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Unread 09-30-2013, 12:45 PM   #121
lbsickboy
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ok thanks ive was thinking of replacing the regulator with the one out of the xj as kept that one just to be on the safe side
so ill change that one out tomorrow and hope that solves the problem.

the back lights are red so ill have to look into that to but i still cant understand why they stay on even when i take the key out of the ignition they are still on,
when i disconnect the battery then they go off.
and then put the key back in the ignition no lights but if i turn the key as if i want to start the jeep then they come on again

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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 09-30-2013, 12:50 PM   #122
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post
ok thanks ive was thinking of replacing the regulator with the one out of the xj as kept that one just to be on the safe side
so ill change that one out tomorrow and hope that solves the problem.

the back lights are red so ill have to look into that to but i still cant understand why they stay on even when i take the key out of the ignition they are still on,
when i disconnect the battery then they go off.
and then put the key back in the ignition no lights but if i turn the key as if i want to start the jeep then they come on again
I'm not sure what's going on with the lights. The fact that they don't come on until you turn the key is strange. The brake lights should work all the time, even without the key.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 08:08 AM   #123
lbsickboy
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Hi slo well fule pump problem is solved, it turned out to be the pressure regulator that i had got out of the US.
Any way so i turned the key and fingers crossed hoping it would start, with no successes at all.
the only way it will start is if i poor fuel direct into the throttle body.
Also not to for get ive got the green wire from the YJ directly connected to the starter motor that's the only way the motor will turn over.

using the other wires on the xj harness don't do anything if i connect them to the green wire

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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-01-2013, 10:34 AM   #124
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post
Its alive

i took the immelizer out of the cherokee and wired it up to the yj and the jeep burst into life.
the strange this is it didnt need the key or anything els, which made me happy as larrry.
but i should mention that i had to buy pass the starter relay i hooked up a wire direct from the starter motor and the wired that to the G5 green wire start relay crank.
yellow D5 that is connected to the blue/white wire
Red D4 connected to the black/pink wire
Red E4 connected to the red/black wire as SLO had suggested.

and the best was to come the wires of the skim key came disconnected and the jeep still would start so i thought i would try disconnect all the wires on the skim connector and the jeep still jumped into life.
When you said here that the engine jumped to life, how was it getting fuel? was there a temporary fuel pump hooked up somewhere? Or were you pouring fuel in the throttle body? I'm wondering if there is an issue with the fuel injectors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post
ok i couldnt wait lol,
thanks for the info SLO
so i went a head with wiring the orange wire op to the green white wire what i have done, i moved the orange wire pin A6 to B4,
the reason why is because pin A6 is not used at all on my set up.
When i turnded the key to prime the fuel pump it kicked in just like it did on the cherokee
The way you wired it, I think you bypassed the computer. When you turned the key and the fuel pump primed, did it stay on as long as you had the key turned, or did it go for a couple seconds then shut off? It should shut off after a couple seconds if the engine is not running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post
Any way so i turned the key and fingers crossed hoping it would start, with no successes at all.
the only way it will start is if i poor fuel direct into the throttle body.
So, you know it's getting spark. If you keep a steady stream of fuel pouring into the throttle body, will it keep running?

Have you checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? There should be a Schrader valve on the rail with the injectors where you can check pressure. The '96-'99 engines need around 50psi (340 kPa).

Also, have you checked for power to the injectors? There are two contacts for each injector. One should be constant 12V when the key is on. These are all spliced together, and to the coil(+). The other is a switched ground that is controlled by the ECU.

I assume that the injectors function properly, as you said the engine ran in the XJ before you pulled it.

Quote:
Also not to for get ive got the green wire from the YJ directly connected to the starter motor that's the only way the motor will turn over.

using the other wires on the xj harness don't do anything if i connect them to the green wire
The starter circuit is completely separate from the rest of the electrical system. If it's working for now, there is no need to mess with it.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 11:09 AM   #125
lbsickboy
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Quote:
When you said here that the engine jumped to life, how was it getting fuel? was there a temporary fuel pump hooked up somewhere? Or were you pouring fuel in the throttle body? I'm wondering if there is an issue with the fuel injectors?

yes i was pouring petrol into the throttle body.




Quote:
The way you wired it, I think you bypassed the computer. When you turned the key and the fuel pump primed, did it stay on as long as you had the key turned, or did it go for a couple seconds then shut off? It should shut off after a couple seconds if the engine is not running.

when i turn the key i can hear the pump priming comes on for 2 secods or so then i dont hear it anymore so im if that's what you mean buy shuting off.




Quote:
So, you know it's getting spark. If you keep a steady stream of fuel pouring into the throttle body, will it keep running?

Im not to sure on that one i will check it tonight.




Quote:
Have you checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? There should be a Schrader valve on the rail with the injectors where you can check pressure. The '96-'99 engines need around 50psi (340 kPa).

i have cheked the fuel lineat the fuel rail, when i went to release the pressure it came shooting out so i dont think that is the problem.




Quote:
Also, have you checked for power to the injectors? There are two contacts for each injector. One should be constant 12V when the key is on. These are all spliced together, and to the coil(+). The other is a switched ground that is controlled by the ECU.

ill check that to.




Quote:
I assume that the injectors function properly, as you said the engine ran in the XJ before you pulled it.

Yes the engine was running just fine.
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:09 PM   #126
lbsickboy
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ok just checked to see if the motor will keep running if i pour fuel into the throttle body that worked fine.
on to further investigation, i pulled the connector of one of the fuel injectors to check if i have power there, i connected the multimeter op to chassis and placed the plus wire from the multimeter to the power on the fuel injector with the motor turning over, i got 12v.

Then i also checked injector by placing the plus and ground on the connector with the motor turning over to see if i was getting power and there was nothing at all no pulse what so ever
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:30 PM   #127
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post

Then i also checked injector by placing the plus and ground on the connector with the motor turning over to see if i was getting power and there was nothing at all no pulse what so ever
I don't understand what you did here...

If you are trying to see a pulse in voltage between the terminals of the injector connector with a digital voltmeter, it is probably happening too fast for the meter to display. You can put a small 12V test light across the terminals of the injector connector. It should flash while cranking the engine.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:37 PM   #128
lbsickboy
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Quote :
I don't understand what you did here...

i thought i could get a reading from the voltmeter. py placing the both ends + - on the connector.

If you are trying to see a pulse in voltage between the terminals of the injector connector with a digital voltmeter, it is probably happening too fast for the meter to display. You can put a small 12V test light across the terminals of the injector connector. It should flash while cranking the engine

ok ill do that tomorrow its dark as hell out side, i was also thinking of taking out one of the injectors to see if it will squirt fuel out.
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-01-2013, 03:25 PM   #129
lbsickboy
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oh just one more thing i wired up the fuel sender gauge wires from tank into the yj wire, that's the blue /green wire from the xj, to the tan wire on the yj and the brown/yellow wire to ground and still the YJ gauge goes to full tank
I used the voltmeter to check what ohm i got, turned out 74 not with a full tank i think half a tank.

Have you got any other suggestions ?
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-02-2013, 08:31 AM   #130
lbsickboy
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Hi i give up, now the motor will not even start when i pour fuel into the throttle body,
i als checked the fuel injectors and they don't squirt any fuel neither, i placed a 12v lamp like you said on the connector but got nothing.

all i want to do is enjoy my jeep but this is getting beyond a joke now

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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-02-2013, 10:10 AM   #131
SLO_Ken
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You said you are getting 12V at one side of the fuel injector connectors, but the injectors do not squirt and a test light across the injector connectors does not blink, correct? This implies that there is a problem either with the wiring between the injectors and the computer, or a problem with the computer itself.

Are you sure the computer is getting power? And is it grounded? At the ECU connectors, pin A2 should have 12V during run/start, pin A22 should have constant batt 12V, pins A31 and A32 should be grounded.


Also, the immobilizer works by triggering the computer to de-energize the ASD relay in the PDC. The ASD relay provides power to the fuel pump relay, the ignition coil, and the fuel injectors. If you go back and check voltage at the coil or injectors again, and there is nothing, I'd suspect either the fuses in the PDC (fuse 19 and 21), the ASD relay, or the immobilizer/computer.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 11:03 AM   #132
lbsickboy
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QUOTE:
You said you are getting 12V at one side of the fuel injector connectors, but the injectors do not squirt and a test light across the injector connectors does not blink, correct? This implies that there is a problem either with the wiring between the injectors and the computer, or a problem with the computer itself.

YES

QUOTE:
Are you sure the computer is getting power? And is it grounded? At the ECU connectors, pin A2 should have 12V during run/start, pin A22 should have constant batt 12V, pins A31 and A32 should be grounded.

ive just checked that and all is good.


QUTOE:
Also, the immobilizer works by triggering the computer to de-energize the ASD relay in the PDC. The ASD relay provides power to the fuel pump relay, the ignition coil, and the fuel injectors. If you go back and check voltage at the coil or injectors again, and there is nothing, I'd suspect either the fuses in the PDC (fuse 19 and 21), the ASD relay, or the immobilizer/computer.

Ive checked the the fuses at the pdc they are all in tact.

ive also got a black/tan wire on the C100 connector should that go to ground ?

also i have a green/orange wire f15 on the C100 connector and tats the same as the plus at the injectors do i need to connect that ?

and the immobilizer the wires blue/gray + and green/black ground just connect them up and what to do with the key?
post 88 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...05/index6.html
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
4,5 " ROUGH COUNTRY LIFT KIT, 1.5" BOOMERANG SHACKLES, 33'' BANDEN, ROUGH COUNTRY DUAL STEERING STABILIZER
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Unread 10-02-2013, 11:23 AM   #133
lbsickboy
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.................................................. .........................XJ....................... .YJ
This what i have connected at the moment
.................................................. ........... DARK GREEN/WHITE
.................................................. ...............FUEL PUMP................B4

.................................................. ............BY PASS DIRECT TO
.................................................. ............START MOTOR ..............G5

.................................................. ............RED/BLACK...................E4

.................................................. ............BLACK PINK...................D4

.................................................. ............BLUE/WHITE..................D5

And of course all the black wire for ground
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
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Unread 10-02-2013, 04:06 PM   #134
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post

ive also got a black/tan wire on the C100 connector should that go to ground ?

also i have a green/orange wire f15 on the C100 connector and tats the same as the plus at the injectors do i need to connect that ?

and the immobilizer the wires blue/gray + and green/black ground just connect them up and what to do with the key?
post 88 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...05/index6.html
yes, bk/tn (A7 on C100) should go to ground.

If you have a wire at C100 that is directly connected to the injector (+), something is wrong. That circuit (A142) does not go through C100 at all.

The wiring for the immobilizer is in post 93
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...l#post15947073

The loop on the immobilizer is an antenna. There is a chip in the head of the XJ key that the immobilizer looks for before sending the command to the computer that all is well.

Some people have tried permanently attaching the SKIM key in the column near the antenna so they can use standard (non SKIM) keys as spares.
As long as the chip is close to the antenna (within a few cm) it should work.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 09:27 AM   #135
lbsickboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbsickboy View Post
Hi slo well fule pump problem is solved, it turned out to be the pressure regulator that i had got out of the US.
Any way so i turned the key and fingers crossed hoping it would start, with no successes at all.
the only way it will start is if i poor fuel direct into the throttle body.
Also not to for get ive got the green wire from the YJ directly connected to the starter motor that's the only way the motor will turn over.

using the other wires on the xj harness don't do anything if i connect them to the green wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLO_Ken View Post
yes, bk/tn (A7 on C100) should go to ground.

If you have a wire at C100 that is directly connected to the injector (+), something is wrong. That circuit (A142) does not go through C100 at all.

The wiring for the immobilizer is in post 93
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...l#post15947073

The loop on the immobilizer is an antenna. There is a chip in the head of the XJ key that the immobilizer looks for before sending the command to the computer that all is well.

Some people have tried permanently attaching the SKIM key in the column near the antenna so they can use standard (non SKIM) keys as spares.
As long as the chip is close to the antenna (within a few cm) it should work.
Hi Slo

its alive and working like it should.:cheers 2:

turned out that i didnt connect the white/black wire on the immobilizer to the right wire,its connected to the yj green crank start wire g5.
i should also mention that the data link is also needed to start the engine, why i im not sure but if i disconnect the data link it will not start.
so now i have a lot of wires to tidy up,
Then ill will most probably need you help again for the rest of the wires like the back up lights and so on.

PS, is there anything i can get you as to show my appreciation for being a top sport and so helpful ??
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WANGLER 87 4.0 HO AW4
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