connector (to block)
68 NĚ m
50 ft. lbs.
Oil Filter Adapter Bolts
102 NĚ m
75 ft lbs
Oil Galley Plug
41 NĚ m30 ft. lbs.
Oil Pan ╝-20 Bolts
9.5 NĚ m
84 in. lbs.
Oil Pan 5/16-18 Bolts
15 NĚ m
132 in. lbs.
Oil Pan Drain Plug
34 NĚ m
25 ft. lbs.
Oil Pump Short Attaching Bolts
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Oil Pump Long Attaching Bolts
23 NĚ m
204 in. lbs.
Oil Pump Cover Bolts
8 NĚ m
70 in. lbs.
Power Steering Pump Pressure Hose Nut
52 NĚ m
38 ft. lbs.
Rocker Arm Assembly-to-Cylinder Head Capscrews
30 NĚ m
21 ft. lbs.
Spark Plugs
37 NĚ m
27 ft. lbs.
Starter Motor Mounting Bolts
45 NĚ m
33 ft. lbs.
Thermostat Housing Bolts
18 NĚ m
156 in. lbs.
Throttle Body Bolts
10 NĚ m
90 in. lbs.
Vibration Damper Bolts
108 NĚ m
80 ft. lbs.
Water Pump/Block Bolts
23 NĚ m
17 ft. lbs.



FOR THIS CONVERSION , YOU WILL REUSE YOUR PUSHRODS...
YOU WILL ALSO REUSE YOUR HEAD BOLTS, UNLESS YOU REALLY WANT A NEW SET... THEIR AROUND $20 FOR THE SET AT THE DEALER

Will try to get pictures uploaded within a day or so, along with sstep by step details
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-17-2010, 10:16 PM   #9
Zorm
Registered User
1983 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 412
Holy cow, ton of info your puttn' out there.

I would go for the CPS in the stock location but I think I might have a problem with the starter. I was planing on just sending the T176 bell housing to Novak adapters, have them machine the spot for the CPS,(Novac wants about $109.00 to do this, Hesco kit = $289.00) get the 4.0 flywheel and slap everything on, then I found out that the T176 starter may have too much "throw out" for the 4.0 flywheel due to the ring gear for the CPS sensor.

I'll call ya with more questions, thought I would post this one since it may help someone.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 04:43 AM   #10
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
Zorm the ring gear is recessed and smaller in diameter than the flywheel so you dont have to worry about the throw issue and the teeth count are the same between 4.2 and 4.0, think about getting rid of the t176 and outsourcing a ax15, newer and better gearing and a little stronger, the dana 300 will pair to it with a clocking ring. And i know its a lot of info but i want this to be the best thread on the fuel injection swap
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Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-18-2010, 09:42 AM   #11
Tshark299
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorm View Post
then I found out that the T176 starter may have too much "throw out" for the 4.0 flywheel due to the ring gear for the CPS sensor.
If it does, try using the '88-'98 Mitsubishi-style starter that came on 4.0s and 4.2s from those years. It should have the proper throw for a CPS flywheel.

Here is the '81-'87 non-CPS starter (Ford-style) in its resting position:



This is the '88-'98 CPS starter (Mitsubishi-style) in its resting position:



You can see how the gear on the later starter starts much farther back and does not protrude as far to compensate for the later flywheel's ring gear being closer because of the CPS tone ring.
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'87 YJ Laredo - 4.0L, AX-15, NP231, 4.10s: 3.5" BDS, 31" Muds

'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parted out the rest

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 10-18-2010, 11:01 AM   #12
Zorm
Registered User
1983 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 412
ahh, thanks Tshark299 good point, cevans87, do you agree? I love work arounds
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Unread 10-18-2010, 08:12 PM   #13
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
yes, i do agree, but the "sensing ring" will not be the issue the actual throw of the starter will shoot past the flywheel, but you will not hit anything like someone had told you before
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-18-2010, 08:18 PM   #14
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
To zorm

Zorm, these are diagrams of the bulkhead connector engine side and lights side, and the bulkhead connector for the body side... hope this is what you were looking for

THESE ONLY APPLY TO ZORMS PROJECT FOR HIS EARLY MODEL CHEROKEE
sj1_0001.jpg   sj1_0002.jpg   sj1_0003.jpg  
__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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Unread 10-18-2010, 08:46 PM   #15
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 412
ok here is some pictures of the new head with the packing peanuts, new head with jb kwik weld over the freeze plugs, motor out of the hole, the old style renix flywheel and E12 bolt that would not come out
rtbrtb.jpg   photo.jpg   p1060070.jpg   p1060071.jpg   p1060073.jpg  

__________________
Built Not Bought #447, 1992 Jeep XJ Supercharged 4.7, 1988 Jeep YJ Auto 4.2L, 2008 Commander Limited HEMI, 1990 Jeep YJ 4.7L Fuel Injected AW4, 1981 Scrambler 304 Auto

I Am The Jeep Surgeon!!!
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